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Discussion Starter #1
2005 F350 6.0 cut off while driving now will not start. Can the ICP sensor be dry and still be bad or should I go at the IPR or something else?
 

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If your ICP sensor is dry, look at the IPR to see if it is any good. Pull it out of the HPOP and look at the screen. If the screen is clogged, you MIGHT get away with buying a new screen kit and rescreening it. BUT if the screen is dented inwards, buy a new IPR.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
From your experience, do you think that the ipr could be the cause of the no start and the P2285 code? Would a bad FICM cause the same symptoms?
 
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No. IPR can be done from top definitely thats the only way i do them.

You have removed ICP and it is dry after cranking? EEK thats not good. Id perform an air leak check on it after removing the IPR and inspecting that. Dont go whipping parts at it until you properly diagnose it, these engines are expensive to repair...
P2285 is a circuit low code. Did you wiggle the harness to the icp and then try cranking it to see if it started? How about unplugging the ICP and seeing if it started?
 
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as for FICM youd have a P0611, along with cam crank sensor signal code and every injector circuit being low and if my memory serves me correctly the ICP code you would get would be either 2284, or 2290.
 

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as for FICM youd have a P0611, along with cam crank sensor signal code and every injector circuit being low and if my memory serves me correctly the ICP code you would get would be either 2284, or 2290.
Is it just me, or does it seem to be that FICM failures seem to be way less frequent on 2003 engines than they are on late 2004 and up?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh no I havent tried to crank it with the icp sensor out haha. I was just saying that the wire connector was dry so that led me to believe it was good. I have tried to start it with the icp disconnected but still nothing. Mechanic that I paid to scan it for me said to change both the icp and ipr and I would be good to go. I'm pretty sure it's not the stc fitting on the hpop because it left me stranded 2 years ago and i had it fixed under warranty. what do yall think? Only have the P2285 code
 
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Is it just me, or does it seem to be that FICM failures seem to be way less frequent on 2003 engines than they are on late 2004 and up?
yeah partially due to the solid aluminum bracket from what i can figure less vibration. On buddies trucks i put aluminum foil and dyna mat heat insulation under the ficm in a cut out for the connectors. Last one i did about 3 years ago still the same one i installed and programmed at the first dealership i worked at.

I get the dyna mat and aluminum foil, cut it out for the ficm plugs then fold the aluminum foil over the dynamat and run the bolts through it. Seems to actually work...
 
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Oh no I havent tried to crank it with the icp sensor out haha. I was just saying that the wire connector was dry so that led me to believe it was good. I have tried to start it with the icp disconnected but still nothing. Mechanic that I paid to scan it for me said to change both the icp and ipr and I would be good to go. I'm pretty sure it's not the stc fitting on the hpop because it left me stranded 2 years ago and i had it fixed under warranty. what do yall think? Only have the P2285 code
oh no dont crank it with it out or you will have oil everywhere! what i meant was to crank it when the connector was disconnected... it will take a while to crank and fire about 10-20 seconds.
 
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okay 05. Stand pipes dummy plugs stc fitting if it was replaced with the STC bracket you "SHOULDNT" have an issue with it... at this point before chasing down an electrical issue go pull the IPR out inspect it and then air leak check it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did unplug the icp sensor ans tried to crank it for maybe 5 seconds. should i try longer? I thought the comp would automatically go into default? I dont want to burn up my starter either. its been getting a workout lately.
 
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I did unplug the icp sensor ans tried to crank it for maybe 5 seconds. should i try longer? I thought the comp would automatically go into default? I dont want to burn up my starter either. its been getting a workout lately.
duty cycle your starter. If you crank it for 30 seconds let it sit for a minute or 2. AND MAKE SURE THE BATTERIES ARE ON A CHARGER WHILE YOUR DOING THIS other wise youll toast the FICM
 

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Discussion Starter #16
so it may take up to 30 seconds for it to crank if the icp is unplugged and bad? I am thinking that the icp sensor is good because there is no oil leaking from it. is this correct?
 
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so it may take up to 30 seconds for it to crank if the icp is unplugged and bad? I am thinking that the icp sensor is good because there is no oil leaking from it. is this correct?
No. Just because it isnt barfing oil doesnt mean the electrical part which is inside the sensor is bad itself. This is called a BIAS ICP sensor when you crank it and it is unplugged and fires after an extended cranking period. I can not stress to you enough that you will not have an INSTANT fire it will take up to 30 seconds. Even with a small high pressure oil leak it can and WILL fire if the ICP sensor is unplugged. If it does after that it will throw the 2290 code from there you will air test it for a hpo leak
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So you think the 2285 code I have is from a leak and not icp or ipr? If it cranks after 15 to 20 seconds with the icp unplugged then that's probably a bad sensor? Right? Kinda confussed
 
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So you think the 2285 code I have is from a leak and not icp or ipr? If it cranks after 15 to 20 seconds with the icp unplugged then that's probably a bad sensor? Right? Kinda confussed
:doh:

Let me break it down more clearly. (speaks very slowly lol)
If. You. Remove. The ICP connector. And crank the truck non stop. And it Fires. You have. A Biased ICP sensor. If you Replace it. And it still Does this. Then you have either. A leak. Or. An electrical issue.

2285 is icp circuit low 2290 is icp pressure too low... id scan for every code you possibly have. then do the air leak test.
 
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