[Edrooker]

Disconnect the oil switch and use a wire to short the single contact in the connector to batt ground. The needle on the gauge should move up to "normal". If it does, your sender is bad or you have a bad connection to it. ...and I don't care if it's new. If it stays down, you need to take a close look at your harness.

For the harness... With the truck running, you can push on the harness with a stick or some other non-conductive thing at different locations to see if you can get the needle to jump. If you can, whatever/wherever you pushed on last is the problem.

To your point with the harness, so I have an 04 f250, I put it back together after rolling it over (new cab and bed) had some minor wiring issues reverse lights stay on, blend door doesn’t actuate (I replaced the vacuum pump and module), fuel gauge isn’t working likely the wire in the tank, now to my current issue. I drive it for about a week since getting it together, ran smooth no hiccups, I dropped my daughter off with her mother and left the truck running (20 min) after a 30 min drive, I went to pull out of the parking lot made it 10 car links and it killed out cold, turns over like there’s no load, oil pressure gauge isn’t building. Got it home tore it down after doing a few pressure checks found a hole in the ipr screen. Went ahead and installed motorcraft sensor, hpop, o rings etc. got it fired up let it run getting all the air out of the system ran smooth for 30 min then shut off, fired it back up and feathered the throttle, stayed running and I pulled it back in the shop it shut off again and fired right back so I moved to under the hood and started to install the intake and the piping shifted the harness across the top of the motor by the oil/fuel filter housing and it shut off, so I fired it back up and touched the harness and it killed out, I looked over the loom in that area and saw no damaged wiring and have been unable to restart it, I am hearing that crank over like there is no load behind it like it did the day it killed out on me on the road. Any help would be great or ideas, maybe I am overlooking something? Thanks all

 

[bismic]

Get ForScan on a smartphone or laptop, buy the appropriate OBDII adapter, and scan for codes.

The codes may point out the circuit that is shutting you down.

 

[mlgjellybean123]

Codes for sure.

If no circuit codes, then you're gonna have to provide some info while cranking and KOEO

But, I'd want to know what put a hole in the IPR screen. It's possible it happened again. Any recent work where the oil could have gotten contaminated?

 

[Hydro]

...shifted the harness across the top of the motor by the oil/fuel filter housing and it shut off, so I fired it back up and touched the harness and it killed out, I looked over the loom in that area and saw no damaged wiring and have been unable to restart it, ...Any help would be great or ideas, maybe I am overlooking something? Thanks all

I think you have already found the problem in the harness, ...maybe look closer

 

[bismic]

I believe the harness described goes to the fan clutch (most likely to be the issue, and it would throw a code), EGR valve, IAT, EBP. Instead of tearing into the harness immediately, I would first want to know what circuit was impacted. Moving that harness might actually cause movement at a connector, which would be better to address before opening up the harness.

Edit - I guess i read that wrong! It was the IPR harness that you MOVED to the filter area!

 

[Edrooker]

Get ForScan on a smartphone or laptop, buy the appropriate OBDII adapter, and scan for codes.

The codes may point out the circuit that is shutting you down.

Update, so after researching some more, most folks when they change the sensor they change the plug as well, so I just looked that over and sure enough the wire it’s broken at the plug it was behind the heat wrap is why I couldn’t find it! And about the scanner my buddy was using his snap on scanner and it wasn’t showing the circuit it was showing fine and I didn’t run into issues until he left. Which would explain that.

 

[Edrooker]

I believe the harness described goes to the fan clutch (most likely to be the issue, and it would throw a code), EGR valve, IAT, EBP. Instead of tearing into the harness immediately, I would first want to know what circuit was impacted. Moving that harness might actually cause movement at a connector, which would be better to address before opening up the harness.

If I could figure out how to post a video I would get that out there for a good visual, after taking a look this evening and reading up some more throughout the day I didn’t remove a lot of the loom about 10 inches in the area I assumed the problem was coming from, so I will get that tied back up tomorrow when I get my new plug!

 

[Edrooker]

I think you have already found the problem in the harness, ...maybe look closer

after taking a look this evening and reading up some more throughout the day I noticed a lot of guys replacing the connector for the ipr when they change it. So I moved to the back and after removing the heat wrap sure enough the wire was broken but not completely which would answer my question as to why it wouldn’t throw a code but would act like it has been for me. I didn’t remove a lot of the loom about 10 inches in the area I assumed the problem was coming from, so I will get that tied back up tomorrow when I get my new plug! Thank you for your input as well!

 

[Edrooker]

Codes for sure.

If no circuit codes, then you're gonna have to provide some info while cranking and KOEO

But, I'd want to know what put a hole in the IPR screen. It's possible it happened again. Any recent work where the oil could have gotten contaminated?

If I could figure out how to post a video I would get that out there for a good visual, after taking a look this evening and reading up some more throughout the day I noticed a lot of guys replacing the connector for the ipr when they change it. So I moved to the back and after removing the heat wrap sure enough the wire was broken but not completely which would answer my question as to why it wouldn’t throw a code but would act like it has been for me. I didn’t remove a lot of the loom about 10 inches in the area I assumed the problem was coming from, so I will get that tied back up tomorrow when I get my new plug! Thank you for your input as well! I wouldn’t be surprised if the trash came from the rollover and being left upside down a couple hours. I haven’t flushed the system yet but I will do it once I get it cranked this go round

 

[Hydro]

Post your vid to youtube, then post that link in this forum

Sounds like the large heat shield bolted to the back of the engine may have been removed -- get an aluminum pie plate , seriously, and form it over the IPR so the heat from the exhaust is shielded

Enjoy the pie as you contemplate the cozy house the IPR will live in away from the heat

 

[Edrooker]

Post your vid to youtube, then post that link in this forum

Sounds like the large heat shield bolted to the back of the engine may have been removed -- get an aluminum pie plate , seriously, and form it over the IPR so the heat from the exhaust is shielded

Enjoy the pie as you contemplate the cozy house the IPR will live in away from the heat

Hahahaha I will have to do that! Thanks for the tip brother!