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Discussion Starter #1
truck through two codes today for cylinder contribution/balance faults....P0278(cylinder #6) and P0284(cylinder #8). Truck was cold when started, idled a bit higher than normal then idle stared to rise on it's own all the way to 1000-1100ish and got kinda choppy/rough. I turned truck off, deleted the codes and started truck back up to idle for a bit. Checked codes again and this time only through code for P0278(cylinder #6). Deleted that code again and started back up...idled fine this time. Took for a drive...all seemed good, checked for codes and there were none this time. Gonna keep an eye on it and see if they keep popping back up. If they do, i'm gonna yank all of them and send them out to have them checked out. Now, if it's a contribution/balance code...does that pretty much narrow it down to a rubber o-ring or copper washer? What else can through contribution/balance codes....can a faulty spool valve or wiring(injector harness or injector plug) cause a contribution/balance code?
 

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Just cold natured injectors sounds like to me. I've been driving my truck (running rough when cold) for over 2 years know IMO its nothing to worry about. Some say its the kind of oil you're using in the truck. Others say a bad ficm will cause it to run rough when cold then when it warms up it clears out. My truck just passed 200k miles today actually lol when i do the head gaskets soon (again):doh: im replacing all 8 injectors
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no....this isn't normal and it's not the truck just being cold. This is the first time it's acted like this since i put the injectors in back in december of '08. It's not the oil either...always run amsoil 5w-40 with either rev-x or Ar9100. I already know how a 6L acts with bad spool valves or a bad FICM.
 

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A contribution/balance is basically a missfire code. It's just saying that cylinder isn't contributing or firing 100% for any reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm thinkin something with spool valve. I've had issues before with copper washer and rubber o-rings, but truck doesn't have those symptoms like that. So that's why i'm leaning towards spool valve. I do have a brand new injector harness i could try out to rule that out...also gonna check injector plug connections on the harness for those two injectors.
 

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I agree you probably have sticking spool valves . The copper washer seals the combustion chamber if you had a problem with that you would have compression and combustion gases in the fuel system which typically affects the whole bank. you would also have to have a problem with the o-ring in addition to the copper washer allowing compression into the fuel system. if you had a connection or harness problem you would normally have injector circuit codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree you probably have sticking spool valves . The copper washer seals the combustion chamber if you had a problem with that you would have compression and combustion gases in the fuel system which typically affects the whole bank. you would also have to have a problem with the o-ring in addition to the copper washer allowing compression into the fuel system. if you had a connection or harness problem you would normally have injector circuit codes.
Yeah, i know how it is with a bad copper washer and rubber o-rings...had issues with that on my last set of injectors...truck runs like crap all the time. yeah i kinda figured that with the circuit codes. I've had them pop up before when i had an injector plug loose and not plugged in all the way on the injector harness. Just wasn't sure if that would also throw cont/balance code to. I've been running 5w-40 synthetic since i bought the truck and started using rev-x since i installed these injectors. I know it's nothing to do with the oil i'm running. Must be just a freak thing going on with a couple spool valves. I might change the oil out with some new stuff and add put some additive in it and see what happens. Only got about 3K miles on this oil so far. I'll fire it up in a little bit to see what happens and how it idles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
batteries are fine(brand new from ford and the voltage is always good with them...monitor voltage with insight) and FICM is good.
 

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Did they smooth out after it warmed up some? I mean, you have as slick as it gets for oil. If not, could be a chaffed wire or one of the valves could be grinding against themselves. Never heard of that, but it could happen i guess. Or you may have developed a bad nozzle for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
truck sat for nearly two days....started it up yesterday afternoon with it being 64* out and it idled smooth without a miss. If it was a wireing issue the codes would be for high or low circuit for those cylinders not a contribution/balance fault.
 

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its probably fine it was more than likely some fluke thing. if it happens again then be concerned but dont get all worked up yet.
 

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Well that rules out the bad nozzle anyway.

Now for the wiring, I had seen where people have had elctrical troubles for no odd reason and they go away just to come back down the road. In cars and home wiring. Maybe where it was a tad cooler, everything contracted back and if you do have a chaffed wire, it wouldn't be touching anything. I now it sounds very odd at best, but it could happen.

the other is you may have had a small piece of debis get in the spool valve and jam it up, but it worked its way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i really dont think it's anything to do with wiring issues do to the fact that if it was a wiring issue the codes would've been for high or low circuit, but they weren't...they were for contribution/balance codes.
 
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