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I have an 02 7.3. Recently had alot of work done...oil pan, water pump, oil cooler, up pipes, manifolds, boots, EBPV delete, turbo rebuild, Banks Bighead, IPR valve, as well as boost, EGT, and trans gauges. Anyway, when in stock mode I have no problem keeping the turbo boost in a safe range and have no turbo surge. However in any other setting like daily driver or fuel supper the turbo spools quite fast and it's no problem to get 30 psi and lots of surge. When I installed the Bighead, I unthreaded it just enough to attach to the waste gate actuator post. But it's my understanding that most folks turn it 5 to 7 revolutions to make the arm shorter. I would like to limit the amount of boost I can build but I thought shortening the arm would do the opposite. Advice?
 

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You need a billet compressor wheel to cure turbo surge.
 

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You need a billet compressor wheel to cure turbo surge.
Agreed, but what about setting a limit on boost? I'd like to limit it around 25 psi +/-, which I understand is ideal on a stock turbo. I don't want to buy another housing.
 

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Agreed, but what about setting a limit on boost? I'd like to limit it around 25 psi +/-, which I understand is ideal on a stock turbo. I don't want to buy another housing.
I put over 50K on a stock turbo with a billet wheel maxing out at 30-32 psi, the turbo was still in great shape when I pulled it out to install my KC turbo. Put a billet wheel in it and let it work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Agreed, but what about setting a limit on boost? I'd like to limit it around 25 psi +/-, which I understand is ideal on a stock turbo. I don't want to buy another housing.
I put over 50K on a stock turbo with a billet wheel maxing out at 30-32 psi, the turbo was still in great shape when I pulled it out to install my KC turbo. Put a billet wheel in it and let it work.
Ordered from RiffRaff
 

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Back when I had my stock turbo, I installed a Dieselsite WW2 billet wheel and tightened the stock WG actuator arm so that the WG couldn’t open and it was the best thing that I did. Egts dropped and my boost maxed out about 30-32psi. Turbo was in great shape when it came out.
 

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Figured I should wrap up this post. I did it the hard way and removed the turbo to install the wheel...won't do that again. Anyway the wheel completely addressed the surge issue. Gave the arm for the big head 6 turns while I was at it. Can do 30 psi with no surge. Thanks guys.
 

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I pulled my turbo to install WW2 and Big Head. I can't imagine installing the wastegate without removing the turbo! I feel like it's the only way to do it.
 

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I pulled my turbo to install WW2 and Big Head. I can't imagine installing the wastegate without removing the turbo! I feel like it's the only way to do it.
Agreed. To get the rear turbo clamp back on correctly I installed the turbo intake housing afterwards. I premounted the wastegate actuator to the housing and the used a long pry bar to push on the nut on the actuator arm/rod to extend it over the wastegate post on the passenger side end. There is no darn way to get your hands or vicegrips in there for leverage, but the pry bar worked well. I backed the nut up the threads a bit just in case I marked them up. The trouble is that I coubldt get the tiny clip back on top of the post. However I figured if I can bench 250 but can't move that arm by hand, it's not going to come off.
 

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Agreed. To get the rear turbo clamp back on correctly I installed the turbo intake housing afterwards. I premounted the wastegate actuator to the housing and the used a long pry bar to push on the nut on the actuator arm/rod to extend it over the wastegate post on the passenger side end. There is no darn way to get your hands or vicegrips in there for leverage, but the pry bar worked well. I backed the nut up the threads a bit just in case I marked them up. The trouble is that I coubldt get the tiny clip back on top of the post. However I figured if I can bench 250 but can't move that arm by hand, it's not going to come off.
I made this mistake thinking that the arm wouldn't come off. I couldn't get that clip in at first as well due to the angle and having to reach back there. It didn't pop off until I decided to tow up steady grade up the 395 in eastern California. The arm was a ***** to get back on over the post while on the side of the road and kept popping off during the 2 hour climb leaving me without a turbo each time the arm popped off. Get some needle nose pliers and a flat head screw driver to assist in pushing. Add some lube and get that clip on before your turbo leaves you gutless.
 
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