Yeah, I've flushed mine many many many times. The flush adapter from FixUr6 has been critical in keeping it in check. I think some of the reason is using a flush at some point and then switching to CAT ELC has helped break up some of the casting sand and rust. Anyhow, gotta keep it up. Is your filter after the oil cooler or do you also have the remote oil cooler from IPR?
How much sand is in these 6.0 blocks???
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I've had my 05' F250 truck since 2017...picked it up with around 200K miles on it. I went through and flushed the coolant system, installed a new OEM motorcraft oil cooler, and added an IPR high flow coolant filter shortly after I got it. Since then I've cleaned out the coolant filter ever year....and it's always been full of sand. Just did it again tonight after a total of 60K miles and 6 years. It was still fill of sand...lots of sand.
After 18 years of service, at least once coolant flush (if not more), and a brand new oil cooler....I'm still getting tons of sand and grit picked up in the coolant filter. How much sand are in these blocks? How in the hell am I still picking up sand in the filter after a coolant flush (if not multiple), and coolant filter, and 18 years of use?
I would have thought that by now, all of the "casting sand" would have been flushed out of the block by now.
Thoughts?
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After 18 years of service, at least once coolant flush (if not more), and a brand new oil cooler....I'm still getting tons of sand and grit picked up in the coolant filter. How much sand are in these blocks? How in the hell am I still picking up sand in the filter after a coolant flush (if not multiple), and coolant filter, and 18 years of use?
I would have thought that by now, all of the "casting sand" would have been flushed out of the block by now.
Thoughts?
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My coolant temp and oil temp never go beyond a 7 degree difference so perhaps I'll just install the Mishimoto coolant bypass filter and leave it at that?
Engine has egr delete and big aluminum tank setup for better oil cooling or something like that.
I should really post up a bunch of Engine pictures to get some feedback from all you way more experienced fellas here
You could do that, nothing wrong with a seven degree delta. You could also install the IPR full coolant filter in bypass mode, and at a later date buy the manifold kit and have it in full flow mode.My coolant temp and oil temp never go beyond a 7 degree difference so perhaps I'll just install the Mishimoto coolant bypass filter and leave it at that?
Engine has egr delete and big aluminum tank setup for better oil cooling or something like that.
I should really post up a bunch of Engine pictures to get some feedback from all you way more experienced fellas here
IMO, a bypass coolant filter is an easy to install thing that is hard to do wrong. Some other things like a coolant flush need a little more time and a little more planning since they can go wrong. The full flow is a trickier install. For me, I could not figure out how to get the coolant cover off the oil cooler, but later found out there is a low profile ratchet set for that. I never had my IPR filter installed very long, just enough to run coolant through it, before I upgraded to the air cooled oil cooler and did not need it anymore.
Ok well I'll have to research all that lol.
As far as I know my engine has and aftermarket high performance oil cooler, Spearco intercooler+piping, erg delete, upgraded Y pipe, upgraded pistons/rings, APR studs, 165cc injectors and all that jazz so I was just going to add on a bypass coolant filter as well as bypass oil filter just for piece of mind.
Engine is a reman long block with only 120,000kms and newer turbo so I have no problem investing a few grand into it to keep it as healthy as possible for as long as possible
Since I just posted this over at FTE to a sister thread to this with some of the same people, I might as well put it here too.
While rebuilding my engine, I inspected the cooling jackets with one of my borescopes. This is what is known as a bridge in the foundry world. A small space where the two molds meet, and when cast, the metal enters that space. This opening is not sprayed with the release agent like the normal surfaces are, so it's easier for the sand to attach to the metal. I had two areas with sand like this; the other was in a corner where the release agent probably wasn't covering.
This was a rebuilt engine by a Ford contractor. So it had a new engine life, the block rebuilt, and going through all the processes with that, then 75,000 miles in my truck. And it was still there.
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I soaked my coolant jackets with Evapo-Rust, then ran pressurized water through the block to rinse it out. The result was the sand removed from the misplaced casting, along with any residual rust.
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While rebuilding my engine, I inspected the cooling jackets with one of my borescopes. This is what is known as a bridge in the foundry world. A small space where the two molds meet, and when cast, the metal enters that space. This opening is not sprayed with the release agent like the normal surfaces are, so it's easier for the sand to attach to the metal. I had two areas with sand like this; the other was in a corner where the release agent probably wasn't covering.
This was a rebuilt engine by a Ford contractor. So it had a new engine life, the block rebuilt, and going through all the processes with that, then 75,000 miles in my truck. And it was still there.
I soaked my coolant jackets with Evapo-Rust, then ran pressurized water through the block to rinse it out. The result was the sand removed from the misplaced casting, along with any residual rust.
Thank you for dumbing it down for me lol. I know my engine has EGR delete and upgraded high performance oil cooler, but not sure if the new oil cooler is air to oil.
Is the aluminum tank that's behind my radiator an air to oil cooler setup or something else?
Also thank you for your help
Curious how beach sand would get into the coolant as it's a closed system no?
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