[rdgread]

I need some advice with the HFCM in my 2005 F-250 4WD Diesel.

I just replaced the fuel filter and tried to re-install the water separator drain plug. It looks good, but it will not tighten. It threads on loosely but keeps spinning. As I can't seat it, I assume it will pop out when driving.

Answers to following would be a big help:

When I removed it, a half circle of steel came out in the plug's threads. I am assuming that this is a broken thread from inside the HFCM threads. This sliver of metal is not an engineered part by any remote chance?

Am I right to assume that the only way I am going to fix this is by replacing the entire cover of the HFCM?

Can the cover of the HFCM be swapped out with the drive shaft in the way, or will I have to drop that first?

I see part number 6C3Z-9B249-A at Amazon for $118. Is that the one I need, or is that more than I need?

If I am to replace the entire cover, could I try a temporary fix by permanently sealing the drain plug in place with some JB Weld?

Any other relevant advice from someone who has replaced a HFCM cover would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

RR

 

[Rattlesnake18]

I need some advice with the HFCM in my 2005 F-250 4WD Diesel.

I just replaced the fuel filter and tried to re-install the water separator drain plug. It looks good, but it will not tighten. It threads on loosely but keeps spinning. As I can't seat it, I assume it will pop out when driving.

Answers to following would be a big help:

When I removed it, a half circle of steel came out in the plug's threads. I am assuming that this is a broken thread from inside the HFCM threads. This sliver of metal is not an engineered part by any remote chance?

I would definitely say that the threads inside have stripped out, and it is not an engineered piece.

Am I right to assume that the only way I am going to fix this is by replacing the entire cover of the HFCM?

I would agree with your assumption, but someone else may chime in with other info.

Can the cover of the HFCM be swapped out with the drive shaft in the way, or will I have to drop that first?

Yes. I have taken mine off and reinstalled it with the drive shaft on. I will suggest though that when reinstalling the cover be care not to strip out the mounting holes in the cover and housing. Ask me how I know.:doh:

I see part number 6C3Z-9B249-A at Amazon for $118. Is that the one I need, or is that more than I need?

I am not sure about the part number. I ended up using a bigger screw to hold my cover on and then found a guy her on the org that had an extra HFCM laying around and sold it to me for like $50-$75. You might consider trying to find a used unit and go from there.

If I am to replace the entire cover, could I try a temporary fix by permanently sealing the drain plug in place with some JB Weld?

I'm not sure about that route, but someone else might.

Any other relevant advice from someone who has replaced a HFCM cover would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

RR

My responses are in blue.:thumb:

 

[rdgread]

Rattlesnake18,

Thanks for that.

I am going to try locking the old plug in place with some gas tank repair putty I just purchased. If that holds, it will buy me 10k miles of time before I need to swap the cover. I can use the time to look for a sub $118 option.

Cheers,

RR

 

[Rattlesnake18]

No problem man. I'm not sure how well the putty will work, but I've never tried it, let me know how it works for ya.

 

[rdgread]

Now that I know it's coming off, how?

Rattlesnake18 (or anyone else in the know),

The quick answer is that the putty seems to work fine, at least seems solid and got around town today.

However, not willing to leave well enough alone, I bought the 9B249A kit for $120 at the dealer.

When you say that you have removed this with the 4wd drive shaft in place, do you mean you just took the cover off, or that you removed the entire HFCM and then did the cover replacement on the bench? I am about to attempt to only remove the cover, leaving the HFCM on the rail while I do it.

I easily removed the two rear side fuel lines which have the built-in push tab releases.

The bottom rear line did not stop trickling fuel. It must have run near half a gallon before I reinstalled it. Is that normal? Do I need to just wait that out. Did I make a huge mistake by buying fuel today? Do I need to plug the line while the cover is off?

I was about to get to work on the front lines which look like plain old fuel line disconnects, but I don't think the tool I bought fits them, so I am off to autozone for a more complete set.

I have not quite decided if I like my new hobby, but at least I now accept that I have a new hobby.

Thanks,

RR

 

[ZMANN]

they sell a better drain plug also

did u see that ?

 

[Snake]

Personally, I'd remove the entire HFCM. You can do that without pulling the front driveshaft. This will not only make it easier to install the cover, but give you a chance to give the HFCM and WIF sensor a good cleaning.

 

[rdgread]

You are right. That is now the plan.

I am still fighting the bottom forward fuel line. The disconnect tool will slide in, but the line is not disconnecting. I have a feeling I am going to end up breaking the fitting on the line before I get it off.

(time to surf for advice on that)

Thanks,

RR

 

[Rattlesnake18]

Yes, I took the cover off with the HFCM still mounted to the frame, but Snake makes a very good point about taking the whole unit off and giving it all a good cleaning.

Also, you should take ZMANN's advice and look into the upgraded drain plug. We got one for our work 6.0 and it will make the process of draining the w/f separator a lot easier for you.

 

[rdgread]

The main module is now on a bench. The old cover is still stuck to the last fuel line which is refusing to disconnect.

I think the plastic disconnect tool may have the right ID to go around the steel tube but be a tad too thin (ie the OD is a hair too small) to release the internal mechanism on the line. No doubt the old line has a lot of crap lodged in the fitting as well.

I may be off to buy a third release tool.

yup

 

[Rattlesnake18]

Have you tried going to NAPA for the right tool?

 

[rdgread]

You are mixing me up with someone with a brain, easy to do online, less so in person.

In any case, the third set of disconnect tools easily popped the last line off. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The inside of the HFCM was actually quite clean, at least compared to the sludge photos people have been posting online.

I am glad I did have it off the rail. Trying to tighten the cover screws and avoid getting any crap inside the cover while working behind the drive shaft would have been another PITA.

I will order the fancy drain plug, but that can wait 10,000 miles until the next fuel filter boondoggle.

(The end of the day also included replacing the external transmission filter, which only required some PB Blaster, a huge pipe wrench and bloody knuckles, but done...)

Thanks for all the advice.

RR

 

[rdgread]

PS

I ended up using one of the plastic caps that Ford uses to protect the steel supply stubs on the cover during shipping as a plug for that one lower rear supply line which never did stop trickling fuel.

 

[PSDMikeB]

I wouldn't wait 10,000 miles before draining the water seperator.... That's why it is there - to drain water, not only for changing the filter.

That may be why your old one peeled off the threads from the cover. Need to drain it more often and get the water out - won't be as corroded.

Most folks recommend draining it every month. I live in a dry climate, and drain it every two months or so. I drain it into a baby food jar and let the jar sit to see how much water is present. If you get a fair bit of water, drain it more often. If you get none, you can back off a little.

The most I have ever seen is about the equivalent of a pea sized ball of water, though usually I get virtually no water. Any amount is enough to start rusting the innards of the HFCM. I have heard of folks in the south that drain it every month and see an ounce of water each time...

MikeB

 

[rdgread]

MikeB,

I don't know if corrosion or overtightening or just freak failure caused the thread to come loose. Both the plug and the female seat looked pretty good.

That said, I will take your advice and drain it more often.

I have learned what repair costs look like for these, and I am more than up for any and all affordable preventive maintenance.

I appreciate the advice.

Thanks,

RR

 

[sinner6.0L]

between the water, steel plug and aluminum housing you can bet there's some galvanic corrosion going on there. The threads coming out isn't common but it happens

 

[partyman97_3]

I hope you guys don't mind me reviving an old thread. I am going to take my hfcm off for cleaning. Can someone post me a link to something that would work for the fuel lines. I have an old fuel tool. The one that looks like an x. But it doesn't look like it has the right size. Thanks.