[idjmv]

Hey there,

About a week ago, I started my truck and was about to take the GF home, but after idling for about a minute, (outside temp was 31F), the truck started loping, and eventually it was idling really rough. I killed it, started it back up, and it would idle really rough. Now, it doesnt start at all, and doesnt throw codes.

So far, ive replaced the fuel filter, and i get 68 psi to the filter bowl. Doesnt start with ICP sensor disconnected, and CPS is still good. When the truck was still my grandpa's, he removed the fuel bowl heater system entirely, so thats not the culprit either. Fuel level is at about 1/4, but its never had problems running at almost empty.

Truck has 290k miles on it, its a E99 Lariat.

Figured id ask for suggestions on what to check, and how to do so.

Im thinking it could be the UVCH, or maybe the IGR. Or bad/clogged injectors, but I dont know where to start, and i want to try the easy (and cheapest) tests first, as both money and time i have to spend working on the truck is extremely low.

 

[Mmaiers92]

Do you get a WTS light when you turn the key on? What did you check for codes with? I understand lots of generic scanners dont read these trucks well. Check all of your fuses, with an ohm meter to be sure. What condition are your batteries in? Low voltage/cranking speed can cause a no start.

 

[idjmv]

WTS turns on as usual, and I inherited an AutoEnginuity kit with the truck when my grandpops passed. AE provided no codes.
Batteries were new a year ago, and I charged them this morning before trying to start it.

Ill have to check them with my multimeter once i find it, as well as the fuses

 

[NoRalPh]

So first, make sure your AE setup is right, it needs to be configured and if you put the sw in your computer to use it, it may not be (it also needs to have the Ford Enhanced Package to read many codes like from the IDM)

AutoEnginuity Tips or Tricks

Just wanted to start a thread in the new forum for folks to throw out their tips and tricks to using the AutoEnginuity software. Here's mine: I have found that most of the time that the Auto-Detect does not work for selecting the protocol. Manually selecting the protocol will usually work 99%...

www.powerstroke.org

What you describe sounds like an IDM/UVCH problem to me. Running "really rough" is often running on just one side because of a bad UVCH connection (if you can get it to run at all, the Temp difference in the ex manifolds is obvious). Sometimes as simple as wires chafed against the dr side valvecover as they run to the pass side UVCH)

Be sure your able to get a proper scan from the AE, see if there are really codes there, with a an Enhanced Powertrain scan, there surely would be something (eve if just some Body codes that aren't part of this )

 

[greenskeeper]

probably a failed UVCH

remove the oil cap and give it a sniff.... do you smell burnt wiring? If so it's the UVCH.

If you can get it running (may need to plug it in), while idling poorly disconnect one bank at a time. If you disconnect a bank and the engine keeps running....that's the bad harness. If you disconnect and the engine shuts off....thats the working harness.

The engine is trying to run on 4 cylinders when an UVCH fails.

 

[idjmv]

Alrighty, so i figured AE. I didnt have it fully set up, thats on me. Ran buzz test, drivers side bank is down. They did buzz, but they were all weak buzzes.

Went to ohm everything, and connector on the valve cover (not the 42 pin one, the one for just the injectors and GP), injectors read about 4.5-4.9 ohms, could be a crappy multimeter.

Ohmed from the 9 pin to the 42 pin connector, everything was about 5 ohms, and #8 was reading 5.5 ohms.

*side note, should i be able to read ohms from between the injectors?

Doublechecked the passenger side, everything was below <4 ohms.

Seems like it could be something to do with idm, or are the ohms too high?

 

[Hydro]

Running a click test and listening closely to the injectors may give some hints -- if all the failures are on one bank, ...well

ForScan would be tool of choice

Also checking at the IDM connector for failures would be where I would start -- if you see a failure then proceed to the next connector and test again -- oftentimes "messing" with the connectors will mask a problem -- so a methodical approach is my goto

 

[kurtackerman74]

Check for a water leak at your windshield on drivers side or dry rotted electrical connections.
Mine had 2 bad wires and a water leak.

 

[idjmv]

New UVCH, everything seemed great. Buzz test sounded good, and i wasnt getting a SES light anymore. Truck was buttoned back together, and ran good for 15 ish mins when i was warming the engine up.

Right as i was about to leave, same problem happened again. Buzz test gave me the same codes, and injectors sounded very muffled.

Thinking my idm has a wire somewhere i didnt see the first time around, or is going bad.

 

[Hydro]

Sounds like it could be heat related in the IDM -- did you check it for water damage?

 

[NoRalPh]

Have you looked at the Wiring at all?

We have a common issue where, as the bundle of wires go from the 42-pin connector, to the UVCH, and routed Over the dr side valvecover, they will chafe against the valvecover. Underneath the bundle you might find spots where the insulation has warn-away and be giving you intermittent shorts.

 

[idjmv]

Looked at all the wires from the 42 pin to the UVCH. Nothing was chafed or anything. Will be checking the IDM tomorrow, and im gonna double check the wires from the 42 to the idm itself just in case.