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So I made the jump this weekend to save the coolant system in my truck. I am at 150k so I was due for a flush anyways. The first thing I wanted to do was see if I was having any major catastrophic failure. On friday I installed the Edge Insight CTS and EAS EGT probe (only took about 45 minutes to install) and drove around an hour. I was seeing deltas between EOT and ECT get around 13 but were staying pretty consistenly arond 9-10. I felt pretty good about these numbers but had already purchased all the needed materials to do the flush.

Friday night I got all my materials organized in the shop. I had 2 quarts of VC-9, 1 gallon of restore, 48 gallons of distilled water, a new thermostat and housing, a new degas bottle, ford blue spring upgrade, a Sinister coolant filtration system, and a new alternator.






The next morning the work began. Make sure you have plenty of time. The flush and coolant filtration install took me around 12 hours to complete but I was very thorough. I first drianed the coolant system to see what I was working with.



As you can see THANK GOD someone before me had changed out the Ford Gold crap already. This is probably while I was seeing such good deltas. After I drained the system I filled with water and ran for 15 minutes then drained the radiator and the driver side block. I never did remove the passenger side plug. I beleive this cost be a few more flushes but I wasn't really worried about the time. It was a beautiful day and my 2 year old boy and my girl were hanging out with me.


After the initial drain I removed the thermostat and added 1/2-3/4 of a gallon of restore. 6.0 have a 7 gallon filtration system and the bottle calls for 1 gallon to every 10 gallons. Once I topped it off with distilled water I turned the heater on high, loaded up the crew, and went for a 72 mile drive to another one of our shops. When I arrived there I drained the system and saw basically clear water with nothing crazy in it. Just looked like soapy water coming out of the radiator. When I drained the block there was some brown in there but not to much. Sorry I missed the picture on this drain. After that I filled the system with distilled water and me and the family went to lunch. I came back from lunch and once again drained the system completely. I then added the VC-9 and distilled water, cranked up the heater, and began my 72 mile cruise back to the homeland.



When I returned back to the shop I drained the system and had quite different results this time.



The results were a very milky thick concentrate that you could barely see through. I didn't notice alot of sediment in the bottom but it was extremely hazey.



After this was done it was time to do some major flushing to get it clear. I changed out the degas bottle and began doing distilled flushes with 15 minute running intervals in between. I originally purchased 48 gal of distilled water and when I was done I only had 4 left. I spent probably 3 hours filling and flushing to get completely clear, no smell, water.





As you can see this water is literally crystal clear and had zero chemical smell to it. Now that that was done I plugged the system back up completely, reinstalled the thermostat, and installed the Sinister Coolant system. The Sinister kit comes with pretty good instructions on how, and where, to install the kit.





After the kit was completely installed I added 3.5 gallons of Chevron Delo ELC (Cat certified and 1,000,000 change intervals!) and topped off with distilled water. At this point it was 11:30 pm and I had started at 11am so I decided it was time to call it a night.



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The next morning I checked for leaks and then began the install of the Ford Blue Spring. This install was quite easy BUT I miised one thing. I should have waited to fill the coolant system before I installed this. the radiator hose is in the way pretty good on this. I saw where others had tied strings to it to get it out of the way but I chose to drain some coolant into a clean container and disconnect the upper hose and swing it over. You need to remove the air box assembly and the front part of the assembly completely; also remove the intercooler pipe. I have to admit the instructions kind of sucked as far as where all the O rings go.





All finished! Here is what I have noticed since the install. My throttle response is much better. I was having some sputtering before this install and this seemed to clear it up. I am at 150k and have all factory injectors, oil coolers, EGR coolers, etc. The only motor part that has been replaced was the turbo at 120k. As far as EGT and EOT. I noticed that my ECT climb quickly in the morning while it takes my EOT a while to catch up. Once they get in the mid 190's they both stabilize and run between 3-5 degree delta. I am very comfortable with these numbers and beleive I have a 6.0 that will last for a long time. I do have an oil leak somewhere on the top of the motor that has gotten progressively worse. Next weekend I will be tackling phase 2 of this project which will include. EGR delete, new ford oil cooler, new intercooler pipe, new up pipe, and various turbo drain tubes etc. I am only replacing the coolers because I will have the motor tore down that far. I am still sitting on factory head bolts and see no symptoms whatsoever of head gasket problems so I am keeping that money in the bank for now. I see no reason to replace them when I look around and see no leaks or coolant loss. After I button up the top end next weekend I hoke to have a very reliable truck that will last me another 150k. I know there is a chance that head studs will eventually need to be done but if I can get by without them for now then I will. The money is in the bank and this mod can be done in a moments notice if needed. I also have seen increased MPG since I did the installs this weekend! Ask any questions or add any suggestions you would like.
 

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This install was quite easy BUT I miised one thing. I should have waited to fill the coolant system before I installed this. the radiator hose is in the way pretty good on this.
I was going to do my blue spring this past weekend, but also decided to wait until I do the flush too for the same reason.

Where did you buy the Restore?
 

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I was going to do my blue spring this past weekend, but also decided to wait until I do the flush too for the same reason.

Where did you buy the Restore?
Honestly I had a heck of a time finding it. My local dealers only carried the Restore + said they had never used the other. I have found over the years that the internet it just so much easier. Now I just google and click buy and it shows up on my door step. The restore came out of minnesota somewhere. If I know exactly where I can get something I will go pick it up to support the local economy but I can't spend hours chasing parts and stuff.
 

