[Falconeddie]

A little history. I have a 2002 F350SD 7.3 Diesel. Bought my truck to pull a 5th wheel. Did that for 17yrs. Not any more. I am not a mechanic. Having problems that I could use some help with. Truck died on the road. Towed to dealer. I was told they found no power to fuel pump, found CJB shorted. They replaced a 2C7Z*14A068*AA FUSE BOX ASSY. I left on vacation two days later. Now my batteries go dead before 24hrs. Door Ajar Light stays lit on the dash. Courtesy lights stay lit too long. Auto door lock & open doesn't work. Cannot unlock drivers door from passenger side. Brought it to another dealer and they said my batteries were bad. They could not test other problems. I'm buying 2 new batteries tomorrow. See where it goes from there. Any thoughts on my problems?
I am not a mechanic.

 

[NoRalPh]

A little history. I have a 2002 F350SD 7.3 Diesel. Bought my truck to pull a 5th wheel. Did that for 17yrs. Not any more.
I am not a mechanic.

Be aware, that the Diesel World has gone thru a Tremendous Change since your '02 was made

"Cheap" trucks are 75K and trips to the dealer costs owners of those new trucks 10K and more everyday at every dealership. Being a mechanic or not, maintenance and parts have become ridiculously difficult and expensive and have priced themselves out of the hands of most "regular guys" whos trucks aren't making them money.

I'd think long & hard before giving up on yours and, if you replace it be prepared for that new diesel world.

Batteries are Very Important for us, replace them with the best ones you can and see if it cures you electrical issues. If it doesn't, have someone look at this connector ->

POTENTIAL ELECTRICAL CORROSION if your truck is like...

FWIW...... Having spent a couple of afternoons trying to track-down my electrical problems last week -> http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-03-7-3-motor-problems/106049-injector-driver-relay-clicking-engine-dies.html I've found it was All due to the connection block at the top of the, drivers...

www.powerstroke.org

 

[Falconeddie]

Be aware, that the Diesel World has gone thru a Tremendous Change since your '02 was made

"Cheap" trucks are 75K and trips to the dealer costs owners of those new trucks 10K and more everyday at every dealership. Being a mechanic or not, maintenance and parts have become ridiculously difficult and expensive and have priced themselves out of the hands of most "regular guys" whos trucks aren't making them money.

I'd think long & hard before giving up on yours and, if you replace it be prepared for that new diesel world.

Batteries are Very Important for us, replace them with the best ones you can and see if it cures you electrical issues. If it doesn't, have someone look at this connector ->

POTENTIAL ELECTRICAL CORROSION if your truck is like...

FWIW...... Having spent a couple of afternoons trying to track-down my electrical problems last week -> http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-03-7-3-motor-problems/106049-injector-driver-relay-clicking-engine-dies.html I've found it was All due to the connection block at the top of the, drivers...

www.powerstroke.org

Ok, I've put in 2 new batteries. Other 2 had bad cells. I'll keep on them more closely. The new batteries did not have an affect on my other issues. Found and checked 1" sq. box and it was fine. Door Ajar Light stays lit on the dash. Courtesy lights stay lit for 10min after closing door. Opening passenger door does not turn on courtesy light as it should Auto door lock & open doesn't work. Cannot unlock drivers door from passenger side. All of these items seem to be related to the door ajar light. Any thoughts?

 

[NoRalPh]

Well,,, yea maybe, let's start with that switch. Often, all it takes is a little spray, couldn't hurt right?

Door ajar warning light On

My door ajar warning light stays on even though the doors are all shut tight. I understand this is a common problem with Excursions. What is the issue and how do I fix it? Thanks

www.powerstroke.org

 

[Falconeddie]

Tried that an "few" times. Has no affect. Don't know if I can remove all parts to replace part of latch that is bad. I'll ponder that.
Thanks for your help.
Ed

 

[Hydro]

Interesting that all this started with the dealer messing with the fuse box

@NoRalPh Vehicle security module or GEM on the back of the fuse box on this model ?

courtesy lights and door locks go thru it -- sounds like the module is not going into sleep mode
door latches may be the cause, ...but since the dealer was messing around the CJB, could have been more problems
Also may need to look at the harness in the door hinge area fro broken / shorted wires

 

[NoRalPh]

Yea so, no GEM in an '02. Nothing related between the Fusebox and the "Body Computer" anymore.

The basic GEM function were taken over by the Instrument Cluster. Trucks with accessories like central locking had an, additional module, the VSM located at the top of the transmission "hump", behind the radio, on the inside of the firewall.

I'm trying to think how a bad VSM could kill the batteries so quickly though. They could be unrelated and the draining batteries are the bigger issue I'd think.

So, to that end, I would next start to look for a parasitic draw from the components that have a history of doing this to us. First is the Alternator, disconnect it altogether and see if the battery level holds over time (Not driving it of course ). The other two components are the Radio and maybe the Cluster (although to drain 2 new, fully charged, batteries might be beyond that capability of the Cluster). Those too, one-at-a-time, can be tested by disconnecting.

After that, if disconnecting them doesn't change things, it's gets pretty complicated to isolate a draw, might be more than you want to take-on...

 

[Falconeddie]

Yea so, no GEM in an '02. Nothing related between the Fusebox and the "Body Computer" anymore.

