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Alrighty, after many discussions with others and reading things here and there, I figured I would start this thread to see what some numbers are for the highest horsepower/torque for a 6.0 running STOCK head bolts. I already know about the risks off blowing head gaskets without studs, but I am wondering who has been pushing the limits and have been good to go so far. We all know that the 6.0 is notorious for stretching bolts with high horsepower mods, but I also know that there are some people out there running pretty big numbers with stock bolts. Every truck is different, and some get lucky and have no problems with the bolts. I personally feel like I got lucky and have a good one, no major issues yet, knock on wood, and want to get a little more out of my truck. I don't have the money, time, or the place to stud my truck right now, but I am curious how far I can push it.

Before anyone comes in here and starts telling me that I HAVE to stud my truck, please keep those comments to yourself, that's not the point of this thread. I would like to hear from people that actually have high numbers with STOCK bolts and what their experiences are and how they feel about the whole topic.

With that being said.... let's hear it..... Who's got the highest numbers with STOCK head bolts.
 

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Theres a guy on PSN and a couple other forums running 205s on stock bolts.

Should put him north of 500hp.
 

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with the one or two things I've done to my truck i'm running around 400HP and 715lbs-ft at the crank currently and the only bullet proofing i've done is a coolant filter and a new FICM with a 40HP tune
 

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I am tuned, coolant filter, EGR welded shut, no cat, and the last time I got on the dyno I was at 396/776 and that was with sticky injectors. I want to get an MTW stage1, at least an Atlas 40 FICM tune, and possibly 155 with stock nozzles. I'm just not sure how far I can go until I can buy studs and install them. I am of the mindset at this point of let's push it until the gaskets go and then replace them with studs.
 

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Theres a guy on PSN and a couple other forums running 205s on stock bolts.

Should put him north of 500hp.
I know there is a guy running almost 500 here on the ORG with stock bolts. I sent a PM to one of the GDPA guys that mentioned him before, so I am hoping he chimes in.
 

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Try putting a ported intake manifold, port and polish heads, and headers. That'll add power without hurting anything. But that's about $2000 if you buy both, you can make your own intake for the cost of epoxy, a dremel tool, and gaskets. Just take your time. All three together should net 50-80hp and lower egt's.
 

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I say go for it. If money is tight though, atleast budget for the studding job first before spending all your money and then breaking your truck. We all can agree that every truck is different, you may push 500 with TTY bolts, or you may be at your limit now. You cant really know till its to late and well by then its already to late.
 

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Jeff thats my plan too.

Although I think mine wont go quite as long as yours.

Too many years of doing everything from Daily driving to towing 10k plus to all out beating it in race tunes
 

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Try putting a ported intake manifold, port and polish heads, and headers. That'll add power without hurting anything. But that's about $2000 if you buy both, you can make your own intake for the cost of epoxy, a dremel tool, and gaskets. Just take your time. All three together should net 50-80hp and lower egt's.
I want both of these parts but your missing the up pipes for the headers, thats about 500$ so steed speed manifolds=1k, Intake manifold= 1050-1200 and up pipes=550.

Id like to see someone dyno these with nothing more than intake exhuast and tuning
 

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Try putting a ported intake manifold, port and polish heads, and headers. That'll add power without hurting anything. But that's about $2000 if you buy both, you can make your own intake for the cost of epoxy, a dremel tool, and gaskets. Just take your time. All three together should net 50-80hp and lower egt's.
Do you have any more info on that?

I say go for it. If money is tight though, atleast budget for the studding job first before spending all your money and then breaking your truck. We all can agree that every truck is different, you may push 500 with TTY bolts, or you may be at your limit now. You cant really know till its to late and well by then its already to late.
I hear what you are sayin. I know the risks I take by doing that, hell I knew the risk I took getting a 6.0, but like I said, I am thinking that I got a good one. I have pushed my truck harder than I ever thought I would be able to and the bolts are still working just fine. There is A LOT more that I would really love to do, but I know that studs would be a must for those mods. I kinda want to see how far I can go and be able to say "Yup... stock head bolts.":D

Jeff thats my plan too.

Although I think mine wont go quite as long as yours.

Too many years of doing everything from Daily driving to towing 10k plus to all out beating it in race tunes
I have only ran the SRL on my truck at this point, which is probably going to change soon. How many different race tunes have you ran to date Dave?
 

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Forgot about the steed's. I was thinking outlaw diesel's headers, the bolt right up to the up pipes you have. They cost the same, but are a true header, a tri-y design. My buddy had them and they seemed to help out a good bit. Black widow diesel makes them as well, but have heard they are not a very good product(crack at the welds.)

The thing about either of these is that it's a lot of money for a few ponies. Other than that, I wouldn't know what could safely be done to peg out the power with TTY's.
 

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Ok first off to the guy saying to port and polish your heads and intake manifold. If your porting and polishing your heads you have to PULL them off of the truck requiring you to get new gaskets and at that point would be a really dumb idea to put back together with TTY bolts. Also I wouldn't recommend trying to port and polish your intake manifold and reassemble with just some epoxy and gaskets. It needs to be welded back together and even at that some guys are still having problems getting them to seal properly and not leak. I wouldn't trust some epoxy to hold the pressures. But that's just me.

