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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all this is my parts list for 2020 year

The idea is to buy the best products to help make this truck last. If you have the below products please share your experience with it. If there is a better product out there please share.

MUFFLER:
Jones Turbine Muffler JT5050XL Resonated $92.26

CCV REROUTE KIT:
ADS Crankcase Ventilation CCV Reroute Kit $84.95

COOLER UPGRADE:
AMDP 2011 - 2016 6.7L POWERSTROKE EGR DELETE KIT w/Secondary Coolant Hose Kit 67PEGRDK-R $279.00 CAD $209us

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
SPE 6.7L POWERSTROKE BILLET FUEL DRAIN VALVE SPE-318191 $59.99
SPE 6.7L POWERSTROKE LOW TEMP, HIGH FLOW THERMOSTAT $64.99
Pusher Coolant Reroute for 2011+ Ford 6.7L Powerstroke PFP11XXCRR $124.99

Question: Does any one have the t-stat w/ feedback? Any feed back on the other parts would be greatly appreciated


SWITCH:
ROTARY SWITCH – FORD *EZ LYNK COMPATIBLE GDP210021 48.79
ROTARY SWITCH BRACKET – EFI LIVE/EZ LYNK GDP22002 19.99

INTAKE:
S&B FILTERS 75-5085 COLD AIR INTAKE 75-5085 $329.00

COLD SIDE:
SPE 6.7L POWERSTROKE COLD SIDE PIPE SPE-CSP1719 $249.00
HS 2017+ Ford 6.7L Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Kit (OEM Replacement) 122008 $259.00
HS 2017+ Ford 6.7L Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Kit (Tuning Required) 122009 $259.00
MPD INTERCOOLER PIPE FIX (2017+) MPD-67-PSD-17-ICPFIX $279.00

(Option 1): around $600
Intake
Cold Pipe Fix
(Option 2):
Pusher Open Intake, cold pipe, manifold 1,289.99 Pusher HD 3" Hot Side Charge Tube $219.99 Totaling $1,509.98
MPD Open Intake, hot/cold pipe, manifold $1399.00
GDP Open Intake, hot/cold pipe, manifold $1399.00
 

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I have some of the parts you’re looking at getting. I have the HSM cold side inter cooler tube (OEM replacement) and fit and finish is awesome. Looks good, install was a breeze, and it does its job.

The CCV is a contentious issue. Some love them, some hate them, others had them and went back to stock. Seems like a closed loop system is better than venting to atmosphere. Mishimoto makes a closed loop system but the catch can buries the under hood fuel filter so it’s kind of a pain. Also, lots of people don’t like Mishimoto on this forum so won’t recommend them. I have no experience other than asking them about changing the under hood fuel filter to which they said just unbolt the catch can.

I have the SPE heater inlet preventative maintenance kit (still sitting in its packaging, not installed) and the billet drain plug. The fuel drain plug is very nicely machined. The heater inlet PM kit is ok. Looks kind of cheap with all the fittings you have to use and my piece of tubing doesn’t say SPE on it. Not to mention their shipping took forever! Based on the SPE stuff I bought, I don’t think I’d buy from them again. Also have their diff lock kit and it’s literally a couple jumper wires and a relay.

For an EGR delete, the pass through is worth it. However, it does introduce a potential of an increased leak point. I was originally going to get the GDP kit but didn’t like how the pieces (plate and pass through) sandwiched together. Found a better design out there and couldn’t be happier with my AMDP EGR delete kit.

I’m GDP tuned. I ordered the fancy digital switch and it wouldn’t turn off when the truck turned off. Also, it didn’t fit in the pillar pod I had. It’s larger than the 2-1/8”. Not by much but enough that I had to file the plastic on the pod down to fit it in. I wasn’t happy with it and went to the rotary style switch and the mounting bracket by the OBD port and am much happier.

Why do you need an OBD splitter? The digital switch has an OBD pass through on it so that would connect first and then then you plug in the GDP monitor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have some of the parts you’re looking at getting. I have the HSM cold side inter cooler tube (OEM replacement) and fit and finish is awesome. Looks good, install was a breeze, and it does its job.

Good to hear, thanks for the feedback on the cold side pipe. Im going to get this fix and an intake as well but with that being said I wonder if it worth getting the Pusher system if I am going to be at 600 for intake and cold pipe already.

The CCV is a contentious issue. Some love them, some hate them, others had them and went back to stock. Seems like a closed loop system is better than venting to atmosphere. Mishimoto makes a closed loop system but the catch can buries the under hood fuel filter so it’s kind of a pain. Also, lots of people don’t like Mishimoto on this forum so won’t recommend them. I have no experience other than asking them about changing the under hood fuel filter to which they said just unbolt the catch can.

I think I will run a catch can right in the corner if I have problems with the CCV kits.