The basic GEM function were taken over by the Instrument Cluster. Trucks with accessories like central locking had an, additional module, the VSM located at the top of the transmission "hump", behind the radio, on the inside of the firewall.

I'm trying to think how a bad VSM could kill the batteries so quickly though. They could be unrelated and the draining batteries are the bigger issue I'd think.

So, to that end, I would next start to look for a parasitic draw from the components that have a history of doing this to us. First is the Alternator, disconnect it altogether and see if the battery level holds over time (Not driving it of course ). The other two components are the Radio and maybe the Cluster (although to drain 2 new, fully charged, batteries might be beyond that capability of the Cluster). Those too, one-at-a-time, can be tested by disconnecting.

After that, if disconnecting them doesn't change things, it's gets pretty complicated to isolate a draw, might be more than you want to take-on...

I thought I mentioned that the batteries were confirmed to have bad cells. I have bought and installed 2 new ones. I do not have the issue of battery drain. (I think)

 

[NoRalPh]

You don't currently have have a battery drain issue then? It was only going dead with the bad batteries and no longer a problem with the new ones?

When you said "The new batteries did not have an affect on my other issues" I assumed that the drain was among them...

So now, the problem is strictly having to do with the Accessories and mostly having to do with the door locks & lights?

IF this is a VSM problem, you might have a lot of trouble replacing it as, I believe, they are no longer available and I'm not sure what the "work-around" might be. So, Yea,,, maybe dig in to the possibility that there might be a Wiring issue. We also have a bit of a history of chafing wires, going to the dr door, under the kick panel and mat, right below the parking brake release on the floor there. Maybe give that area a good inspection.

 

[Hydro]

You could check the door switch action at the VSM plug -- these diagrams may help
use a meter on the connector set to continuity (beeper) and open / close each door to see if the switches are working
this would test the switches and harness all the way to the doors
need to check the door harness in the hinge area -- wires wear and break there

One diagram shows connections to the VSM -- the other shows to the Instrument cluster

 

[DaveP.]

• Door Ajar Light stays lit on the dash.
• Courtesy lights stay lit for 10min after closing door.
• Opening passenger door does not turn on courtesy light as it should.

All the above hint at a bad door switch in the passenger door. (The courtesy lights go off on the battery-saver.)

You have to remove the door panel. Remove the latch assembly. Replace the switch. ($25 at the dealer.) About an hour job if you haven't done one before. No amount of spraying stuff into the latch area reaches the switch. You have to replace it.

 

[Falconeddie]

I

 

[Falconeddie]

All the above hint at a bad door switch in the passenger door. (The courtesy lights go off on the battery-saver.)

You have to remove the door panel. Remove the latch assembly. Replace the switch. ($25 at the dealer.) About an hour job if you haven't done one before. No amount of spraying stuff into the latch area reaches the switch. You have to replace it.

I'll have to find the video that showed what hardware there is. I don't own a lot of tools. We live in a 5th wheel on the road full time (but winter in TX). A video told what size tools to use. I'm sure I can get them or buy them. If I get that far then I'll order the part. Thanks again Ed
ps: does the boot in the door just snap in and out? I"ll chech those wires.

 

[DaveP.]

Remove the triangle piece that covers the mirror mounting. It pulls off.
Pull up the portion of the arm rest that holds the power window and door lock switches at the front, and slide forward. Un plug the switches. Remove the 8mm hex head screw that holds the door panel. At the rear of the space.
Gently pry out the red reflector and courtesy light lens. There is another 8mm hex screw behind the lens.
The door panel slides straight up for removal. The glass should be in the down position.

It's been 8 years since I had a door latch out of the truck. I don't remember too many specifics. Here's what I do remember:

You'll need some torx bits for the latch screws.
Put the glass back up.
You have to remove the outside door handle. Something about how the linkage to the latch is installed. The attaching nuts are on the inside, access through holes in the inner door structure.
There's some wiring connectors for the lock motor and the ajar switch.
I don't recall getting the latch out of the door cavity once it is off the door as being fussy.

Its not hard, but not completely fuss-free. You may or may not have exactly the tools required. Take the door panel off which is easy with a 8mm nut driver, and take a look.

 

[Falconeddie]

Remove the triangle piece that covers the mirror mounting. It pulls off.
Pull up the portion of the arm rest that holds the power window and door lock switches at the front, and slide forward. Un plug the switches. Remove the 8mm hex head screw that holds the door panel. At the rear of the space.
Gently pry out the red reflector and courtesy light lens. There is another 8mm hex screw behind the lens.
The door panel slides straight up for removal. The glass should be in the down position.

It's been 8 years since I had a door latch out of the truck. I don't remember too many specifics. Here's what I do remember:

You'll need some torx bits for the latch screws.
Put the glass back up.
You have to remove the outside door handle. Something about how the linkage to the latch is installed. The attaching nuts are on the inside, access through holes in the inner door structure.
There's some wiring connectors for the lock motor and the ajar switch.
I don't recall getting the latch out of the door cavity once it is off the door as being fussy.

Its not hard, but not completely fuss-free. You may or may not have exactly the tools required. Take the door panel off which is easy with a 8mm nut driver, and take a look.

 

[Falconeddie]

thanks