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Discussion Starter #1
Seems like a loss of Boost/Power happened within the last three weeks. My 97 has 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, with diy cold air intake and TS chip with just over 240,000 miles. This setup has been running great for the last three years, but lately it's been doggin.

Boost develops slower than usual and peaks about 12-15, usually WOT would get 22 psi and black smoke. Pulled the horse trailer up a two mile pass and couldn't get into fourth gear. And no black smoke...Normally I could hit fifth(manual) watching the EGT's, and pouring black smoke at the top end.

Just fixed the fuel leak at shut-off. Valley is dry afterwards. The fuel filter is replaced, though the fuel bowl looks a little dirty. Engine components are all original. Checked the turbo, vanes show a little wear but not rounded off, and the wheel turns fine.

I checked the manifold to up pipes for leaks, tightened the drivers side that showed a little soot, passenger side showed no soot. Didn't really see any soot around the turbo y pipe.

Sprayed pb blastser on the bolts from the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve housing and will try to take that off to check to see if the butterfly valve is opening all the way.

I know I need to get it on the right scanner. Oreilly's scanner did not show any codes this morning. Any ideas? Thanks ahead for your time. Michael
 

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Next I'd pull and clean the IPR screen and also check for boost leaks. Also check your fuel pressure.

Will the scanner at OReilleys even connect to your truck? The small handhelds won't connect to my 97.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Gaius for the reply.

Where is the IPR screen? Thought I would do the following order.


1. Clean/check IPR screen.
2. Clean and rebuild of my fuel bowl, replacing lines and seals.
3. Check fuel pressure, assume I need a fuel pressure guage will search for a how to thread.
4. Order AE scan tool.
5. Check for boost leaks, no soot visible will look into pressurizing system and spraying with soapy water.

Included a couple pics of turbo & fuel bowl. As stated compression wheel turns freely.

Could worn-out injectors be responsible for low boost?


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I'm thinking he meant FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) screen vice IPR. Note that on 96/97 there is the "usual" screen at the FPR-to-Bowl joint AND a mesh-type screen under a circlip-retained plate where the fuel line comes into the bottom of the FPR. Check/clean both (don't know how hard or effective cleaning the mesh screen is). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
IPR vs FPR

Thanks Patrick, note to self on the FPR...ordered the AE scan software from Riffraff....
 

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Whoops, fat finger. Yup, fuel regulator screen. Should only take 5-10 minutes and they are usually pretty full.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Removed the FPR and found the screen totally clogged. It's surprising any fuel passed through. Now how does the circlip-retained plate come apart, it looks simple enough I just don't want to break something trying to disassemble?
 

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Remove the circlip and the plate. The mesh will be under it (really straightforward ... snapring pliers are a help in this case). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Extra Parts

Drained the fuel bowl, removed the filter check valve(left-hand threads)and then the fuel bowl heater. And found an extra part, a small disc, probably a plastic disc not metal in the bottom of the fuel bowl---where does this disc go?

EDIT: So I figured out the disc, it is 1 of 3 that keep the heater element from contacting the plate. Does anyone know the ford part number for this heater element plate?
 

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Here are the part numbers:

Fuel Heater Element
Old Style: (Ford) F5TZ-9J294-A (94-97), (International) 1825186C91 (may not work, need to check)
New Style: (Ford) F81Z-9J294-AA, (International) 1831196C92, (Dorman) 904-210
(requires some mods to fuel bowl)

Most folks (including me) just leave it unplugged or remove it rather than replace it since gelling is not really a problem for most with today's fuels. If you do replace it, the new style is a nice upgrade and the Dorman supposedly does not require any modification to the bowl. The old style will just fail again like your old one. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Patrick, fuel bowl is reassembled sans fuel heater.

Made progress today with leak detection, built the pvc cap and pressurized system, it seems there is a small leak along the gasket of the passenger intake. That probably accounts for the oil buildup.

Any help on the part number for the passenger intake manifold gasket?

Thanks ahead!
 

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There is no "gasket" on the intakes. They are sealed with some really good sealant. Here is the part number for that (and the oil pan/other stuff too ... note they are different):

Sealant (Wacker)
Intake Plenums: Motorcraft TA-30 (used to be Ford part F7AZ-19554-EA)
Everything else (oil pan, etc): Motorcraft TA-31 (used to be Ford part F5TZ-19G204-AB)

Great stuff (not cheap, but I would definitely use it if you reseal the intakes). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks again Patrick, would never have guessed that intakes had sealant. Will have to hit up the Ford dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Now we are getting somewhere

OK, got the AE tool and the EBP and MAP were not within .2, so I replaced the EBP sensor located off the HPOP. Now readings match-up.

KOEO looks good, KOER also passes, sometimes 0476 code, cylinder contribution test also passes. Maybe a slight difference noted in tone on BUZZ test. Sidebar--(Since I have cold starts with the symptoms of a 'closed butterfly' I am thinking that the injectors are pretty worn and not functioning until heated up.)

So I think about removing the butterfly, maybe it is sticking on colder mornings and that may contribute to lower boost on warmup? So I remove the downpipe and find there is no butterfly....and no plug???? Would having no plug lessen the overall boost? Looks like I am going to get a 20mm freeze plug this afternoon.


Got the exhaust pressure valve housing off, now I can see that the up pipes are leaking, at least on the passenger side.

Since I don't have parts just yet, I thought I would go through the process of taking the turbo/up-pipes off. All the bolts were loosened with effort except for the bottom up-pipe bolts, and the DS rear pedastal bolt.

Sorry about this long post,

1) Any performance issues without having plug when doing the EBV delete, I'm gonna plug it up nevertheless.

2.) How on earth do you get the DS rear pedastal bolt out, what tool what approach.

3.) What approach for the lower/rear up-pipe/y manifold bolts?


With a little persistence I was able to loosen all 4 turbo to up-pipe manifold. The plan is to get new doughnuts, turbo rebuild kit and clean valley for inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure

So this project has turned into an education on my part, thanks to all who has posted 'the right stuff' on PST (??). I am headed to a fire in Colorado and will be back in probably 14 days.

One thing though, with the AE I am not getting any reading on the Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure, which sensor is responsible for that reading???
 

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That would basically be the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Passenger side firewall, up high with a line to the passenger side intake manifold. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That would basically be the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Passenger side firewall, up high with a line to the passenger side intake manifold. Cheers!

Let me clarify, I am getting a MAP reading, agreeing with exhaust brake pressure but not an intake manifold absolute pressure. Since I am on the road I cannot provide a screenshot from the AE, thanks for the help...
 

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The only sensor that will give that reading is the MAP sensor (since it is "mechanically connected" by the hose to the manifild (so assuming the MAP is "converting" correctly, that should be the manifold absolute pressure). Otherwise, one would need to use an actual pressure gauge on the manifold (or MAP line as many boost gauge installations do). Maybe I am missing something? Cheers!
 
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