I have the SPE heater inlet preventative maintenance kit (still sitting in its packaging, not installed) and the billet drain plug. The fuel drain plug is very nicely machined. The heater inlet PM kit is ok. Looks kind of cheap with all the fittings you have to use and my piece of tubing doesn’t say SPE on it. Not to mention their shipping took forever! Based on the SPE stuff I bought, I don’t think I’d buy from them again. Also have their diff lock kit and it’s literally a couple jumper wires and a relay.

I agree about the heater kit and removed it. I did add the Pusher Coolant Reroute for 2011+ Ford 6.7L Powerstroke. I think its though out better and quality

For an EGR delete, the pass through is worth it. However, it does introduce a potential of an increased leak point. I was originally going to get the GDP kit but didn’t like how the pieces (plate and pass through) sandwiched together. Found a better design out there and couldn’t be happier with my AMDP EGR delete kit.

I found it and added to the list but its in Canada. I will call them and see if i can order and what the price will be for the exchange rate. I think it will be around $205.

I’m GDP tuned. I ordered the fancy digital switch and it wouldn’t turn off when the truck turned off. Also, it didn’t fit in the pillar pod I had. It’s larger than the 2-1/8”. Not by much but enough that I had to file the plastic on the pod down to fit it in. I wasn’t happy with it and went to the rotary style switch and the mounting bracket by the OBD port and am much happier.


How do you like there tunes? Yeah I just dont know how the display and switch on it will work. The simplicity of the rotary switch is nice and bracket.

Why do you need an OBD splitter? The digital switch has an OBD pass through on it so that would connect first and then then you plug in the GDP monitor.


Your right EZ-Lynk (OBD-2) Digital switch (OBD-2) but the monitor would just need power. Removed spliter
Replied in RED above^
 

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AMDP is out of Canada. About 2 hours north of me. His kit is machined with the pass through as one solid piece so it eliminates the chance of a pinched gasket between the block off plate and the pass through. It also comes tapped for a probe and since I use an Edge Insight CTS2, I bought an EAS expansion EGT kit. I haven’t used GDP’s monitor but I do like Edge’s monitoring platform. I have no issue with the bracket and rotary switch and plugging the CTS2 into the OBD port. I run an S&B cold air intake with an oiled filter. I like it as it relocates the battery behind the intake, where it should have been in the first place. No experience with Pusher. GDP’s tunes are great. Lots of different updates of shift on the fly tunes to select from and lots of TCM tunes. I have their unlimited support pack so I get updates frequently With the EZ Lynk. Haven’t tried anything other than what I originally installed but have downloaded quite a few off the cloud.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
AMDP is out of Canada. About 2 hours north of me. His kit is machined with the pass through as one solid piece so it eliminates the chance of a pinched gasket between the block off plate and the pass through. It also comes tapped for a probe and since I use an Edge Insight CTS2, I bought an EAS expansion EGT kit. I haven’t used GDP’s monitor but I do like Edge’s monitoring platform. I have no issue with the bracket and rotary switch and plugging the CTS2 into the OBD port. I run an S&B cold air intake with an oiled filter. I like it as it relocates the battery behind the intake, where it should have been in the first place. No experience with Pusher. GDP’s tunes are great. Lots of different updates of shift on the fly tunes to select from and lots of TCM tunes. I have their unlimited support pack so I get updates frequently With the EZ Lynk. Haven’t tried anything other than what I originally installed but have downloaded quite a few off the cloud.
Yes I talked to AMDP great people, I will be using them. I have a EZ-Lynk that I had on my 2500 that will go on the Ford. Im not sure if the unlimited pack is worth it seeing how things are changing for the tuning community.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ordered the Below
ADS Crankcase Ventilation CCV Reroute Kit
AMDP 2011 - 2016 6.7L POWERSTROKE EGR DELETE KIT w/Secondary Coolant Hose Kit 67PEGRDK-blk
Pusher Coolant Reroute for 2011+ Ford 6.7L Powerstroke PFP11XXCRR
Jones Turbine Muffler JT5050XL Resonated
 

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Are you talking about the digital switch? If so, I had it and couldn’t get it to shut off when the truck was off. It would stay on regardless of if the doors were open and ignition was off. I swapped it out for a conventional dial switch and added a BD Diesel high idle switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Are you talking about the digital switch? If so, I had it and couldn’t get it to shut off when the truck was off. It would stay on regardless of if the doors were open and ignition was off. I swapped it out for a conventional dial switch and added a BD Diesel high idle switch.

2015-2019 | ROTARY SWITCH – FORD *HIGH IDLE* *EZ LYNK COMPATIBLE
Part # GDP210020

Sorry it wont let me post links as my post count is to low :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
ADS Crankcase Ventilation CCV Reroute Kit
765650

The supplied hardware for the above assembly what two shot.
765652
Lowes provided the hardware (M6-1.00 30) needed and I though putting this mesh from the scorch pad would help.
 
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