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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My '05 F-250 does not start. I recently replaced the ICP sensor with a Napa OEM specification and the IPR valve with Ford OEM. I got it to run for about a minute a couple of times before stalling. KOEO I get 0.2 V-ICP. While cranking I get FICM Sync = 1, FICM Main Power >= 48 Volts, IPR Duty Cycle ~ 50%, and HPOP > 500 PSI. I had two power train codes of 0676 & 0678 glow plugs 6 & 8. Since I had to pull the FICM to get the IPR out I did it again to reseat the connectors. While there I went KOEO with each of the back connectors disconnected individually to listen for the injectors cycling up. It sounded the ssme either way. There's a picture of my Torque Pro screen after I finished cranking. I had the same results when the battery was at 12 Volts, I just didn't think to snap a screenshot until after it worked its way down to 7.8.
This started when I was on a road trip and it stalled with an IPR code that would go away after two hours of cooling off. However it would come back in ten miles. I limped it like that to a place I could work on it. I ordered an aftermarket because it was next day delivery and the OEM was next week. I got back on the road and shortly I was having a rough idle and non-critical ICP low codes. About 5-6 days later it stalled in Deer Lodge, Montana on a Saturday afternoon with a more severe ICP. I walked to their Napa just in time to order the sensor. Tuesday I picked it up, and walked out to the highway, replaced it, and drove to a truck stop in Butte. Then it wouldn't start with HPOP < 200 psi. I decided to look at the IPR valve and the solenoid separated from the valve so I ordered an OEM and replaced it. That's where I am now.
 

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Try troubleshooting with this:


If I read the thread right now, the truck is a no start with ICP < 200 PSI when cranking. That would meaN there’s nothing I could do from a truck stop to fix it.

Seems like the pictures and the first 3/4s of the post is about something you fixed and the last bit is about a different, current problem.

With low ICP, high IPR, and a good FICM reading, the next step Could be an air check Especially because you’ve done the ICP and IPR. THis could reveal a leaking STC fitting, Stand Pipe, Dummy Plug, fuel injector ring, or something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The first paragraph (down to where it says "7.8") is the current state. The next paragraph is the events leading up to it. Sorry if it's backwards. I put the history in as an afterthought.

ICP < 200 PSI was before I put the Ford IPR valve in. The Torque Pro HPOP gauge is showing 1465 PSI now. I didn't think 53% IPR was too high.

The Torque Pro screenshot is of the last time I cranked it. The other picture is just showing how the fairly new IPR valve came out.

Thanks
 

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What is the ICP sensor voltage that you get when you get the 1465 psi pressure?
 

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1.6 volts on the torque screenshot
 
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the 7.8 volts in the battery is just not gonna cut it -- you need no less than 9
 

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Thanks, I didn't see that.

The ICP sensor voltage seems a little off - corresponding to a pressure of around 1200 psi. That said, getting the system voltage correct is priority 1 as Hydro advised..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, I didn't see that.

The voltage seems a little off - corresponding to a pressure of around 1200 psi. That said, getting the voltage correct is priority 1 as Hydro advised..
Yup. I was putting those batteries to work. I'm working on that right now.

Thanks
 

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Yes, I didn't think to take a screenshot until the last crank. One has been charged and the other is on the charger now. Then it's a night for me.

Thanks
The system is wired in parallel, so charging on one side will also charge the other side -- unless there is a problem with your cables
 

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What are the engine conditions for that? Idle I assume.
Are the readings immediately after it starts, or did you wait for the glow plugs to turn off?
The VGT % at 0% looks wrong
 

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Also - I assume you are around 5000 ft in elevation?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
That is immediately after a thirty second crank. I pulled the key before it could update the screen. Other than occasionally sputtering for a few seconds this thing doesn't start.

5500' give or take a few hundred feet.
 

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Gotcha - I still had it in my mind that you could eventually get it to run. I Guess I need to read more thoroughly or quit trying to multi-task.

Have you verified that it is getting fuel? To do that you need to open up the secondary fuel filter bowl, remove the filter, remove any residual fuel, and then see how fast (how many seconds) it will take to fill with the key on (no cranking). This is a 2 person job and it should fill pretty quickly.

What is your fuel tank level?
Are you also getting cam/crank sync (I see that you are getting FICM sync) when cranking?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay I just tried something. Turned on the key and waited for the clattering and hissing to stop. Then I shut it off and pulled the plug out of the fuel filter cap in about 5 seconds. There was no residual pressure. Shouldn't there be?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
We're on the same track. The tank is full.

After I got everything back together and drained the batteries the first time, I had a CamPS Open code. That hasn't returned since I squeezed the connector together.
 

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No, the pressure will bleed off very quickly. Every 6.0L owner needs to have a fuel pressure gauge because the injectors require over 45 psi to function properly and to last.

Give that "fill rate" test a try.

I will say that 52% IPR seems high, but that isn't your main issue now. At least I don't think so at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've got the key on and the plug is so loose I can wiggle it. No fuel leaks. The mp4 I want to attach is not allowed.
 

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Sounds like the fuel pump may not be pumping. It should fill in 5 seconds or so with the key on.

So you have a plug on the secondary fuel filter cap for a pressure gauge?

First order of business is to pump fuel, but then it would be wise to verify the pressure. Can you get some fittings and rig up a gauge?
 
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