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I think your on the right track with the fuel -- the other readings tho off a little should work

screw the IPR valve back together, should be fine -- the valve should only be tightened to about 10 - 15 foot pounds
 

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If your fuel pump is bad, you can change it out individually (and a fairly easy job). You do not have to cahnge out the entire HFCM.

Fuel pump number (Racor or Parker-Hannifin number since Ford does not sell the pump by itself): PFP58054

Other numbers if you are in a bind:
HFP964 - Delphi
AIRTEX Part # E2340
Spectra Premium SP114 - Rock Auto
 

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I think your on the right track with the fuel -- the other readings tho off a little should work

screw the IPR valve back together, should be fine -- the valve should only be tightened to about 10 - 15 foot pounds
Oh MAN! I was going to hit him up for that valve!
 
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The fuel pump will automatically shut off after a period of time. It should start back up by simply turning the key off and then back on again.

20 seconds sounds a little long for the fill, but I am not sure of the secondary fuel filter bowl capacity compared to 20-24 ounces. As I posted above, the fuel filter bowl should fill in 5 seconds.
 

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BTW - a very well cared for engine area you have there! Very clean.
 

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Well, that fill rate sounds close anyway. It still may not pump well under pressure though. I would suggest getting a pressure gauge on that hose you have on the top of the filter housing cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I pulled all the injector connectors and reconnected them one at a time for individual click testing. The third one back on the driver side is not clicking. I tried two connectors. I've been able to start it with more than one bad injector before. I'm going to take a walk to O'Reilly to see if they have a pressure gauge I can borrow.
 

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Well, you have several things going on. It all adds up. You have borderline ICP pressure. Who knows about fuel pressure, and at least one injector spool valve not working. I can see that being enough to cause a no-start.

Hopefully cranking with low voltage hasn't caused issues with the FICM.
 

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As far as a pressure gauge goes, you can put a schrader valve in the end of a hose and check it with a tire pressure gauge. Probably the cheapest way to go.

Home Depot has the schrader valves, so does Ace Hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well, you have several things going on. It all adds up. You have borderline ICP pressure. Who knows about fuel pressure, and at least one injector spool valve not working. I can see that being enough to cause a no-start.

Hopefully cranking with low voltage hasn't caused issues with the FICM.
Do you really think the injection control pressure is an issue? It's getting well over 500 psi crankingl since I replaced the IPR three days ago.
 

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As I posted earlier - 52% IPR when cranking is not normal IMO, at least for a sustained crank. You may have a small leak on one injector and it is adding to the spool valve issue on another. One by itself may not prevent starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
While cranking I think I noticed FICM Sync toggle from 1 to 0 once so I pulled it out to look at it. I attached a picture of the connector. A lot of bare wire. The sensor was missing the upper oring so when I go into O'Reilly's in the morning I'm going to pick up a new one. Any clue why they have a sensor listed at $40 and the connector at $54?
 

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While cranking I think I noticed FICM Sync toggle from 1 to 0 once so I pulled it out to look at it. I attached a picture of the connector. A lot of bare wire. The sensor was missing the upper oring so when I go into O'Reilly's in the morning I'm going to pick up a new one. Any clue why they have a sensor listed at $40 and the connector at $54?
Which connector? Also, yeah, that's got to be fixed, quit F'ing with it until that's fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
It's starting. I replaced the CPS and patched up the connector with tape. Also, checked the fuel pressure (70 psi). Thanks again all.
 

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FYI - the 7.3L cam sensor is called a CPS. The 6.0L one is called a CMP.

Glad it is fixed!
 
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