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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2003 F-350 dually with 105k miles.
EGR delete
ARP head studs
BPD remote oil cooler
The oil is still wanting to float around 220-230 degrees without a load behind it. The water seems to follow it or vice verse with water running around 210. Outside temps are in the 90s.
Does the oil temp follow the water temp with this new oil cooler? From what I’ve read, the water should be in the 195 range.
I’ve changed the thermostat and the degas bottle cap. I would just like a little advice before I put anymore money into this thing!
I’m leaning towards water pump but would like as much input as possible by good folks familiar with these engines! I can provide anymore info you guys would like that might help! Appreciate at it!!
 

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upper 90°'s where I'm living/driving and my temps are north off 200° ~ typically my delta runs about 7°, EOT over ECT

When my ECT hits 208° the fan clutch engages and quickly pulls ECT back down to around 198°, and disengages - the ECT will slowly come down as well, but not as rapidly

The only time I saw EOT of +220° was pulling a boat over a steep hill in NC. The fan engaged and did it's jobs then, too.

Typically, on a hot day in stop and go traffic, not hauling, I may see EOT reach 212° to 214°, but running highway/interstate this is not typical unless I'm hammer down, 80+



When you say BPD remote oil cooler, do you mean the relocated OEM liquid to liquid cooler, or their liquid to air cooler (with or without the thermostat control)?
 

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I just got off the phone with Andrew at BPD. Super nice and helpful guy! He is leaning towards an air flow issue, ie. fan clutch or something restricting air flow from the grill. I was thinking water pump but he doesn’t think it is that at all.

I have a ScanGauge that monitors the FSS and it shows 300-400 usually. It will spike to 1200 when the water temp gets to 218 and bring it back to around 209. I have tried to spin the fan by hand with the engine hot and it has tension and no wobble or play. Any other way to test it?
 

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How fast are you going empty?

There is a big difference in oil temps with dual rear wheel trucks going 55 vs 80 etc. Not saying your rodding your truck but stock gearing and stock tires its easy to see over 210 just by going fast etc. Also have you looked at the oil cooler lines, radiator, grill, ac and checked for major dust build up or dirt/debris?
 

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Running 60 down a 2 lane highway.

Yep it’s all clean. Oil cooler has been added within the last 2 weeks.
 

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Running 60 down a 2 lane highway.

Yep it’s all clean. Oil cooler has been added within the last 2 weeks.
I would continue to work with BPD then. Unless the air cooler was mounted in a weird place or you have some larger aftermarket bumper there isn't usually cooling issue. Some have reported above normal temps in stop n go situations in hot climates but generally speaking Bulletproof diesel is second to none for their oil cooler kit. Very interested to see what you and the bpd guys discover regarding the heat.
 

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It does have a brush guard on the front. Although I couldn’t imagine it blocking enough air to make a difference. Something to look into though. I will pull it off and see if there is a difference.
 

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One thing to mention, now that I read you have a dually. We suggest and strongly recommend the larger Heavy Duty Cooler (approx. 20% larger) for the dual rear wheel trucks, mostly because of the highway engine RPM range. We can help get you upgraded to the HD cooler, but the HD coolers add an additional $150 to the package price.

While I am still convinced the fan clutch is not working properly, I think the larger HD cooler could help as well. Give me a call if you would prefer to upgrade to the HD cooler and we will get you taken care of.
 

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Here's my experience with the Air Cooled cooler. I don't see 220 EOT slick and level on the highway with the 6.0 fan clutch, and certainly not with the 7.3 mechanical clutch. The cooler needs air flowing across it to keep temps down. When I am in 4 WD or 4 WD Lo where I am on trails going slow, the oil temps get higher than I'd like, and IMO that is because the truck is being worked hard, but there's no air moving over the oil radiator. Just no air flow to dissipate the heat. I had the 6.0 fan clutch at the time, which I think is programmed for ECT, not EOT, so the clutch didn't engage as much as I would have liked. The oil cooler, condenser, radiator and intercooler all sit in the same area, so I can really see why with the added oil cooler, the air flow becomes more important.

So I kind of see how it could be the air flow issue. The only thing I will add, and I'm sure you were asked this is there's a thermostat option, I think it's called the cold weather version, so its possible the thermostat in the oil cooler could be going bad.

Also, I have had good experiences with Andrew, so I would consider just what he says. In my case I'd spent $2k in parts and labor chasing down a whistle that when I sent him a video he correctly ID'd as a slipping water pump pulley. I scuffed the pulley and changed the belt for $50 and that fixed the problem. So he does give good advice.

If you do go the clutch route, I chose the 7.3 mechanical clutch. Whether you choose that or the 6.0 clutch is really your preference. I do get cooler ECT and EOT with the mechanical clutch, but it is a truck designed for higher temps. Also, with the clutch, one of the "while you're there things" is the water pump. Take the belt off, drain the coolant, and take six more bolts off, you can justify changing the water pump as preventative instead of tearing it down in case it goes bad weeks, months or years down the road.
 

