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Discussion Starter #1
Since i changed to HIDs back in February my truck engine shuts of when the automatic lights turn on(10+ times since Feb.).It could be running @50 MPH or a idle,it doesn't matter or it shuts off for a split second but not enough to shut the engine off(idle drops and runs good after that).Its been doing more often then before and sometimes when i try to start it,it happened already as soon as i turned the key to on and it doesn't start it just cranks over.So my question is there something that is hooked up to the lighting system that will turn of the engine.I hope it is not the lights its self as i cant imagine going back to halogens.
 

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My old 02 did some crazy things when it came on with auto or if I turned on highbeams because it only was a low beam HID kit. It would make the dash lights go crazy and fluctuate RPM's. I just got used to using regular lights again without auto on, I didn't use it much anyhow I use my park lights a lot. My next truck I didn't make the mistake of getting only lowbeam and I haven't even tried the auto feature because if it got dark for a second or going threw a tunnel or something it isn't good for HID's to come on and off quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is the same reason i want to fix this lights,when i go in a tunnel it shuts off.
 

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That sounds pretty messed up. I wouldn't ever want to return to Facto-lighting either.I really cant say that I know what problem you are encountering, because I don't have DRLs and the "auto" function works great for me. The problem with these DRLs is that they don't supply enough voltage for the startup. DDM sells a relay that is supposed to help with poor startup problems. Check this link Hope it helps
 

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Also remember that the HID's uses High Frequency AC power to run them, and the Injectors in the truck uses the same High Frequency type. If when the HIDs come on they maybe messing with the injectors.

When HID's come on the ballast produces a 25KV pulse to jump the internal gap then backs down to 80ish volts. This pulse is proably the problem, try moving your ballasts farther away from the motor and ECM
 

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MY TRCK DOES THIS TOO! i hate it! ive got to the point where i turn my lights on and then start the truck, embarrasing when it dont start the first try, have to cycle the ignition
 

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lol.. these things draw massive start up power, and when they fire up the usually draw to much current for everything to run, i dont use my auto feature and ive never had an issue, are your batts or alt weak?
 

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Wiring harnesses are needed to prevent the initial power surge at in-rush and there is alos something else with some Fords that will interfere with operation and longevity of HID in general
 

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Wiring harnesses are needed to prevent the initial power surge at in-rush and there is also something else with some Fords that will interfere with operation and longevity of HID in general
Is that the relay wiring?
no no, it is something with the trucks themselves, how they are designed to supply power to the headlamps.
 

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My 55watt HIDs never cause any problems with the truck. I have the power draw hooked up to the passenger side battery.
 

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HID's dont take that much power to start up, 2 of them will pull about 30amps to start (Less then 1 sec) and then will go down to around 8amps for the pair. HIDs run with less amp draw then normal lights.

I have 55watt HIDs in my headlights and 30watt HIDs in my foglights, and dont have any problems, they are in auto mode most of the time.
 

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My HIDs make the ABS light come on, the SES light come on, and all my gauges, even my pillar gauges, all drop to 0 for like 2 seconds and then it all goes back to normal. Oh well... It doesn't make it shut down though.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have a relay for my headlight hook direct to the passenger side battery and it still does it. I'm sure its some kind of RF that causing this.
 

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Looks like he does from his sig.
 

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Looks like he does from his sig.
Doh, should have looked, that would have been a good idea!


There are known issues with HID in general and the DP tuner chips. Word was something was changed by DP tuner to help with such issues. However, things I can tell you that will help
1) absolutely use a relayed wiring harness
2) run the relay wiring off the opposite battery

Those things will help
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks guys,yep I have a dp,relay and it's of the pass battery. That's why I think it's some kind of rf issue.
 
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