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· Compression Ignition Addict
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I had one FICM failure at 65k miles (it was the original). After upgrading, there have been no problems (currently at 240k). I have been pushing some decent power since 100k miles. Lots of people w/ similar experiences.

I wouldn't doubt that the relocation kit would sell, but IMO it is just playing to peoples emotions....unless the relocation kit costs significantly less than a quality FICM upgrade costs.
 

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I had one FICM failure at 65k miles (it was the original). After upgrading, there have been no problems (currently at 240k). I have been pushing some decent power since 100k miles. Lots of people w/ similar experiences.

I wouldn't doubt that the relocation kit would sell, but IMO it is just playing to peoples emotions....unless the relocation kit costs significantly less than a quality FICM upgrade costs.
My coworker went through 2 and when the second started going out, he sold the truck. I'm not convinced his was ever ficm or the dealership just kept charging him though.
 

· Compression Ignition Addict
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My FICM was covered under the Emissions Warranty, but the Dealership tried hard to charge me anyway. We were on a trip, a long way from home, and the FICM just happened to fail a few miles from a dealership.

I had all the paperwork on the federally required emissions warranty with me. Took me a bit of time to convince them that I owed nothing, but finally did. I think they actually knew all along that it was covered, just tried to take advantage of an out-of-towner.
 

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I just bought an icp relocation line and found a 12" icp connector extension on a different site(so I don't need to open my wiring up). I'm going to try this and see if this also is a temperature issue. I could probably have just unplugged the icp but I like the idea of moving it as well. The icp v at idle when it acts up are .7 to 1.1 constantly fluctuating but only when truck is warm.
 

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The icp relocation kit arrived yesterday along with the extension connector I found on a different site. It was about 5pm and I decided to try and install instead of doing it today since with all the experience I have of tearing everything down, it should be quick. I was so wrong. Teardown was fast. Install kicked my butt. You get an adapter fitting to go into the block, a 45 deg fitting to get to the hose(5100psi rated) then another adapter on the opposite end for the ICP sensor. Without removing the Turbo, there is no room for wrenches to tighten fittings, I fought for a good 2 hours trying to catch a thread by flicking my finger and holding it at the same time. I finally got it and just got back from getting gas. So far the truck is solid as a rock. I got back from a 250 mile trip yesterday and my truck pretty much was acting up at every stop. I'm still thinking my wiring or the sensor was being affected by heat. I will update after this week and @jokester00, maybe this is your issue as well. I also sleeved the relocation hose with my left over DEI heat sheild.
 

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This is my next repair when I get around to swapping the harness. Putting sensors and even a ficm for that matter next to all that heat is just crazy to me.
They seem to always leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
I will update after this week and @jokester00, maybe this is your issue as well. I also sleeved the relocation hose with my left over DEI heat sheild.
The ICP location definitely isn't my issue because mine is an '05 and up front on the passenger valve cover. I still might have an issue with my ICP or IPR wiring though, but it happens so few and far between that it makes it hard to troubleshoot. I plan on unplugging my ICP next time it acts up to hopefully rule out something. I'm just driving it till something finally craps out :D

-jokester
 

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I almost have a similar problem but not at idle. Mine under load in overdrive will start bucking when you start to gradually give it fuel before it wants to drop down. Never throws any codes. If i hold it steady i can get it to keep doing it, With stock tune i hardly get it happening maybe feel it very mildly, sct x4 50hp tune it does it fairly often pretty bad, higher hp tune even worse. Ford thinks its ipr acting up and tunes are affecting it making symptoms worse. Truck idles great, just bucking under load over 50mph, worse on hills. Great fuel pressure 65idles lowest ive ever seen was 55, usually 58, has newer fhcm and tank cleaned and sumped, New ebp, icp, injectors, ficm, glowplugs, glowplug module, tranny has 10k, motor has 40k studded deleted, kdd heads, new hpop, oil cooler, turbo replaced and cleaned all parts motocraft including filters, rotella t6 5w40syn 6k intervals with archoil every change, and stanadyne everyfill up, fords new yellow elc (not gold). I gave up diagnosing it, ive literally changed everything on truck i feel like lol, and seemed like classic injector symptoms to me but they assure me its not. Ford claims the ipr is acting up, and the increased oil pressure demand from tunes is making it act up worse, no pids are jumping out on ae or ids as out of spec, passed buzz test and multiple contribution tests, and compression. Only thing they could say was ipr and icp desired vs actual was slightly off at the rpm and speed im having the issue, and the psi is jumping up more than it should be at that rpm range , but they claim normally it wouldnt be enough for concern, but i had them try with the tune and it was worse, but still not alarming according to tech, but its the only thing thats basically isnt perfectly ideal. I thought ipr usually would show up at idle or starting issues, i have none of that, only what feels like an injector issue under load, he claims he's had trucks with no classic ipr symptoms running poorly or do strange things like mine run like a different truck after swapping. Im going to change the ipr per there recomendation, and only reason its basically the only thing that hasnt been replaced yet, is it was lower mile one i replaced 70k miles ago before rebuild. We will see.
 

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Would be interesting to unscrew the valve part from the large nut, and clean the magnetic armature and body

I made tools to hold the valve body without distorting it, but the needle nose vice grips may also work, if used carefully

The valve body is threaded into the large nut that holds the magnetic coil -- over time metal particles will stick to the armature and cause it to hang up in the bore
washing with brake clean and air should restore the valve action -- then just thread the valve back together

There is a more detailed tear down, bot you only need to thread the body apart to clean the inside of the magnet part
a drop of blue lock-tite on the threads on assembly
 
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Hey i have seen the detailed take down of the ipr, i will probly take the old one apart and keep it as a spare. Its at ford now and they have a new ipr coming, they are confident thats the issue so id like to rule it out with a new one. I have my doubts thats the issue but who knows, just not how i see a ipr acting up but what do i know, i still think its an injector issue but they claim theres no way its an injector. Had contribution tests and buzz tests at 2 seperate dealers just to confirm. Will find out soon i guess. Thanks, hydro
 

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Not sure how long you had been running the tunes but I had a similar issue I was chasing and it turned out to be the tunes. Got new tunes and problem never came back.
 
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