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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've had a squeaking going on and brought it in today to get checked out. I have a seized rear caliper and I'm told that I need to replace the rear rotors, calipers, and brake pads. I drive a steep 10% grade pass every day, and would like to upgrade the rotors to something that will dissipate the heat a little better. How hard is it to replace these parts, and what recommendations to you have for a rotor/caliper upgrade? I've been calling around and have been getting prices from $1000-$650 for the parts/labor and if it's not too hard would like to replace them myself. Are any special tools needed?
 

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The job is simple.
Take your tire off break loose bleeder, loosen Cal bolt, Remove. Remove disc Reverse process..

Make sure to bleed the breaks. Pump,pump,pump hold brake petal down while someone releases the bleeder line and shoot air and fluid out. Do this until you just get fluid, No air. Maybe once, Maybe 4 times.

Call some aftermarket diesel places, Order slotted disc's.
Check the vendor list
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. Any other tips out there?
 

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It's a little more envolved than what Bryan said, but he hit the high points. A brake job is a fairly easy thing to do if you have basic mechanical skills and tools. If you have never done a brake job before I would suggest somebody help you for the first time. The reason why your caliper froze, is poor maintenance. Our calipers slide on pins, these pins need to be removed, cleaned and relubed, when this isn't done you get a stuck or frozen caliper. You can usually free it up with some heat. I could list the step by step procedure for the brake job but I am going to refrain and I hope others will as well. I am not trying to be a jerk, but you claim you drive a 10% grade, I am not going to be responsible for you killing yourself, brakes are something you need to understand a little, that is why I recommend a expierenced helper. If you were close I would do it for you as a teaching session.
You don't need upgraded calipers!!!! The stock units are fine if properly maintained. Now the rotos, they are junk. If you want the best rotors go with the cyro treated powerslots with LTS Hawks pads and you won't be sorry. I would put these up front since they do the vast majority of the braking, for the rear I would just get stock replacements, unless you have money to spend. I also doubt you need a rear rotor, techs like to replace rotors on every brake job. Again you need someone with some knowledge to walk you through this. Make you sure you lube all caliper slide pins with dielectric grease (caliper grease) I am not trying to talk you out of doing this yourself, actually the opposite as I wouldn't trust any mechanic to do the job properly either, but that's me. If you can't free the frozen caliper slide pin then go to Napa and get their rebuilt caliper, stay away from Auto zone and places like that. If it has been longer than 2 years since your brake fluid has been flushed, now is a good time to do it. You will need a little over 3 quarts to flush the entire system. Remember start with pass rear, drivers rear, pass front and last, drivers front. If you have any ? just PM or email me.

NCH
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks NCHornet. Unfortunately I don't know anybody that is willing to help me, so I think I've decided to leave it to the professionals as this could be a life threatening procedure if I don't get it right and I sure don't want to drive off of a mountain pass. It would be great if someone on the forum lived in the area to give me a hand-I like doing as much work as I can do myself but might need a little guidance on this one.
 

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Post a thread in the HELP section something like " Need Help in Jackson WY" as I said if I was close I would do the job with you. I can probably walk you through the job, but I just don't feel comfortable not being there personally. If you take it someplace make sure they understand Ford Superduties and how to properly lube Ford calipers, to much lube can be as bad as not enough. I would order the rotors and pads yourself and bring them to the shop. As I said before put the powerslots and hawks up front, you can stay stock in the rear. Let me know if you have any ?
NCH
 
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