Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

Huge dent in bed (Jack Knifed)

9143 Views 64 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  350factor

So when I bought my truck not long ago I had to deal with the previous owners trailer back up problem. So my question is...How do I get the son of a gun knocked out. I was tempted to use a big effing hammer but honestly this is my first good body work of this nature. I'd like to put new flares on but this huge thing kind of inhibits that. Doesn't have to be perfectly flat and flush, but would like it to look like there isn't a big dent from afar. I don't want to bring it to a body shop cause this is how you learn to do things yourself. Awesome site by the way. i have been on here none stop. I'm addicted so far.

See less See more
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
no bondo actually. I looked on the back side of the metal and saw no damage that would indicate previous work. It's really the only thing that bothers me about the truck.
So what are we looking at here a the big hammer? I have seen some videos of dents being pulled out but not to this size.
350factor, where are you located, i know a guy right outside of Richmond, VA that does mobile dent removal for a living. If you're close i can give you his number. Best I've ever seen, he does it and alot of the time you can't even see where it was.
Argh! I just moved from Chesapeake, VA. (Really , like not very long ago) About couple hours south of Richmond. I'm in Augusta, GA now. I really appreciate the offer too.
You could posibly rent a stud welder and a slid hammer and get 95 % of it out .Then all you will have to is spread very little body filler to get it back slick. BAH will cause way more damage in the long run than it is worth.
Okay. See I kind of figured a hefty hammer would do more damage. Now I have a 220v MIG welder myself. Is there anything I can utilize what I have now. I always need accessories to buy. That's how we all accumulate the tools right?
I'll still check with him. See if he knows anybody down in your area. He is actually part of a franchise.
Friggin sweet. Heck another said to try out a slide hammer to pull. I'll do most to all the work just to learn anything. I'm looking to see if any attachments to a MIG welder can do the same. Thanks BENTLEY1110 for the help already.
Thank you. I can't take credit as i did not 'invent' that saying but i have always liked it and will sure as heck live up to it.
is it not why there are Fords. hehehe. Yes i just made my first forum Ford plug. Cherry broken. K back to being on topic.

Slide hammer use. Any tips. I gather from just assuming is you work from the out side of the dent inward to the center????
Deflate a basketball put it up in ther and then reinflate it.. it should pop most of it out..
hmm basketball, i may do that. Has this been actually done? can the inflector needle hold the pressure and keep from popping out? Toys r us is going to get a weird guy walking in with a project.
You know what, I am so interested I am going to do the basketball thing now.
Im not an expert ,but it looks like there was some damage that has already been fixed. Looks like a lot of bondo in there now. I would order new bed skin and fix it my self, then take to body shop get them to respray that fender for like 1/3 of the money...
Anyone know where i can get replacement panels or at least the half i need? I could not find a bed in the junk yards i have gone to that would fit or has usable panels.

TANKERYANKER01 you are a smart guy. Took truck to body shop and quoted $1900 for a full fix entire side replacement, paint, and all. There was previous work that a professional must have done cause i couldn't see a lick of anything. Guess that shows my inability of knowledge.
YEAH!! I found a 2001 F250 7.3 parting out near, i will be picking up the bed for $350. Then the body shop has a general quote for $500 paint job. Anyone see any reason why the bed will not fit my 2003 f350. both are long bed. I am pretty sure they will fit right up. Thanks.

UPDATE: Basketball did not work. panel is pushed to far in and the electric pump probably didn't have the ummff to pressurize the basketball
Update: Bought the bed for $300. also came with tail lights and the tail gate with the "SUPERDUTY" embossed in it and also has a handle that folds up to help you get in. Spent some time pressure washing I'll get pictures. Threads are no fun without pictures.
Well once i get off work here (been working all weekend) I will snap some pictures. Most of my work happens at night so it's tough to see or look at what i really have. I'll check for that pull out steps. Glad to see what the guy didn't know what he had.
Well here is the idea i had at work. Instead of replacing the entire tub and paint to match. I am gong to remove the passenger bed panel and replace the damaged bed panel. Then all i have to do is pay for the paint work for one side. Or attempt to paint myself. I have included some pictures of the truck now and the replacement bed for parting. Oh and that tailgate does have the step too. a little rough but i need to replace that FORD emblem on the back take care of a few deep scratches, replace the top plastic parts and I am in business.

Anyone drill out there bed panels and run into any hidden spot welds?

See less See more
I'm going to go ahead and just keep posting as this will be write up to remove the bedside body panel. I just started but thought i would post up some pics. Pictures will be in order as i explain.
For reference we are looking at the underside wheel well.
-First thing is to locate the spot welds. Center of the picture you can see the faint circle outline of the spot weld.
-Second, I bought a spot weld cutter that looks like a mini hole saw with a needle in the middle as a guide
-Third, I drilled a hole for the needle to be used as a guide and took the spot weld cutter and very so carefully cut through the first sheet of metal. DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE SECOND SHEET OF METAL!!
-Fifth, I used a dull wood chisel to tap between the two sheets of metal to separate them.

I am in the process to continue and i will do a more detailed write up. But that is the basic removal at this point.

*to be continued*

See less See more
I got the bedside off. Quite simple really. Using the process WITHOUT CUTTING ALL THE WAY THROUGH!!! I had this off in a couple hours. Lets begin:

Remove the spot welds along the backside of the bed near the cab.

Next, Remove your tail lamp and remove the spot welds along the edge where the tails gate latches.

Directly below the tail lights is a few spot welds where the indentation is for the rear bumper.

If you have the bed rail plastic caps i have heard they are i pain to remove, trying to get pliers to pinch the tabs underneath. Well i so happen to use this "Composite/Wood pry bar" for wood flooring. Works like a champ to lift off the plastic caps. Just a little soft loving pry and the tabs pop out. I also used my mallet to keep the cap from falling back into place.

Once the cap is off I continued to remove the spot welds along the rail. After everything was all said and done. I wiggled the crud out of the bedside and found a few points still attached. Off comes the bedside.

and the bed without the panel
See less See more
So it was still daylight out and i wanted to get a jump start on the panel to be removed off the truck. I only drilled holes in under the wheel well, tail gate and tail lamp area, and then along the bed rail. I have not drilled the spot welds between the bed and cab yet. I work some crazy hours so this will have to be put on hold for a few days. It'll be dark by the time i can do work. so without further adieu...


See less See more
I replaced the bedside and paint is all that needs to be done. I had a horrible ground issue with the mig welder and had some spotty welds. Needless to say a grinder will make the troubles go away. I moved the bed off tilt some cause last time i took the bed off myself was a workout. Once again to put the bedside on is the reverse process of taking it off. It seemed to be a 1/8 to a 1/4 larger all around. It could have been the flanges just needed some pounding but it all worked out.

New Bedside on:

The spotty welds do hold but not a very clean look. A grinder will fix this.

All done. Now needs Paint. I think I will do that myself. Attempt a spray can paint job. If not It'll be an experience of "I tried".

By the way i sanded down the clear coat for now I need to purchase some primer and matched color to the truck paint too.

See less See more
Wow!!! No comments. Either I'm starting to think you all are not much to fabricate and would rather spend on aftermarket parts or someone else to do it OR i somehow have offended the Powerstroke forum populace. lol. I have been fabricating my 1994 Wrangler for a couple years now and have taken the same mentality to the my truck. Well I'll keep on keeping on. Still a great site and still looking to add to the forums to help.
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.