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When I decided I wanted to change up the look on my stock 2015 F-350 Platinum I did a lot of searching but didn’t find everything I was looking for so figured this may help others. I decided I wanted to level my truck but I also tow a 37’ bumper pull camper that weighs around 9k so I didn’t want to go too crazy. I wanted to retain the stock rider or perhaps improve it & didn’t want to do any body modifications. Fortunately I don’t have to drive my truck daily since it’s basically a weekend toy so while I wasn’t too concerned about driveability I didn’t want howling tires, nasty road vibes & wandering steering.

Basically after researching 1.5”, 2.0” & 2.5” I decided on a simple cheap Rough Country 2” puck style level. I looked at spring level kits but they were all 2.5” & since I didn’t want to replace rear blocks, ie lift the rear I figured 2” was all I could do. Plus in my research whether it be Ready Lift, Icon, Bilstein etc you basically have to either relocate the track bar or get an adjustable track bar to do it properly. When I originally measured my truck I had a 2 1/4” difference on the drivers side & a 2 3/4” on the passenger side as it sat stock. Once I decided on the 2” puck set up I decided to go with Bilstein 5100’s designed for 0-2” lifts, orders placed & waited for the brown truck to arrive.

When the level kit & shocks showed up it took a couple of hours to install everything. When I was researching the puck style kits they all looked the same so I bought the lower cost RC kit figuring apples to apples. The one challenge I did have is that the RC 2” kit included cheesy hardware. The bolts you remove from the factory spring pockets are shouldered with an 18mm bolt head but the hardware included in the RC kit is a 22mm non shouldered bolt that due to the size of the bolt head didn’t allow me to fully tighten to spec. I had to make a run to the hardware store to buy some washers that would allow the bolt head to stick up out of the spring pocket enough for me to tighten. So the lack of two .15 cent washers held me up for an hour while my truck sat on jack stands. Once I had the washers I was able to fully tighten the bolts & the rest of the kit went together just fine.

Once the level was complete & shocks were installed I ordered a set of Toyo Open Country AT2 Extreme’s. I toyed with the idea of replacing the rims but decided for now to stick with the factory Platinum wheels. I decided on LT295/65R20’s mounted to the factory wheels & fortunately there is absolutely zero rubbing anywhere. I did have to remove my molded front mud guards since unfortunately at certain steering angles the tires did contact the mud flaps. I had the tire shop perform the alignment & as the research suggested I did loose some castor. Currently my truck is barely in spec with castor but everything else is dead on. I have checked & do not see any evidence of the axle shifting to the left due to track bar not being relocated but haven’t measured to confirm yet. The truck goes down the road great, better than stock with the factory shocks & Michelin’s that had less than 3k on them when replaced. Overall I am very happy with how the truck turned out. When camping season comes I will probably have to install rear bags to keep from squatting but I am waiting to measure first.
 

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Looks good I did the same thing but i went with the Nitto Ridge Grappler.

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Awesome looking trucks to both you guys!! @Sting Do the Ridge Grapplers have much road noise?? My Nitto EXOs are a great tire but for an AT they tend to sing to you on the road.
 

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I love the Ridge grapplers. Had them on for about 15,000 miles and they are wearing great. Little more noise then the terra grapplers but not much.
 

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I love the tires, only a couple hundred miles on them so far but they look great. There is a little more noise but not much, with the music on at a moderate level i dont hear anything from them.
 

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That looks great, sort of off topic question. With that setup, can you fit under a 7' garage door? I'm interested in a similar set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm finding the Toyo's are a little louder than the stock Michelin's but not too bad. The ride has definitely improved but I can't say if it's the tires, shocks or a combination of the two. I'm really happy with the new set up over stock.
 

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RC Leveling Springs VS Spacers?

Looks great! I'm currently in the process of leveling my F-350 although i cant sell myself on buying spacers (although after i read your post it definitely boosts my confidence in going with them!). I noticed Rough Country sells 1.5" springs, which is what i plan on going with. Being that this would be my first endeavor in truck leveling a few red flags came up: First, I noticed Rough Country is the only manufacturer that sells this "spring only" leveling kit, everyone else sells spacers or pricey full kits with leaf packs, adj. trackbars, etc. which poses questions of reliability in that regards. Second, if i were to go with these springs would i need to upgrade shocks, bracket extensions, etc? Being that its only a 1.5" front lift im hoping it will be a simple spring swap and call it a day. What's your thoughts on a simple "spring only" kit over spacers?


-Thanks
 

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Looks great! I'm currently in the process of leveling my F-350 although i cant sell myself on buying spacers (although after i read your post it definitely boosts my confidence in going with them!). I noticed Rough Country sells 1.5" springs, which is what i plan on going with. Being that this would be my first endeavor in truck leveling a few red flags came up: First, I noticed Rough Country is the only manufacturer that sells this "spring only" leveling kit, everyone else sells spacers or pricey full kits with leaf packs, adj. trackbars, etc. which poses questions of reliability in that regards. Second, if i were to go with these springs would i need to upgrade shocks, bracket extensions, etc? Being that its only a 1.5" front lift im hoping it will be a simple spring swap and call it a day. What's your thoughts on a simple "spring only" kit over spacers?


-Thanks
Rough country got there name based off there ride...

