Glow plug relay is on too of the engine by the fuel filter. Just turn the key and make sure both posts have voltage. For glowplugs take the valve cover wiring harnesses and unplug them. Make sure the outside pins read between 1 and 2 ohms. Once you have the glowplus out run hot to top of gp and ground to the threads.
well 1 out of 8 extra ones that i had worked. And my Relay was bbad so i put another used one i had laying around in. It shows power on both sides. the origanal one didnt. Now i just need to see how many GPs are working under the covers?
I imagine its 1 or 2 ohms, what would be out of whack if its not reading that? Would it read 10 ohms or never ending?
Reason i ask is i am about to be checking mine, when i tore the truck down from previous owner i found a slew of issues fixed them and made updates. Anyway one was a burnt driver front UVCH and the respective engine harness plug, new to me good harness(cause of all the rat chewed wires in old one) and all that was fixed. Was fixing trans cable and turned key forward to move shifter and heard a sizzeling then pop and smoke from driver VC. I pull it back off(wasnt bolted yet) and rear UCVH is roasted through and took my brand new VC gasket with it(no warranty on those BTW so 80 down the tubes).
Are my glow plugs bad i bought 2 new ones to change in the respective cylinders to the burnt pins(heard its the opposite plug to the one burnt but want to test before pulling) but is it good practice to change all of them like you would with the injectors(never had to do this). Why would the plugs keep drawing power enough to burn the wires that way is there another issue than the plugs? The GPR works as it should tested with light and all that good junk.
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