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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 04 6.0 with late style oil rails and early style pump. I was driving it a week ago and it just died throwing a p2290 code. It will crank for about 30 seconds and dies. Will not throttle up. Ipr is 450-500 icp is .24v ficm is 47.5-48v. I have just replaced the icp and ipr 2 days ago. I air leak tested it yesterday and at first heard a leak but couldn’t figure out exactly where it was coming from. I do have the valve cover off. I unhooked the hose and hooked it back up for over an hour and never heard anything. Could the hpop be very weak? I put headstuds and gaskets with and egr delete less than 5000 mile ago and have had no trouble till now. The oil guage on dash shows normal oil pressure within seconds of cranking. Please give me some help I’m about to pull my hair out. Thanks
 

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Remove the oil filter cap and filter and then repeat the air test.

A bad HPOP will frequently have air leakage detectable at the oil filter housing (or turbo oil drain tube).
 

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Have you listened from the oil fill tube and the ccv opening? Sometimes you need to listen w/ a hose, or better yet an automotive stethoscope.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes sir I have. I did that and then pulled the valve covers off hoping I could hear something better. Only air I could hear was very faint for just a few seconds and it quit. Best I could tell maybe was coming from the pump area. I tried the air test again last night for about 30 minutes and couldn’t hear anything.
 

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Are you doing the air test through the ICP or the IPR port?
What brand ICP sensor and IPR valve?
What does the pigtail to the ICP look like? Oily? Frayed?
Was the screen intact when you pulled the IPR?
Have you tried cranking with the ICP unplugged?
The early pumps are more prone to failure. How many miles on it?
Since you have been in the engine recently, a nicked injector or standpipe o-ring is also a valid culprit.

Just thoughts. @bismic is a lot better at internet diagnosis than I am.
 

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It is always easier to find leaks by doing the leak test w/ a hot engine, but clearly that isn't always possible.

If you are getting around 450 psig ICP pressure when cranking, then the ICP voltage should be around 0.7 volts.

Clearly you have something else going on to cause it to die while driving, but did you install an OEM ICP sensor?
When you replaced the ICP sensor, did you closely inspect the wiring to the connector?

Edit - nice post G8orFord! Better (and more timely) than mine!
 
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
At first I air tested through the icp. Now I’m going through the ipr. Everything I’ve installed I’ve went with motor craft. The truck has 157000 miles and I did the head gaskets at 152000. It has never given me any problems till it just died. I’m using Rotella t6 with archoil. The pigtail looks good. I have not tried to crank with the icp or ipr unplugged. The screen on the original ipr had a little trash on it but very little. Inside looked good. I put 12 volts to it and clicked very faintly. I have not tried that with the new one. I replaced the standpipes and dummy plugs when I put it back together. This is going to drive me nuts. Thanks very much for all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK maybe I found something. I had my wife crank over while i watched the oil filter housing. Plenty of oil pressure. So then rehooked air back to the ipr and immediately could hear gurgling out of oil filter housing. So what I’m thinking thanks to bismic is high pressure oil pump is bad. Please tell me that’s the problem. Thanks very much.
 

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Glad to help - that is the tell-tale sign of a bad HPOP.

Lots of debates (unnecessary ones IMO) on other forums about what to go back in with. IMO there really are only a couple of choices worth considering (but they are more expensive than OEM or the cheap autoparts store pumps).

1. Dieselsite pump (slightly higher than stock output or the Adrenaline upgrade if you are needing big horsepower)
2. Upgraded HPOP from CNCFab (they may or may not have one in stock)

If you just can't afford one of those "more expensive pumps", then I would go back in w/ a motorcraft pump. Several recent threads about how it isn't "that big of deal" to replace an HPOP if you go w/ a cheaper one that has a lifetime warranty, but it isn't the easiest install - especially if out-of-town, in cold weather, etc. Even the troubleshooting to know for sure that it is an HPOP isn't always simple - usually involves a fair amount of labor.

Again - JMHO.
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I will definitely go back with motorcraft parts on everything. I only want to do this once. I don’t really wed anything more than stock. I have a straight pipe that’s the only thing not stock on the truck. That’s my inner redneck in me. It’s just a regular cab 4x4 dually with an 11’ flatbed kind of a service truck for the farm and work. I really thank you for all the help. I owe you a cold beverage of your choice. Would you suggest replacing the j tube also?
 

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Corey's pump (CNCFab) is an upgraded pump to correct the failure points if the OEM option and it's not much more than the OEM pump. I like using OEM parts too, but when there's an aftermarket option that's a true upgrade, I'm open to it.
@[email protected] can explain the upgrades in the pump better.
 

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Corey's pump (CNCFab) is an upgraded pump to correct the failure points if the OEM option and it's not much more than the OEM pump. I like using OEM parts too, but when there's an aftermarket option that's a true upgrade, I'm open to it.
@[email protected] can explain the upgrades in the pump better.
What he said^^^

OEM reman pumps are lackluster. Electrical parts like ICP and IPR's are necessary though.

My pumps are upgraded with the steel wear plate in the back of the housing. I do have them in stock and they are all bench tested for no DOA pumps.

CNC Fabrication 6.0L 03-04 Stage 1 HPOP - 6.0-EHPOP-STG1

www.cncfab.us
 

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I meant to include a link.
The pump
 
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What he said^^^

OEM reman pumps are lackluster. Electrical parts like ICP and IPR's are necessary though.

My pumps are upgraded with the steel wear plate in the back of the housing. I do have them in stock and they are all bench tested for no DOA pumps.

CNC Fabrication 6.0L 03-04 Stage 1 HPOP - 6.0-EHPOP-STG1

www.cncfab.us
@[email protected] - do you recommend any specific priming procedures for your pump prior to start-up? Can lack of priming cause early failure?
 

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corey is a good guy and will take care of you...good hav=nds and all that.
if it makes you feel better i learned the hard way by buying an orealies pump..
lasted one week outside of warranty... :doh:
corey wasn't building his upgraded pumps yet so i got a terminator and its been excellent for years...
but i would have gone with corey had it been an option at the time so again good hands and know you are doing this the easy way :rofl:
 
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corey is a good guy and will take care of you...good hav=nds and all that.
if it makes you feel better i learned the hard way by buying an orealies pump..
lasted one week outside of warranty
... :doh:
corey wasn't building his upgraded pumps yet so i got a terminator and its been excellent for years...
but i would have gone with corey had it been an option at the time so again good hands and know you are doing this the easy way :rofl:
OH NO John - don't let anyone from FTE hear you say that >:)

I did think that theirs was a lifetime warranty though. I also do not think the terminator pump for the 6.0L is still offered. Do you know if it still is?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I try to only buy from carquest or Napa. I’ll buy a few things from Oreilly and never from auto zone. I’d rather spend my money with small businesses that are American owned even if I spend a little more.
 
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