OP the TTY bolts stand for Torque To Yeild meaning that there isn't a specified torque rating to go for. The bolts are torqued until they "stretch" into the proper torque Yeild range. Over time with many heat cycles and stresses these bolts take in everyday use they stretch more causing the head gaskets to blow. That or coolant getting into the cylinders raising cylinder pressures over 3 times what the bolts were designed to handle and that will stretch them further.

ARP's don't stretch unless the installer over torques them then they are useless this is and the fact that you get more clamping force with a stud and nut vs a bolt is why people use them over TTY head bolts.
 

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where are these outlaw diesel headers? I want to check them out!
 

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OP the TTY bolts stand for Torque To Yeild meaning that there isn't a specified torque rating to go for. The bolts are torqued until they "stretch" into the proper torque Yeild range. Over time with many heat cycles and stresses these bolts take in everyday use they stretch more causing the head gaskets to blow. That or coolant getting into the cylinders raising cylinder pressures over 3 times what the bolts were designed to handle and that will stretch them further.

ARP's don't stretch unless the installer over torques them then they are useless this is and the fact that you get more clamping force with a stud and nut vs a bolt is why people use them over TTY head bolts.
I see, thanks for sharing that with us all.

I fully understand why people install studs. What I am curious about is who has been able to push the limits for the longest time and still not "stretch" the stock bolts.
 

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I'll comment a little more later, threw my back out early today playing with my son. Yay Vicodin.

Water/meth will lower cylinder pressure as well as give a 35-50+ rwhp increase. SARGAR , one of our members, has done almost 450 RWHP and 1000 RWTQ on his TTY's.
 

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Jd, I believe the site was outlawdieselperformance.com

Tuscany, all I was saying is getting more volume of air in the motor is about all you have to work with by opening the heads up. More timing pop, more fuel pop, etc.. Of course it would be dumb not to stud the motor while their off, heck all this stuff is nothing more than a waste of money. Or of course nitrous in small doses can do the same thing as the above mentioned.

I think it's funny how water can be useful but be terrible for an engine all at the same time. Just enough more oomph, too much, new motor.
 

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I'll comment a little more later, threw my back out early today playing with my son. Yay Vicodin.

Water/meth will lower cylinder pressure as well as give a 35-50+ rwhp increase. SARGAR , one of our members, has done almost 450 RWHP and 1000 RWTQ on his TTY's.
Sucks to hear, hope you get to feelin better soon.

Very interested in what you have to say about all this. Hopefully SARGAR will chime in as well.
 

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I know you are looking for facts and actual experience here and not opinions so I included facts to back my feelings.

I've personally seen a 2005 6.0 blow the gaskets at 112,000 miles with only a BANKS tuner and intake / exhaust for mods. There were no signs of overheating until AFTER the heads went and it blew coolant out the exhaust.

This is a DIESEL engine with a compression ratio of 18 : 1. Coolant does not compress. IF the stock ones do go and the truck gets too hot or is run with cylinders full of coolant it will be alot more expensive than the initial investment would have been.

Its a fact that these things are prone to blowing head gaskets. Correct me if i am in error but the 7.3 came with 18 head bolts per head. the 6.0 has 10 per head.

That is the difference of 4 per CYL or 6 per CYL (sharing the middle bolts between cylinders) The bolts are way too far apart to handle the pressure.
Correct me if I am wrong but a DURAMAX will have 6 per and a CUMMINS will also have 6 per.

Even a CHEVY 350 with a compression ratio of less than 10:1 has more than 10 bolts on the head. (17)

Bolt stretch has already been covered so i wont even go there...

Its just a matter of time with those high pressures. Past experience and mechanical evidence prove that it is Not worth the risk IMO.
 

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Jd, I believe the site was outlawdieselperformance.com

Tuscany, all I was saying is getting more volume of air in the motor is about all you have to work with by opening the heads up. More timing pop, more fuel pop, etc.. Of course it would be dumb not to stud the motor while their off, heck all this stuff is nothing more than a waste of money. Or of course nitrous in small doses can do the same thing as the above mentioned.

I think it's funny how water can be useful but be terrible for an engine all at the same time. Just enough more oomph, too much, new motor.
Thanks, cant seem to get that web site to load though.

I want to hear from SAGAR to, I want to come to the november event in dallas and would love to break 1000ft lbs!!
 

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Do you have any more info on that?



I hear what you are sayin. I know the risks I take by doing that, hell I knew the risk I took getting a 6.0, but like I said, I am thinking that I got a good one. I have pushed my truck harder than I ever thought I would be able to and the bolts are still working just fine. There is A LOT more that I would really love to do, but I know that studs would be a must for those mods. I kinda want to see how far I can go and be able to say "Yup... stock head bolts.":D



I have only ran the SRL on my truck at this point, which is probably going to change soon. How many different race tunes have you ran to date Dave?

Alot. Ive got roughly 30-35 different SCT files on my laptop
 
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