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Discussion Starter #1
I am installing an egr delete on my truck and am having a hard time getting the rear two bolts on the pedestal for the turbo removed are there any tricks of the trade on getting them out I sprayed wd40 on them I used a wrench a ratchet and I can't get my 3/8 drive breaker bar to fit in there.


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I read that someone used an 8" extension and swivel to get them out.
 

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I find frozen bolts are much easier to extract if you use PB Blaster. It is a spray penetrating fluid and it works. Soak the bolt/nuts as thoroughly as possible and let it sit for 30 mins. Spray it again and then try breaking it loose again. That made mine much easier to get out when I did my oil cooler.
 

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My favorite tool is the 10mm ratcheting box end wrench for the front 2 bolts and the rear go over the down pipe and drop a socket and extension on it. Once its loose try to roll it out towards the passenger headlight. Be patient, I put a moving blanket on my passenger battery and kneel right up there.
 

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PB Blaster, I think we used 2 universals and 3 extensions. We ended up twisting the hell out of a adapter though, had to go buy a new one. It's a pain in the ***.
 

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I've never had any problem with just a 10mm and an extension.
 

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I also use a ratchet and socket and PB Blaster to soak the bolts. To be honest, I have had more problems with v-band clamps than anything else. Keep with it and DON'T strip the bolt head. You will find that it will eventually come loose.
 

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I also use a ratchet and socket and PB Blaster to soak the bolts. To be honest, I have had more problems with v-band clamps than anything else. Keep with it and DON'T strip the bolt head. You will find that it will eventually come loose.
Same here.
 

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I removed the 3 bolts holding the turbo to the pedistal. Ratcheting 10mm and it was no problem. Then the pedistal is cake to take out.
 

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Also hook a rubber strap on the duck bill that hangs on the top cowl to the hood to keep it up. Turbo rolls out the passenger side.

When you go to install the turbo again put some anti seize on the bolts just in case you gotta get in there again. Make sure when you put the up pipe V band back on that it is on ALL the way around also. Its a PITA but make sure you do it right.

If the bolts are that much of a pain most people squirt the bolts and wait. I like to take some paper towel and soak them down and shoot them 2 times a day. They will come loose then.
 

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I had problems with the same two bolts. I ended up unbolting the pedestal and removing it with the turbo still attached. Once I had it out of the truck I soaked them with PB Blaster and removed them with an impact.
 

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Not exactly sure if your talking about the back 2 of the three that bolt the turbo to the pedestal or the back 2 of 4 on the pedestal itself, but if your talking about the turbo to pedestal bolts, it makes it 150% easier if you can drop your downpipe as much as possible.. Leaves you with a ton more room.

Also $20 at Sears is a 3/8 wrench with a swivel end.. makes this job way easier, I just did my EGR delete this weekend
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the help got it all out and the EGR is deleted now. But now I have a new issue the V band clamp for the up pipe is leaking it looked old an worn so I got a new one and replaced it and it still leaking from what I can tell its seated correctly all the way around and its only leaking out of a pin hole at one spot at the end of part of the v band on the clamp. Any suggestions? I took it off and put it back on twice just to be sure and its still leaking out of the same spot unless its the alignment of the plants or something for to clamps to be bad in the same spot I think I need some assistance.
 

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They need to be perfectly aligned before the v-band clamp is reinstalled. It won't pull the two sections together like you are thinking. This is the most frustrating part of the whole process, but stick with it and you will get rid of the exhaust leak. :nod:
 

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Try loosening up the turbo bolts a little then cinch down the v-band. You can snug down the turbo bolts once you get the v-band lined up and tight.
 

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I used a tie down strap between the y-pipe and then to the hood latch to pull it tight and hold it so I could tighten the v-clamp.
 

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We use Kroil penetrant where I work. IMO it works the BEST of anything I've tried in the past. http://www.kanolabs.com/
 

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The up pipe or the y-pipe?? if i'm correct the up pipe has two bolts w/ flanges on either end, no v-clamps there
 
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