Ready lift has a good full kit that doesn't break the bank.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Looks great! I'm currently in the process of leveling my F-350 although i cant sell myself on buying spacers (although after i read your post it definitely boosts my confidence in going with them!). I noticed Rough Country sells 1.5" springs, which is what i plan on going with. Being that this would be my first endeavor in truck leveling a few red flags came up: First, I noticed Rough Country is the only manufacturer that sells this "spring only" leveling kit, everyone else sells spacers or pricey full kits with leaf packs, adj. trackbars, etc. which poses questions of reliability in that regards. Second, if i were to go with these springs would i need to upgrade shocks, bracket extensions, etc? Being that its only a 1.5" front lift im hoping it will be a simple spring swap and call it a day. What's your thoughts on a simple "spring only" kit over spacers?


-Thanks
I read a few reviews that had negative comments on the ride quality with those springs aka they don't call them Rough Country for nothing comments. Although, I've never owned them so I can't say whether it's true or not. My truck rides pretty nice with the the pucks, Bilstein's & new tires. I also added Airlift 5000XL bags to level the truck while towing, 5 psi empty & 30 psi towing.

As a follow-up I've towed my camper twice now, almost 500 miles & I'm happy. Eventually I may get around to installing front caster cams & relocating or replacing the track bar but for now it's working out great as is.
 

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I would recommend Bilstien springs and shocks combo. I like the ride!


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That looks great, sort of off topic question. With that setup, can you fit under a 7' garage door? I'm interested in a similar set up.
I have a 2” leveled 2011 F350 on 35x12.5x20 and I fit in my garage with about 1” to spare. First time I went in I had the wife drive while I stood on a milk crate pushing the garage door up to get the extra clearance. No need to do that as it cleared even with the 2” or so the garage door drops down in the opening.

Granted not the same tire and 2 weeks after you asked but just read this.
 

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Just leveled mine with BDS 2.5 kit with all four Fox shocks and steering stabilizers. Looking for rims and tires now. Priced some rims with custom paint matched for $1800. Whoa,I think I may just buy tires for now and get some more mileage on these stock rims. 🏻 I’ve herd the Nitto is a good tire and fairly quiet. I don’t want a real aggressive tread just something beefier then these Michelin‘s. Pic is the rims I’m looking at..
 

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I decided on LT295/65R20’s mounted to the factory wheels & fortunately there is absolutely zero rubbing anywhere. I did have to remove my molded front mud guards since unfortunately at certain steering angles the tires did contact the mud flaps.
I like that the tires still remain mostly inside the wheel wells. I'm personally not a fan of tires that stick out very much.
Question on the flaps- those look like Weathertech flaps and you say the front made contact? That is interesting because the front of my OEM flaps have huge clearance but the rear is pretty close. I have the factory wheels and LT275/65R20 (34") tires. My thought for when I level is if the rear will rub. I would like to retain some sort of mud flap on the truck after I do level it.
 

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I have a stock F250 suspension running 295/65/20 Ridge Grapplers on stock wheels. I don't rub on my Husky mud flaps or anything else. It may rub a little while backing up with the wheels cranked but it doesn't happen often enough to be an issue. I have just over 40K on them now. I'll definitely buy them again.

 

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I decided I wanted to level my truck but I also tow a 37’ bumper pull camper that weighs around 9k so I didn’t want to go too crazy.

Ok, possibly a 'dumb' question here, but here goes.


I see the term "leveling the truck" used. What exactly does that mean? My stock 2016 seems to be "level" as is. Is this another term for raising the truck up? We use our truck mainly for towing our 30' travel trailer which weighs in at about 8k. Hitch weight is around 1200. Our hitch is rated for 1400. Currently our hitch matches the height of the tongue of our trailer perfectly.



Don't wish to appear out-of-it, but maybe I AM out-of-it. :crazy:
 

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Ok, possibly a 'dumb' question here, but here goes.


I see the term "leveling the truck" used. What exactly does that mean?
I don’t think it’s a dumb question. No one here was born knowing what a leveling kit is. A leveling kit is a lift kit that raises only the front of the truck. Your truck may appear level but if you measure, say from the ground to the top of the wheel wells the front should be about 1.5-2.5” lower than the rear. Trucks are built like this so they sit level with a load.
 

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I have a stock F250 suspension running 295/65/20 Ridge Grapplers on stock wheels. I don't rub on my Husky mud flaps or anything else. It may rub a little while backing up with the wheels cranked but it doesn't happen often enough to be an issue. I have just over 40K on them now. I'll definitely buy them again.
]
Good to know. Thank you. I've got the OEM on now so whenever I do put bigger shoes on at least I know there are some that do not rub. Stock tires are 34.1" and the 295 are 35.1" so its only 0.5" closer to the flaps.
Ok, possibly a 'dumb' question here, but here goes.


I see the term "leveling the truck" used. What exactly does that mean? My stock 2016 seems to be "level" as is. Is this another term for raising the truck up? We use our truck mainly for towing our 30' travel trailer which weighs in at about 8k. Hitch weight is around 1200. Our hitch is rated for 1400. Currently our hitch matches the height of the tongue of our trailer perfectly.



Don't wish to appear out-of-it, but maybe I AM out-of-it. <img src="http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/images/smilies/smiley_crazy.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smiley Crazy" class="inlineimg" />
Level is the term used when only lifting the front. The SD are higher in the rear from the factory to accomodate loads in the bed. So there is a natural "take" to the stance. Lifting the front 2" or so will level the truck out. Hence the term "level"
 
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