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Discussion Starter #1
This thing runs so smooth now and my boost is crazy high when I floor it. I should have done this when I bought it like I was planning to. I'm very happy with it. So, the only parts that aren't new are the tensioner and the two idler pulleys so I decided to change them out. Two of them started squealing after putting 70 miles on it. Was really a workout taking them T50 bolts out but I got them all. The shroud doesn't leave much room. I replaced the top idler today and WOW, so tight I thought for a moment "I wonder if I crossed threaded this" I sure had a bad feeling about it but it finally tightened and I got it torqued to 32 ft. lb. I cleaned the tensioner and grooved idler bolts with WD40 and now I'm wondering if anyone knowledgeable here can tell me if I can do the same to the threaded holes without mucking things up? I'm hoping to loosen them up and make it easier to screw back in. Also, after cleaning them is it advisable to use locktite on them or would that be overkill? Thanks
 

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Use a thread chaser, not tap. You can use bore brushes to loosen up rust and debris. Steel bore brushes are not recommended to clean threads in soft metals like aluminum.

Proper torque is all you need but if you must use a thread locker then use blue loctite.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. I had a plan that I would WD40 in the holes and let it soak about 30 min. and then use this nylon brush I have had sitting in the tool box, for the last few years, to use a scrubbing action and then clean up with WD40 and call it good. This brush is about the size of a Qtip. I think the treads are fine. The mechanic said he used red Loctite when he put them on so I'm thinking that's what made them very hard to unscrew and why it was tough getting the first idler back on.
 

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Yeah red loctite on a pulley can cause bigger issues. Torque specs are there for a reason and when properly done there's no need for a thread locker.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I won't be using any but this engine block is still 25 years old and I'm the second owner so I'm sure I'm not the only one having to change a squeaky idler and probably my mechanic wasn't the first to use Loctite. I just don't know why the two day acid soak the block had didn't break it loose. I think it was gummed up in the thread holes over the years. I just hope I can get enough broken loose to make assembly mush easier.
 

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Chasing the threads would help you out in this case. Chase them and then use the brush and something to flush them out. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: those bolts went in so easy I was able to tread them by finger. I was able to get a torque wrench on the tensioner but the lower idler I wasn't able to get it on so I got it as tight as I could with a breaker bar and then took a rubber mallet and whacked it and it moved a little more. Hope that was enough tightening but I'll keep an eye on it for a while just to make sure it hasn't loosened on me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Chasing the threads would help you out in this case. Chase them and then use the brush and something to flush them out. Cheers!
Thanks for the advice. I'll remember it if I ever get another problem bolt. Got it all back together and getting ready to go out and put some more breakin miles on her.
 
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