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Discussion Starter #1
About two weeks ago my transmission started behaving strangely. Everything would be fine and then all of a sudden the transmission dash light would come on and I would lose power. Hitting the gas doesn't accelerate, the truck just kinda shakes. If I shift to neutral and coast for about 6-10 seconds the light will go off and then I can shift back into drive and everything works normally. :dunno: It just seems to randomly do this. It seems to happen mostly speeds of 40mph and up. My trans temps usually hover in the low 100s but never get above 150.
I took it to the local auto parts store today to get the codes but the reader isn't showing any thrown codes. Any ideas?
 

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If the tranny light comes on that means your about to blow up your tranny, and you need to not punch the gas. Its probably your torque convertor shifting into overdrive
 

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Um, first, generic OBDII scanners will not work on these trucks, you will need a good scanner like Auto Enginuity or Snap-On, etc. Second, What dash light are you referring to? I can;t think of any "Tranny light" int he dash. :dunno:

The O/D light on the shifter is the tranny light, and when it flashes that means there is a transmission code.

Could you be referring to your Water in Fuel light? (WIF?)
 

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Wow im an idiot :doh: the o/d light is what i was thinking of.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Um, first, generic OBDII scanners will not work on these trucks, you will need a good scanner like Auto Enginuity or Snap-On, etc. Second, What dash light are you referring to? I can;t think of any "Tranny light" int he dash. :dunno:

The O/D light on the shifter is the tranny light, and when it flashes that means there is a transmission code.

Could you be referring to your Water in Fuel light? (WIF?)
I just realized the light was the check engine light. It just looked more like a transmission to me :doh:
 

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I just realized the light was the check engine light. It just looked more like a transmission to me :doh:
In that case, I would try a new FORD CPS. :nod: Even if that's not it, you should have a spare anyway. :wink[3]:

Welcome to guzzle's CPS R&R Web Page<

You could try unplugging the ICP also and see if that clears it up.



BUT: Your best bet would be to find a good scanner, either borrow one of buy one. I have the Auto Enginuity with Ford pack, $360 TYD, and 100% worth it. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just reseated the PCM(updated my tunes) so that's eliminated. I guess next up is to try unplugging the ICP.
What does unplugging the ICP do?
 

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I just reseated the PCM(updated my tunes) so that's eliminated. I guess next up is to try unplugging the ICP.
What does unplugging the ICP do?
Makes the PCM use default setting. It will give you a CEL but will run fine. Whereas a bad ICP can make it run horribly or not at all. Also check the plug for oil when you unplug it, that's another sign it's bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just got some other advice to check the electrical connectors on the inside of the valve covers. I'll dig into this when I get some free time.
 

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I just got some other advice to check the electrical connectors on the inside of the valve covers. I'll dig into this when I get some free time.
UVCH. That is a possibility. That can cause a couple if not an entire bank of cylinders to stop working.

Did you find info on the $.50 mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I just looked it up on youtube. I'm not sure I'd want to run the chance of a quarter jingling about in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Ok I checked the UVCH on both sides and they were both a little loose and the clips weren't fully in place. I made sure to tighten them and push the clips in.

Now, when I start the truck the CEL stays on and it runs a bit rough. Any ideas?

Edit: I just tried unplugging the ICP and that did not help. I'm thinking it might be a bad CPS.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I got a new CPS installed and that didn't help. It seemed like one of the cylinders was dead, the truck was shaking badly, so I felt the headers to see what side wasn't firing. I took off the passenger valve cover again and one of the damn injectors was completely unplugged.

I don't know how I missed that when I had the valve covers off the other day. Now everything is fine. It seems to run a bit smoother and have better throttle response with the new CPS too!

PS - can a mod change the thread title to "UVCH connector issues"
 
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