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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks back I let some family use my truck to pull their 35' camper to a campsite. On the way back, my truck blew off the LOWER intercooler hose and stranded them beside the interstate on a pretty steep grade. While trying to get the lower back on, my uncle ended up removing the upper hose in order to get the lower back on. This had never happened to me, so I started asking around and reading about it, seems it's a pretty common issue. Everyone is telling me once it has blown off it is most likely going to continue to do so when towing until I replace the spring loaded clamps, and some are saying the hoses as well.

My issue is, I may be pulling a car hauler with an H3 Hummer on Monday about 250 miles, and I really want to avoid getting stranded beside the interstate trying fix this thing 10 times on the way home. What are everyone's experiences, and what all should I replace (if anything) before the trip? Do I needed to replace both hoses and the clamps to feel confident?

Thanks for any help
 

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How old are the hoses? They maybe weak from the oil soaking into them from the CCV. If they are original with a lot of miles on them, then replace them and the clamps with new.

If they aren't that old, you can clean them with a degreaser along with the piping, spray the inside with hairspray, slide them on and clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As far as I know this is the factory hoses, truck has about 89k miles on it now. Maybe I should just go ahead and replace then. Is everyone just using the OEM replacement hoses and clamps? I'm sure that's all I'll be able to get my hands on in time anyway, but is there any aftermarket ones that are less likely to blow off?
 

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mine has done this only twice at 95k it happened the same way twice i pulled off the interstate while towing a load to refuel and did not let the truck cool down as i normally do and turned the truck off. i refueled and entered the highway after the turbo cycled the vgt to full boost it then sticks wide open and blows off the hose repeatedly until allow it to completely cool down at which time it will work perfect like it never happened be interesting to see of they refueled shortly before this happened and didnt let it idle to cool the turbo.
 

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From my past reading it looks like most people replace with Dieselsite or Riff Raff couplings.
 

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Stay away from dieselsite boots...go with Riffraff or OEM.

This will more than likely continue to happen until you do a CCV reroute and get the oil out of the intake system.
 

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Do NOT use desiel site boots. Also look into the ccv mod. I have had 0 issues with mine since I did it.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Clean your boots very well, spray them inside and on the pipes themselves with cheap white rain aerosol hairspray. Let it set up and tack well for a few minutes and put your pipes together. No more problems......had this happen on mine when I went and changed turbos....
 

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Hmm. Why not go with the diesel site boots and aluminum vs. plastic intake pipe?
The plastic CAC tube has a tendency to crack in the flex under the air filter. The metal tube part number is: 6C3Z-6C640-AA. It comes complete with new boots and t bolt clamps.
 

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The ccv system has a lot to do with it. Get rid of that and it will save you some headache. Replace the boots with riff-raffs. I carry around a can of hairspray behind my seat, it will help a ton, trust me. At the dyno event at PHP i was the first one to come running with the can of hairspray (nick can tell ya). it works everytime!
 

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I had the same issue with my hoses using the banks system inter cooler. I found new hoses at Mr Bob's hoses they are rated for 100 psi with a lifetime warranty. kind of costly but sure do ease your mind knowing their not going to breakdown on you replace the clamps as well he includes them with the hoses. one of the best things Ive done to the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So everyone has better results with the Riff Raff boots than replacing OEM? I was unaware of the ccv reroute, after reading about it it looks like I need to do this ASAP.

Thanks for all the input, it sucks feeling like you can't tow anything without having to worry about blowing a boot off and being stuck beside the road.
 

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Hey guys. I made a make shift bracket to support the intercooler pipe giving the boots no room to blow off.
770674
 

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Bstr73
Good idea but IMO the oem hoses are weak and flimsy allowing the IC pipe to move way too much. The riff raff boots are thicker and less pliable plus if installed correctly, they will not come off.
 

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if that pipe was meant to have no movement they would have used a bolt on method vs a boot at the turbo

the IC pipe needs to be able to move with the motor
locking it to the alternator has the lower IC boot taking all the movement

there are some brackets that do allow movement and still trap the pipe

i prefer a good brand of boot and clamp and a hood protector plate


 

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I remember in our fab shop looking at an alternator mount my buddy was proud of in his freshly completed I4 TO V6 conversion
he had the mounts attached to the vehicle frame
I told him that looks great, but he better weld the motor and trans mounts solid to the fame also

took him a second then it struck him %$#&*@^% lol

there are plenty of google images of folks solid mounting the CAC tube at the alternator
but if you notice some allow the pipe to still move up and down those are the better designs
 
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