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Here's my experience with the Air Cooled cooler. I don't see 220 EOT slick and level on the highway with the 6.0 fan clutch, and certainly not with the 7.3 mechanical clutch. The cooler needs air flowing across it to keep temps down. When I am in 4 WD or 4 WD Lo where I am on trails going slow, the oil temps get higher than I'd like, and IMO that is because the truck is being worked hard, but there's no air moving over the oil radiator. Just no air flow to dissipate the heat. I had the 6.0 fan clutch at the time, which I think is programmed for ECT, not EOT, so the clutch didn't engage as much as I would have liked. The oil cooler, condenser, radiator and intercooler all sit in the same area, so I can really see why with the added oil cooler, the air flow becomes more important.

So I kind of see how it could be the air flow issue. The only thing I will add, and I'm sure you were asked this is there's a thermostat option, I think it's called the cold weather version, so its possible the thermostat in the oil cooler could be going bad.

Also, I have had good experiences with Andrew, so I would consider just what he says. In my case I'd spent $2k in parts and labor chasing down a whistle that when I sent him a video he correctly ID'd as a slipping water pump pulley. I scuffed the pulley and changed the belt for $50 and that fixed the problem. So he does give good advice.

If you do go the clutch route, I chose the 7.3 mechanical clutch. Whether you choose that or the 6.0 clutch is really your preference. I do get cooler ECT and EOT with the mechanical clutch, but it is a truck designed for higher temps. Also, with the clutch, one of the "while you're there things" is the water pump. Take the belt off, drain the coolant, and take six more bolts off, you can justify changing the water pump as preventative instead of tearing it down in case it goes bad weeks, months or years down the road.
I do not have the thermostat/cold weather option. Will the 7.3 mechanical clutch make the fan come on more often to cool the EOT and ECT or just come on sooner? I’m leaning towards going that route before I upgrade to their HD cooler. And I will definitely follow your suggestion of changing out the water pump. Thanks for your input.
 

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One thing to mention, now that I read you have a dually. We suggest and strongly recommend the larger Heavy Duty Cooler (approx. 20% larger) for the dual rear wheel trucks, mostly because of the highway engine RPM range. We can help get you upgraded to the HD cooler, but the HD coolers add an additional $150 to the package price.

While I am still convinced the fan clutch is not working properly, I think the larger HD cooler could help as well. Give me a call if you would prefer to upgrade to the HD cooler and we will get you taken care of.
Does 20% larger oil cooler equate to 20% lower temperatures or will the underlying issue need to be solved before a difference that large will be noticed.
 

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try the blue wire mod (fan clutch override) first IMO

but i would talk to BPD about the bigger cooler and just get it dialed in for severe duty solution
Blue wire mod is new to me, but after google search it sounds like where I need to start. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Does 20% larger oil cooler equate to 20% lower temperatures or will the underlying issue need to be solved before a difference that large will be noticed.
Simply put, dimensionally the cooler is about 20% larger.. I think there are too many variables to try and put an exact percentage or number on how much cooler it would be. I still think the fan clutch is acting a bit "lazy", so I think that is where I would start. I figured the HD cooler was at least worth mentioning, simply because of the dually truck.
 

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Not sure of the current air-to-liquid cooler, but on a previous truck I was an early adopter of the BPD cooler. Pre "cold-weather-package" days, and that thing kept EOT well below ECT. It was actually so effective that in the winter I had to block off about 75% of the cooler to get EOT above 160°. Its actually the reason I shifted to the OEM relocated package on this truck. The design concept is sound, its the application that has a flaw - so I'll deal with buying a new OEM cooler when needed. That aside...

The guys at BPD are great, so keep working with them. Top notch group!

I have to assume you have an airflow issue, I'd love to see a picture of your mounting if you have a brush guard. I added crash bars to a motorcycle, and it drastically altered the airflow around the bike. Have to imaging the same happens with crash guards, brush guards, rand hands, etc... I'm also curious if the design of the oil cooler has changed since the early days, because that sucker would cool some oil for sure.
 

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I do not have the thermostat/cold weather option. Will the 7.3 mechanical clutch make the fan come on more often to cool the EOT and ECT or just come on sooner? I’m leaning towards going that route before I upgrade to their HD cooler. And I will definitely follow your suggestion of changing out the water pump. Thanks for your input.
I have the HD cooler in a SRW. I think the cooler does both. I definitely feel the wind coming off the 7.3 clutch at idle when I start the truck, so in that case it is definitely stronger. I'm assuming the clutch engages more because the temps EOT and ECT are cooler regardless of driving conditions and I think I hear the fan more. With the mechanical clutch, you lose the ability to measure FSS to tell for certain.
 
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