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Discussion Starter #1
I have had exhaust gas's come into the cab of the truck for a little while now and have noticed a gaseous sound @ rear of turbo on acceleration . Slight loss of power till 2200 rpm also...

Underinspection i noticed a small crack in the lower accordion pipe behind the turbo. I replaced the upper myself 6 months ago to same problem . But the lower is extremely hard to get to .

Advice from the repair shop is the the turbo or transmission has to be removed to change it out.

Turbo is my choicer but they are telling me its a 6-8 hours $600-$800 bill.I have the parts what do i need to know to do it myself ????
any advice please??
also should i eliminate the accordion and weld in a rigid length?? what stress will this put on other parts?

thanx for any advice
 

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There are aftermarket companies making these pipes with a stronger accordian (aka, bellow), and that would be the route I'd go. If you weld in a length of pipe, you'll hate yourself when you try to bolt everything back together. You don't have to drop the transmission if you remove the turbo, but the job is still a huge PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanx snake...

but what do you mean by "HUGE PITA" ??? haha

I was thinking of allowing myself 2 days of frustration to replace the oem part i have and if it cracked again , i'd look into it a little more for a more solid solution..
any helpful hints before i attack it in the next few weekends or location to find some hints???

thanx

snake..
 

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PITA = Pain in the Arsss

Now yes, the easiest way will be to remove the turbo. It is a quick 45 minute ordeal.. I will give you steps on how to do this.

First, take the 2 8mm bolts holding your degas bottle on.
Take the the hose to the left of the degas bottle off and lay it to the side.
Undo the clips holding your wire holder and bunjie the wire holder up so you don't hit it with the turbo. Take your intake filter and system off all the way up to the turbo.
Take your left intercooler pipe off.
Now look on the back of the turbo, you see the downpipe and the ypipe
Take both of those 11mm nuts and loosen them all the way and get them loose (hammer and crowbar, be careful)
Once those are loose, slide them off of the turbo side so you can remove it freely.
Take a 10mm ratcheting wrench and take the two turbo bolts off of the front side of the bottom of the turbo(look at the pedistal it sits on)
Now feel around the back of the turbo in between the downpipe and ypipe for the 10mm bolt head and hook up an extension and a ratchet to it to take it out. Now wiggle your turbo to make sure it is free.
Remove the oil feed hose connected to the top with your 10mm ratcheting wrench.
When sliding the turbo out, make sure you pull straight up on it so the drain tube comes out of the bottom of the turbo then pull the turbo out towards through the left side of the oil filter housing.
This will take some wiggling, just be sure not to hit anything or damage anything.
The turbo is a good 40-50 lbs, so work out a little and drink a gatorade before performing this step lol.

Now that your turbo is out, undo the left side of the ypipe when facing the front of your truck, you might need to get it from the bottom if your bolts are rusted.

Now to get the other side of the ypipe connected to your driver's side exhaust manifold.
Take out your inner fenderwell on the driver's side, follow the exhaust manifold all the way back till you see the ypipe and the two bolts attaching it to your manifold, take those out then go back to the top of your engine.
Take the two 10mm bolts on the back of that heat shield out with a small ratcheting wrench then the 13mm bolt to the side of it then slide the heat shield out.

Now slide your ypipe off and go get it welded, I will post a link to me doing some of these steps in my build thread.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/georgia-members/265395-big-blue-mtw-stage-1-upgrade.html

your best bet would be to get mine welded over like in my pictures, or spend the $400-$500 for the "upgraded ypipe". The "upgraded ypipe" is just the same as your ypipe but it has the flexpipe taken out and a solid piece of tubing welded back into it. DO NOT attempt to do this yourself as if it is a little off to one side or twisted barely, it will not go back into place with the bolts lining up, just get it welded over like I did to prevent this.
 

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Like I said, the easiest and cheapest way would be to go my route, It doesn't really need to bend being as the turbo, is bolted down and the exhaust manifold is bolted down, it will only move maybe .001-.002 of an inch whenever your at full throttle to at idle. Simply weld a piece over top of it and you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanx heaps for the detailed information on the repair..

1st time on here and i'll be back, such a great forum!!!

Now just to find the time to get r done...
 
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