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great job man!!!!!!!!!
Thanks....the big project starts this weekend. Now that I know coolant system and HG's are ok I am diving into Bulletproof EGR, new oil cooler, new CAC pipe, all the little upgraded goodies also, AND I FINALLY ORDER ME A TOP SIDE CREEPER! I plan on starting a new thread and posting a kind of step by step for everyone.
 

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Nice job. When you install your new oil cooler, it should enjoy a long lifetime.
Your ribs/chest will certainly feel much better with that topside creeper verus without it.

The one and only thing I see that might cause an issue down the road is the location of the coolant return line from the coolant filtration system. It looks like it might rub on the upper radiator hose, and the hose is left unprotected, it could leak later.

If you want a step by step (with drawings/torque values..but no real pics) for the egr/oil cooler swap, check my sig line. It was written without doing the actual egr cooler replacement, but if you are mechanically inclined at all, it is rather easy to figure it out.
You might want to have a dremel tool handy to get rid of that scoop in the passenger side up-pipe.
Suggest removing the oil dipstick from the tube when doing that repair too. I know I am not the only one out there that broke theirs.

Good Luck, I look forward to checking out the pictures.
 

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What is the blue spring upgrade for exactly? Im still trying to learn all the things that need to make the 6.0 a better motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice job. When you install your new oil cooler, it should enjoy a long lifetime.
Your ribs/chest will certainly feel much better with that topside creeper verus without it.

The one and only thing I see that might cause an issue down the road is the location of the coolant return line from the coolant filtration system. It looks like it might rub on the upper radiator hose, and the hose is left unprotected, it could leak later.

If you want a step by step (with drawings/torque values..but no real pics) for the egr/oil cooler swap, check my sig line. It was written without doing the actual egr cooler replacement, but if you are mechanically inclined at all, it is rather easy to figure it out.
You might want to have a dremel tool handy to get rid of that scoop in the passenger side up-pipe.
Suggest removing the oil dipstick from the tube when doing that repair too. I know I am not the only one out there that broke theirs.

Good Luck, I look forward to checking out the pictures.
The hose location is where sinister suggested the install go per it's diagram unless I totally misread it. I kind of thought the same thing as you but figured if it's worked for others then it will work for me. NYC it's weird you commented on this because a guy at bulletproof actually suggested I look you up on here for some diagrams for my install. I really wish I had the ford repair manual but I think I can piece it together between the forum and my Haynes manual. I was more worried about torque specs than anything. I agree the top side creeper will be a great addition, and I also ordered a set of ratcheting wrenches to add to the tool bench which I hope to come in handy.

Any crazy special tools I will need? I read something about a 15mm hex or something. I think it's for when I do the dummy plugs and stand pipes.


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app
 

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Click the following link. There are PDF files from the service manual for turbo removal/install, intake manifold remove/install, the oil cooler servicing and turbo refurbishing.
The post will have all the info you could want, including part numbers, other parts to consider replacing while you are already there (you previously mentioned most of them anyway) as well as a few tips and things to look out for.
I think it would be worth your while to check it out. It beats the Haynes manual, hands down.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...ooler-egr-cooler-service-pdf-files-notes.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is a new up pipe really necessary? I am doing the bpd upgraded oil cooler for resale reasons down the road and bpd said I didn't need one
 

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The one and only thing I see that might cause an issue down the road is the location of the coolant return line from the coolant filtration system. It looks like it might rub on the upper radiator hose, and the hose is left unprotected, it could leak later.
Agreed. Here is what I did to remedy this issue. Drill 2 holes in the back of the fan shroud nameplate housing. Run 2 zipties through the holes and out the bottom of the namepalte housing and pull the coolant return hose from the filter till the clamps are free and clear of the radiator hose. Then zip that puppy tight and forget about it.

 

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Is a new up pipe really necessary? I am doing the bpd upgraded oil cooler for resale reasons down the road and bpd said I didn't need one
No, you do not need a new up-pipe....BUT, there is a "scoop" that is inside your existing up-pipe that was put there to direct exhaust flow through the EGR cooler. That scoop takes up ALOT of the diameter of the up-pipe, and I personally think it would be best to remove it. You will see what I mean once you are holding it in your hand. It is easy to remove with a dremel, or some other tool like it.
 

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very good write up and pictures, and congrats on the deltas coming into spec.

when you are into the egr and oil coolers you ,also should replace that stc fitting in the hpop with the one piece. not nitpicking just suggesting.

DTS Articles - New High Pressure Oil Connector

High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) Pressure Fitting Upgrade Kit, 2005-2007

this is only for piece of mind and it would be easier to repair with all the top end removed.

besides i like spending YOUR MONEY :rofl::hehe:

this link is for the install

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/110450-stc-fitting-install.html

after i reread your post for the flush, you was surprised that your cooling system did not have the ford gold in it ,Have you ever had an Oasis report made??

If not,maybe you are doing things that are done already. just a thought and going buy your deltas for reference
 

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I do have an oil leak somewhere on the top of the motor that has gotten progressively worse.
When you do the egr delete you'll probably find the oil leak is in the turbo feed line. Easy fix and there is an upgrade for that as well.
 

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can anyone tell me more about the right hand block drain plug? i don't want to pull the wrong drain plug on accident
 

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correction i must be blind i don't see any plug
 
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