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Discussion Starter #1
Truck is 2003 F350 has auto switch on dash and factory hubs 105k miles. With that being said, I used my 4wd for the first time in 2yrs, about a month ago. Since then it I think it feels like the truck just struggles a little more than usual and my mileage has dropped about 2-4mpg. And even less MPG on the highway. Whenever I make a sharp left turn while accelerating I’ve noticed like a vibration in the driveline or something. But not like the 4wd is on.

Today I noticed while turning around in a parking lot it felt like maybe one of my hubs could be locked in?

How can I tell if my 4wd is fully disengaged? I jacked the front tires off the ground, front left felt harder to turn than the right side. Each front wheel spins separately and the front driveshaft spins with it. Should the driveshaft spin if it’s not in 4wd???
 

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No, the driveshaft should not turn if the hubs are unlocked. You can work the hub selector between auto and lock a few times and it should release. You don't have to jack it up, if the hub unlocks you can turn the axle by hand.
 
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Yes, it could be that. It could also be the PVH solenoid and possibly other things. If both hubs are still locked, I'd lean towards the solenoid though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is there a way to tell which hub could be locked? They both turn the front driveshaft.
 

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If they are both turning the front driveshaft, they are both locked.
 

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Mine were stuck on, had to crawl underneath and rock the axles back and forth until they actually unlocked
Runs a lot smoother down the freeway now

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok that makes me think something besides hubs then because I don’t think both locking hubs would go bad. Hmmmmm.
 

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If you decide to replace the vacuum solenoid, only use the Ford one -- none of the Doorman junk works
a HF hand held vacuum pump has a gauge on it -- tee it into the hub lines and see if the vacuum solenoid is working
it is a double solenoid unit -- one to engage and one to disengage
the hubs work like an ink pen -- push once for on - push again for off
the hubs can get "gummed" up from lack of use, so may need to remove them and clean
the large seal on the back of the hub can leak/wear out -- the HF hand pump can be used on individual hubs to test the locking of the hub -- jack the wheel and hand rotate, you can lock/unlock aith the hand pump
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So today I pulled the factory lockouts out of the hub and free’d up the front 4wd. They were very hard to turn and didn’t look like they were even doing anything.
So it looks like I’m ordering some Warn Premium lockouts.
 

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thats better
but i would not buy from a non authorized dealer that can't provide warranty
so dbl check to make sure Warn does not require that

Warn Industries, Inc. (Warn) warrants to the original purchaser that the mechanical components of the WARN® Locking Hubs will be free of defects in material and workmanship for the lifetime of the product. This Warranty applies only to the original purchaser of the product. Products covered by this warranty: • Locking Hubs To obtain warranty service: • Call Warn Customer Service at 1-800-543-9276 for warranty claim information. • Provide proof of purchase with a copy of a dated sales receipt and original bill of sale clearly showing the WARN Product purchased. • Make the claim within the Warranty period. • Attach your name, address, telephone number, a description of the problem, and a copy of your receipt and original bill of sale to the product. • Return the Product, transportation charges prepaid, to the Warn Industries Service Department at 12900 SE Capps Rd., Clackamas, Oregon 97015. OR Find the nearest Warn Authorized Service Center by visiting: www.warn.com/corporate/authservicecenters.shtml. Warn will, at its option, repair, replace or refund the purchase price of a defective Product or component. Items not covered by this Warranty include: the removal or re-installation of the Product and product fi nish. This warranty does not apply if the Product has been damaged by accident, abuse, misuse, collision, overloading, modifi cation, misapplication, improper installation, or improper service. This warranty is void if any Warn serial number or date code has been removed or defaced. Commercial or industrial use or application voids the warranty. THE WARRANTY SET FORTH ABOVE IS THE ONLY WARRANTY. THERE ARE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY WHICH BY LAW MAY NOT BE EXCLUDED IS LIMITED IN DURATION TO ONE (1) YEAR FROM THE DATE OF ORIGINAL RETAIL PURCHASE OF THE PRODUCT. WARN SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR SPECIAL,INDIRECT,INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, LOST PROFITS,DOWN TIME OR LOSS OF USE) UNDER ANY LEGAL THEORY, EVEN IF WARN WAS ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. Some states do not allow the exclusion of implied warranties or the exclusion or limitation of liability for incidental or consequential damages, or limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specifi c legal rights. You may also have other rights that vary from state to state. Warn reserves the right to change Product design without notice. In situations in which Warn has changed a Product design, Warn shall have no obligation to upgrade or otherwise modify previously manufactured Products. No WARN dealer, agent or employee is authorized to make any modifi cation, extension or addition to this warranty. This warranty is valid only in the U.S.A. and Canada. For warranty outside the U.S.A. and Canada contact your local Point of Sale Retailer. To fi nd the nearest retailer to your location please visit our website at http://www.warn.com/corporate/ dealerlocator.jsp or contact us at 1-503-722-1200 or 1-503-722-3000 (Fax
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Warn provides the warranty. I had a Warn Premium hub go bad on my other truck 2 years ago. One of the round spring things broke. Called Warn, sent them pics, they didn’t care about anything they just sent me a new hub and I sent them the old one back. Can’t beat that.
 

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I'd probably plug the lines at the PVH solenoid and unplug it just because I'm a little OCD, but technically it's not really necessary.

You do you.

But if was me, I'd have done a little more legwork to get the auto hubs working. It probably would have been cheaper. Besides, the OEM hubs can be used as manually locking hubs too. I get they were hard to turn, but that's fixable.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I’ve had off and on problems with the factory auto lock hubs. One would engage, one would not. They took forever to engage etc... Finally they were stuck engaged and would not release. That was it for me and it’s probably a matter of time before something else goes wrong, it’s just easier to lock and unlock them and be done. I don’t want to be in a situation where I need them and don’t work or can’t get it disengaged again. Besides, who wants plastic hubs.
 
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