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Discussion Starter #1
I know I have had an issue for a while but just been busy. I drive the truck weekly but seems like the power is dropping and when I lost to a truck I normally beat it's time to solve the issue. The transmission is definitely going, wines all the time now and if I go full throttle at low speed it slips and hit rev limiter. New built trans on the list in the next few weeks unless it dies sooner, hopefully close to home.

Now for the real issue, I rebuilt the engine about 8-9 months ago, was a crank no start when done. Troubleshot it down to new HP HPOP, sent it in to have tested and failed so they reluctantly sent me another one, started up first try and been running ever since. My tunes are from Eric and I have been sending him the data attached, we can't get it where it should be because of the ICP volts, don't bother looking at the ICP psi because they are false numbers due to the tune to trick the PCM into raising IPR % which it is doing. Eric says I need to solve the ICP V before he can get it right.

I have replace the ICP and IPR, both OEM, no change and no debris. I installed LP oil gauge and stays above 70 psi when at WOT. Custom fuel system never drops below 68 psi. Sometimes hot or cold starts right up and sometimes cranks for a while, no consistency to it. But always starts and runs. I have new pigtails for ICP and IPR and will put them on in the morning and see if it makes any difference. But I really think I have another marginal HPOP. I don't really want to deal with the company again because I don't think the testing, diagnosis or replacement was on the up and up, I also don't want to buy another HPOP.

Any ideas, suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I love my truck but want to be done and just have fun with her until I break something new.
 

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I think either a leak in the high pressure oil system or a failing HPOP -- consider also the intake screen for the HPOP, below the oil cooler
if the HPOP cant get oil, then the pressure(volts) will be low -- especially at high demand

A loose terminal on the IPR could cause the valve not to close as much as needed -- since the monitor reading is just a 'commanded' percentage
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will replace both pigtails in the morning. I went ahead and ordered new Ford ICP and IPR. I will do air test tomorrow just to see. Everything is new in the motor. I replaced dummy plugs and stand pipes even though I already had the updated ones. Rebuilt the oil rails and new injectors. I did all that so I wouldn't have a problem now.
 
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Solder the connections or at least if you use butt splices ..do a good job
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Definitely solder and heat shrink, only way to do automotive wiring. Would be surprised how many people twist and electrical tape connections and wander why they have issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well replace icp and ipr pigtails, soldered and heat shrinked. KOEO .2 on icp v, cranking 1.1 on icp v and 84% ipr. Attached are 4 pulls back to back. #1 coolant and eot were both around 150, subsequent pulls were between 180-190. LP oil hot at idle is 28-31, driving is 60, full throttle is above 80. I did not do air test, figured I would wait until changing the IPR. Hotter thinner oil finding a leak? bypassing hpop internally? bypassing ipr? first pull felt great. If you look at map and subtract baseline of around 14, I don't know why I'm only getting 28 psi boost, plenty of fuel because blowing black smoke. I took icp psi out because not real anyway. I'm at a loss, I'm still leaning towards the hpop with the first one being DOA and not a good experience with replacing. I'm also running T6 full synthetic and archoil additive, could that be making the oil too thin, should I go back to motorcraft since everything is new or at least take the archoil out. Before rebuild injectors were sticking and wouldn't run without it, I knew when it was breaking down cause truck would start running rough, do an oil change and all good. Any ideas? I'll change icp and ipr when they come in next week along with oil, will also perform air test at same time. I did air test when diagnosing no start after rebuild and hears tons of air in valley, leaking straight through the pump, did air test when I installed new pump and didn't hear anything at that time.
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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T6 Rotella oil is a 40 weight ... it is not "thin".

What brand HPOP did you put in it?

I have a hard time believing that the HPOP went bad multiple times on an 06 model year.
 

