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Discussion Starter #21
But I really do appreciate the input I believe what I’ll do is check my head gasket with the bad Injector so long as it tests good I’ll throw in the 155ccs and hammer on.
 

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I'm trying to do this by phone... but maintenance schedule is on the first tab then another has what to monitor and what levels. Its borrowed from a bunch of guys here that pit in work to assemble the info. I just kinda picked off what I thought was needed , if it doesnt work I'll update tomorrow... actually, it says it does not allow the extension.

 

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My comment was directed at the OP, but studs can be done without removing the cab. Getting proper torque on the studs is the real problem with that method though. I pulled the engine, but I was planning on upgrading the camshaft and lifters so it had to come out anyway. If I were just doing studs, I'd probably lift the cab, but I also have a lift.
Im almost in the same boat as you but for different reasons. I sold my classic car and bought a 2005 with 132k miles on it a little under two years ago. Was going to be a camping/trailer rig for the family. I've been camping twice and left early both times because apparenlty liked the " idea" of camping! So now I have this huge truck sitting in the driveway with no purpose! Ha ha anyway...

Seems like you have a monitor, if you monitor on your trucks vitals and wrench every so often to keep up on regular maintenance it's a good truck. First thing I did was did the known issues bpd air to oil and egr cooler stc, ipr etc and guess what, haven't had any issues. Even today, I had never checked fuel pressure, did that today... it was fine. Check. I'll probably check in 6 months again. I might go too far but I have a book so I know when things are due, but it works. You might want to so a pressure check on your coolant, you can search for procedure, about 30bucks worth of parts and you'll know about you HG.

Guess what I'm saying, watch your numbers and keep up on maintenance and can wrench little it's a good truck. And dont try to get enough torque/hp to relocate your home, you'll be fine. Previous owner kept mine stock, that's how I've had it. But also keep in mind it's almost 20 years old and eventually something will break. Itll get super pricey if you dont wrench. And the main thing is you should have a purpose for it! Other than getting groceries and taking weekend trips, but now that I've updated everything it's hard to let go! But maintenance is a little high for what I'm using it for.

As for injectors... things fail, 150k miles out of it was good use in my book. People have gotten substantially less than that. 2 weekends ago I was replacing my rocker arms on a 4 year old durango with 90k miles... dealer said it sounded about right.

Edit: it's late and I rambled... but I've typed too much to just delete it all..
Youve driven 150k since you bought it with 132k? They are fine trucks with an engine system with known issues that are repair able and preventable with maintenance and no tuners hot rodding. And PRE SMOG!
 

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Well I do have a programmer on it it’s an edge insite 2 the only other mod I was really looking to do was go to 155 cc injectors with stock nozzles. Now of course I don’t plan on drag racing this thing which is why I was torn between headstuds or no. I just didn’t want to see the injectors be the breaking factor with the head gasket.
Stick with stock for longevity. The engineers that designed this engine system knew what they were doing better than we do and mods you make that push the limit mean you shorten its life. Like baking a blueberry pie and you love blueberries so you add a bunch more and end up with a mess instead of a pie.
 

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Youve driven 150k since you bought it with 132k? They are fine trucks with an engine system with known issues that are repair able and preventable with maintenance and no tuners hot rodding. And PRE SMOG!
No no.. i bought at 132k and i now have 151k-ish. "...150k miles out of it was good use in my book." was in reference to OPs injector failure at 150k.
 

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Stick with stock for longevity. The engineers that designed this engine system knew what they were doing better than we do and mods you make that push the limit mean you shorten its life. Like baking a blueberry pie and you love blueberries so you add a bunch more and end up with a mess instead of a pie.
Which "stock"? IH/Navistar or Ford. There's a pretty substantial difference. LOL
 

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If Ford use Ford stock if Navistar use their stock recomendations
I was being a bit facetious, but my point was that IH/Navistar designed the engine for somewhere in the range of 230hp, but Ford couldn't compete with Dodge and GM at that hp level so they bumped it up with tuning by about 100hp. They did not, however, change any of the critical mechanicals. I don't remember the exact numbers but those are close. So what I'm saying is, you're "stock" 6.0 isn't really "stock". If you want stock you'll need to detune to the IH/Navistar numbers.
 

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I was being a bit facetious, but my point was that IH/Navistar designed the engine for somewhere in the range of 230hp, but Ford couldn't compete with Dodge and GM at that hp level so they bumped it up with tuning by about 100hp. They did not, however, change any of the critical mechanicals. I don't remember the exact numbers but those are close. So what I'm saying is, you're "stock" 6.0 isn't really "stock". If you want stock you'll need to detune to the IH/Navistar numbers.
By stock i was referring to manufacturers configuration. The naviatar and Ford engines systems were two completely different systems both based upon the same core engine. Another example would be the old pinto engine which became a hot ticket at the strip cause the 4 banger could produce tons of hp without blowing up and it became the highest HP engine offered in the T bird for a bit when the first turbo was introduced. More power than the v8 T birds. That goes back aways maybe 84-86. The engine itself is only one component of an engine system a simple pump that takes air fuel to make power and the more of each forced into the engine the more hp untill kablooie :)
 

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I'll say it again, the engineers "designed" the engine for 230hp. Anything over that is a modification unless there's a redesign to the original specs. So the 6.0 Powerstroke is modified from stock, just like that little 2.3l you're taking about.

We agree on the fact that everything mechanical has it's limits though

I think the 6.0 is quite comfortable at 400-500 hp when it's properly fitted and reasonably used. The bottom end has proven to be more stout than almost any other OEM offering in the class.
 

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I'll say it again, the engineers "designed" the engine for 230hp. Anything over that is a modification unless there's a redesign to the original specs. So the 6.0 Powerstroke is modified from stock, just like that little 2.3l you're taking about.

We agree on the fact that everything mechanical has it's limits though

I think the 6.0 is quite comfortable at 400-500 hp when it's properly fitted and reasonably used. The bottom end has proven to be more stout than almost any other OEM offering in the class.
Yes, the 6.0 is a very stout engine used as part of in my opinion a poorly designed power system. I watched them used on the strip and was impressed at how well the basic engine held up so i decided to order one.
 

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From now on when i'm asked if i have a tune on it... i'm gonna say "... yep, got an extra 100hp from stock. Got it at the dealership too." ha ha. I wonder if they are powered down 100hp-ish would they still have as many HG issues.
 

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From what I've gathered, IH trucks and buses didn't seem to have as many HG issues as Superduties, but there are also a lot fewer of them and most were well maintained since they were in corporate or public service roles. It stands to reason that lower cylinder pressures would lead to fewer failures as well.

Also, if they're never driven, HG's should last quite a long time.
 
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From now on when i'm asked if i have a tune on it... i'm gonna say "... yep, got an extra 100hp from stock. Got it at the dealership too." ha ha. I wonder if they are powered down 100hp-ish would they still have as many HG issues.
Easy enough to do i would think by removing the turbo. I think that's the difference. Would be like one of the old IH D engines they did live long and slow lives.
 

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An injector isn't a lot of work; valve cover, oil rail, injector hold down and a plug. No gaskets to replace just about 25-50 nuts and bolts. Took me 3 hours my first go round. That's 45 minutes to get to the injector, 50 minutes drive time and the rest re-assembly. Oh, I did get a tub of assembly Lube for the o-rings.... And replaced a stand pipe. Still easy for anyone that can turn a wrench.
 
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