late HPOP test device build

Hydro said:

Regular 9 volt "transistor radio" battery works well and is easy to find -- for the new generation kids, that is a smoke alarm battery

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You think anyone changes those batteries???
Now I must admit I have three of them in my dual-mag timing box.

Yahiko said:

You think anyone changes those batteries???
Now I must admit I have three of them in my dual-mag timing box.

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Had to look that one up, didn't know there was a fancy tool to set timing on a mag -- I just use the beeper on my meter to time the contacts with the magnets -- Maybe agricultural mags and aeronautic mags are different <shrug>

9 volts ? --no, not until the smoke alarm starts beeping and being annoying

Aircraft just has two of them on the engine. It just gives you two different tones. One for each mag.
Makes it easy when your checking the setup.

I think some people gust rip them down when they start to beep and or pull the battery and then forget about them.
Not the best practices. Once one of mine start to beep it time for a box of fresh batteries and all of them get done.

When I had the gerage fire it was the kitchen detector going off that made me look to see where the smoke was
coming from and then get mom out of the house. I also got the cat out. Then tried to see if I could do anything.

Very simple valving. Is there a key on the shaft or is the gear just a press fit?

Yahiko said:

Very simple valving. Is there a key on the shaft or is the gear just a press fit?

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the shaft is slightly conical. The power is transferred only by friction between the shaft and the gear (as with the steering pump).

@sean: the gear sits tight on the shaft, it needs a puller to loosen it, I don't understand it like that issue with
blicharski1989´s pump (FTE thread) could happen.

I have a theory, but I'm waiting to see if he loses another pump. I don't want to get him worried for nothing.

That is a similar pumping principal to the old Ford 801 hydraulic pump (form the 50's or 60's) -- the main difference was the 801 pump used an axial piston arrangement with a rotating "swash plate" -- a hole in that plate acted as the intake valve

Looks like Ford used the same basic principle for the HPOP in these trucks -- what is old, is new again, ....LoL

Actually a grease gun works in a similar fashion

Siemens did the HPOP for our trucks

I wonder how the 4 valves can be removed without force. There are reman pumps. That means it must be possible to replace the valves.
The sleeves that fix the "cam" are also only pressed in.

My theory:
Possible fracturing (from alignment) of the teeth in the wider gear, if the shaft bearing got worn
The gear looks like made from cast iron -- the narrower gear would allow more movement in the alignment before breaking teeth

And no one has the torque spec on those. They come with both a 10.9 and 11.9 spec bolt. The unusually 11.9 spec is in the TTY territory. Our head bolts are 11.8.

The one you have there is a 10.9 6-point. The 11.9 is a 12-point hex.

As I mentioned over at FTE, there are different castings to these.

Hartwig said:

I must correct myself: only the late pump has a conical shaft and gear. With the early pump, both are cylindrical!

With the early pump, a half turn of the central screw counterclockwise is sufficient for the gear to become loose and no longer drive the pump!

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With the normal rotation direction, the bolt holding the gear would remain tight -- so I don't see the bolt "backing off" ever being a problem

I thought so too, but in this post the screw has come loose.
Why is still unclear.

Post #431

Hartwig said:

I thought so too, but in this post the screw has come loose.
Why is still unclear.

Post #431

Coolant leak help - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

6.0L Power Stroke Diesel - Coolant leak help - Well I noticed today that I have a coolant leak coming from the front to the engine by the driver side power steering pump. Im running red coolant. Im almost positive its coolant and not power steering fluid. Ill confirm tomorrow with a bore scope...

www.ford-trucks.com

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Thanks for the link to that thread -- I suspect the friction fit of the gear is to protect the cam gear, in case the pump locks up (also cheaper to manufacturer) kinda goes with the press fit swash plate idea

That makes sense that it's to protect the cam gear if the pump did lock.