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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, new to the power stroke community. I bought a 2003 f250 4x4 lariat 6.0 with 151,000 miles on it for $1200. Not a bad deal and I figured I couldn’t go wrong for the price. As it stands now it runs, sound healthy at idle and revs up no issues.... in drive it won’t go past 1500 rpm even with the pedal to the floor. Has new batteries, a new alternator, cleaned the egr valve, check ficm and has 48.2 volts with key on, while cranking, and while running. Have cleaned the tube to the map sensor, cleaned the EBP sensor and tube. No codes, no boost leaks. I’ve searched and haven’t been able to find someone with this exact problem. Keep in mind this is a one owner, older lady owned truck that was serviced regularly and had work performed at Ford dealership. Does anyone have another suggestion for me to check?
767034
 

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Nope, not fixable. I'll give you $900 for it. That way it won't be taking up space in your driveway
-These 6 ohs have a temperament. Get a Bluetooth obd dongle, download forscan to a windows laptop/tablet, or an android phone/tablet (windows is preferred). You can scan for codes and monitor engine parameters with it.
-Do you have a check engine light?
-is the truck deleted?
 

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As recommended above, get ForScan. You can even get the ForScan Lite version on a smartphone for $5.

Without data, all we can do is guess. Checking for codes requires a "capable" code reader. Many cheap scan tools do not pull codes well. ForScan does.

You have given us some data, but more is needed.

Once you get ForScan, please read the MAP and Baro parameters at KOEO.

Then get the temperature readings AFTER the truck has been sitting (without the engine running) for 12 hours. get the following parameter values:
ECT (coolant temp)
EOT (oil temp)
TFT (transmission temp)
IAT1 (intake air - fresh air temp)
IAT2 (intake manifold temp)

Then, start the engine and retrieve cold idle information:
ICP pressure
ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
VGT % duty cycle
MAP pressure
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Truck is bone stock, I will look for the forscan and see what I come up with and post results. Seems to me it has to be something electrical but who knows.
 

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Idk, I'm throwing this out, maybe someone will know....
Can this be caused by the throttle position sensor?
 

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Please post the data requested.

Also you have 3 accelerator pedal position sensors. Triple redundancy. Hard to imagine it would be them and you almost certainly would get a code.
 

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Normally when I see something like this, I think either no, or limited, boost or plugged exhaust. Like the engine can't breathe under load. Most of my experience in this area is with gassers though.
Is there any soot around the firewall, around the exhaust exit or on the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No soot around anywhere, everything looks fairly clean. Did find a rats nest from the truck sitting. Found two plugs with chewed wires on passenger side fender well. Will post pics once I’m home. One goes to just a plastic cap, other has another plug with a wire looping it back. Don’t have a clue what they’re for
 

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By your description that's likely the starter jumper wire and the dual alt. harness wire and not part of your issue. Pics will help to verify.

Like bismic said, numbers will help. There are many reasons why you could have this issue so if you want a correct diagnosis, help us help you along the way. If you want to throw parts at it and guess, I could tell you my sister's boyfriend's brother had the same issue and it was the fuel filters and that cleared everything up and he's got 400k miles and has never had an issue.

You got a hell of a deal for $1200, I'm jealous!
 

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That crossed my mind but it revs up like normal in the parked position
Revs up "with authority" like a 6.0, or revs up kinda like a Prius? -- I mean, does it feel like it has power in neutral?
assuming you have a auto trans? How does it do in Rev?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It has sat for a while before I purchased so while I wait for the forscan I’m going to change fuel filters. Will post pics of chewed wires in a couple hrs
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Alright, so these are the 2 plugs that were chewed through. I can solder the black plug back to existing wires but the grey plug looks like I need to replace... anyone have a clue what this plug can be ?
767066
767067
 

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I have had critter damage three times this spring, I understand your pain
The plug with the loop is for the second alternator, just connect the loop wires back together and tape it up -- you dont need the connector
some say Red Fox urine will keep the critters away
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update for you guys.... went out and bought a scan2 . I ended up realizing the turbo was not spooling and creating boost. Took the turbo off and the canes were frozen halfway open. So took some time and cleaned everything out and put back together. Cleared codes and no more issues. Great power and that great 6.0 whistle. Next is keeping eye on my gauges and seeing if there’s any more issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright well here goes, got truck up and running. Warmed up took for a 60 miles round trip. Scan guage 2 shows eot and ect about 27-32 degress apart. Take it that’s an egr cooler to replace. Also, turbo doesn’t seem to be boosting as it should 17 psi at wot. Showing codes p0264, p0673 and p0677. Help!
 

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Eot and ect being that far apart points to a plugged oil cooler. A delete kit for the egr would be appropriate while doing the oil cooler. A remote mount oil cooler kit with pre-filter is a good idea.
I'm guessing the boost limit is a leak in the CAC system. If you have the plastic cold side pipe, I'd be looking at, nah just replacing with metal, that first, next would be the CAC boots. The truck has been mostly sitting, so it's possible to have rot or cracks in the boots.
 
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