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Definitely ICPv(= pressure) is 'backing off' with each run

Would indicate(at first glance) a leaking high pressure system or the pumps inability to make pressure

I am curious about the vRef voltage being sent to the sensor -- is it solid at 5.0 volts?
low voltage to the sensor would cause a low output

There is a reference voltage sent to the IPR as well (12.0 volts) -- curious if it is solid
Since the PCM supplies the ground (Pulse Width Modulated) and the reading is only what is "commanded"
curious if the actual voltages at the IPR are reflecting what the PCM is commanding

Looking at the charts, the IPR value seems to be increased, meaning the PCM wants more oil pressure -- but the ICPv is low, meaning the pressure is not there
with the IPR% in the 90's(IPR closed) -- I should think the ICPv would be at or near vRef -- 5.0 volts

I hope this isn't too "rambly" as it does not draw a conclusion -- only more testing
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bismic, I would rather not say yet who's hpop it is until deemed good/bad, I don't want to bring any undue negativity to the brand. I didn't really think anything was wrong with the oil either just a friend of mine does not like synthetic and prefers to stay with oem. I to think it would be odd to have a second poor hpop, although data from first post is right after installing second hpop and right out of the box poor numbers.

Hydro, volts across the system, battery, ficm logic, ficm input and alternator stay at or above 13.5v. How would you suggest I monitor input v at each sensor? None of my meter leads are long enough to go from engine bay to cab. I can check at idle supplied v to icp should be a constant 5v, ipr would be more difficult. What would cause varying voltage to the sensors?

Next week will be air test and both sensor replacements, if there is no air leak or leak through the filter I will have to presume the hpop is bad. At that point I will buy a different brand and then begin dealing with the original company to resolve the issue. But I'm hoping new ipr and icp will fix the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Today is the first time I have seen anything over 4v since the rebuild, before I didn't monitor it. I started talking with Eric right after getting the truck running to get tunes updated, he modified a little but urged to get hpo/icp v up before he would finish. I replaced icp and ipr back then so doing it again is the definition of insanity but I really don't want it to be the hpop. I will do the air test this weekend before the sensors arrive. I work out of town but plan to come home a couple times this week, if I get time will do it sooner. That should be the definitive test.
 

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IMO, it would be much better to troubleshoot with everything back to stock tuning.

The reason for asking about the supplier for the HPOP is to help in troubleshooting. Maybe people here have some experience w/ various poor performing HPOP's. Your call though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I lost original factory tune when first act touch died with tune on it a year ago and no one including sct supported it anymore. So I had sct build me a new factory tune, will it run the engine the way it is now? Eric told me the tunes trick the pcm by altering the ICP v coming in to show lower pressure so it will demand higher IPR. I have a gauge hardwired into circuit which I should have mentioned earlier. Hot idle running 350 psi, wot 3500-4000.
 

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4000 psi is max output. You do not want or need more than that IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finished air test. Applied 120 psi and shut valve, pressure started dropping immediately, but could not hear any air. Left valve open with 135 psi applied for well over an hour, shut valve and still drops but can hear gurgling from oil filter housing, nothing from oil fill on passenger valve cover or crankcase vent on driver valve cover. Not a big leak because air compressor only came on once and it is only a 4 or 5 gallon tank. But definitely a leak, coming from oil filter housing that points to hpop????
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I let the compressor cycle again with valve open and get system up to 140 psi and closed valve and now it is holding, I will check it again in a few minutes and see if it drops.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The ipr screen was clean, no debris of any king, screen was in like new condition since it is only a couple months old it should be.
 

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IMO, it is your HPOP w/ gurgling at the oil filter housing. Pretty much the definitive test. Personally, I would be looking at another brand of pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Plan to order adrenaline tomorrow with your confirmation, I've suspected the whole time. I need to find an independent shop to test the hpop I take off before contacting manufacturer for replacement or refund. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Plant to order adrenaline hpop tomorrow, your confirmation along with me already suspecting it made my mind up. I need to find a 3rd party shop to test the current hpop before I contact manufacturer to get a replacement or refund.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Since the IPR screen was in perfect condition and nothing was on the screen, I would think the oil cooler screen is in good condition. I have a new one but I really don't want to pull the intake to change.
 
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