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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I am new here. Just found the forum a few days ago actually.

I will be graduating from college soon.......I think I have a job lined up and the first thing I wanted to buy out of school, is a new truck. Lookin' for '05/'06 F250's & F350's Crew Cab Short Box. I've driven Ford all my life. I have a '69 F350 dually w/ a 460 for a toy, got it when I was 16. Dad's had 3 superduty's.......all gassers though.......and some other collectors as well.:icon_ford:

What are these trucks going for? What is considered a deal?

I want to spend less than $28,000. I realize that higher mileage trucks are cheaper. Anything to look out for on the higher mileage trucks in specific......or just what you'd look for in general on any vehicle.

Also, on all of our SD's, the front ends are shot with very few miles on them. Any known fixes for the worn out front ends as far as aftermarket kits?
 

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You need a 7.3, less chance you'll stop liking Ford :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not opposed to an '02 at all, but I think it's just harder to find one with low miles still in good shape.

My cousin has an '02 ext cab Long box.......it flys.......
 

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Good time to be buying, prices are down. For a 6.0, I'd look at 05-06, you can find them in your price range. (paid $31k for my 06 CC/LB/dually King Ranch last September) In 05, they went to coil springs in the front, rides nicer, and they tightened the turning circle.

Haven't heard any fussing about later PS's showing premature front end wear. Mine is tight as a drum at 76k miles.
 

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I love my 2004, But I would agree with JOHNO, I would get the newer 6.o's with coil spring front end, Better ride.
Good Luck and Congrats on the Graduation.
 

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If you are looking at used 6.0's here are a few considerations (along w/ the OASIS and CARFAX reports that are essential):

Some 6.0L weak points (things to check):

  • Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).
  • Ball joints go out at 40k-70k miles.
  • Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling). EGR valves seem to plug quickly - maybe negotiate a new EGR valve.
  • Look for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them

If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors AND at least pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). If it is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well. Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.

Try to find out about the routine maintenance:

  • Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI4+ or CJ4 - one of these is required)?
  • OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
  • Find proof of Transmission being flushed - it is recommended every 30,00 miles.

Any exhaust problems visible (ie lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.

Check for any FLUID leaks (SPECIFICALLY OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!)

CEL light on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's.

If you can pull the EGR valve, I would do so and check for wetness or excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak.

The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD).

Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness) or ball joint looseness.

Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible.

Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges,etc). Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.

Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!

Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters?

Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:

  • Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
  • Drive it - surges? Stutters? Rattles or clunks? Good acceleration? sluggishness?
  • Check the tires - should have over half the life left at this mileage - abnormal wear?
  • How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
  • All electronics working? Especially the AC?
  • Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
  • See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
  • Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstry, etc.
  • Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
 

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