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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 01 powerstoke f350 with about 135,000 miles on it. First of all I started getting the morning miss that produced the p1316 code. Like alot of posts my truck would run fine after it warmed up. I just was to busy and didnt't get around to pull the valve covers. Then after of about two weeks, it just died and would not start. It still produced the p1316 code only. I pulled the valve covers and discovered the passenger uvc to be loose. I just plugged it back in basically to see if this would help rather than purchasing a new a new uvc (this was at the recommendation of local Ford delearship diesel tech, he said it's common to lose an entire bank due to the disconnection). My CEL went off and i cleared the code. My problem is all it does is turn over and wont start. Batteries are good and have a good charge. Voltage is at 12 and drops to 10 when cranking. No codes indicated.
Im thinking IDM or injector solenoid next?? Thank for any help that may be offered.
 

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get it on a data monitor and see what your getting from cmp, as well as injector duty cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I dont remember, i will check. I know the oil pressure will go up. still no codes. Im trying to locate a data monitor. Thanks for help
 

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try a small shot of ether this will eliminate a few possibilities. Had the same problem and it proved to be the sylenoid for the glow plugs. usually if ether does crank it it has something to do with the glow plugs but there are always many possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok sounds good, i was going to try that. How do you check the injector solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Ok today i went and talked to my neighbor, he is an older guy who recently retired and sold his diesel shop after 30 years. He told me that he didn't feel the p1316 code or uvch was associated with my truck just dying while going down the road(ford tech said it can if entire plug is backed out, losing entire bank, it was). He said typically it will run bad but not die?? Actually he got me so confused explaining that the 7.3 has so much electrically that could go wrong, wiring harnesses etc. What I found interesting was, that he said even though my RPM gauge would move while cranking the engine over doesn't necessarily mean the CPS is good? He said almost always the CPS was swapped out and often that was the problem. He also said It didn't matter if the CPS had 5,000 miles on it or 150,000 miles on it, he would always check it. Basically it's the default troubleshooting for the 7.3. He also recommended not spraying starting fluid or wd40 into the intake. In the end he basically told me to try the CPS and for the $29 I would at the very least have a back up in the glove box if that wasnt the problem.
Also to have it buzzed tested, which could take an hour or several hours trying to isolate the problem.
Additionally, I went to the new owner and spoke to him as well, he didn't think the CPS was bad, but thought the IDM, ICP or IPR was bad. Need to do a buzz test but he also said it could be an hour or several hours to find problerm. He also didnt recommend spraying starting fluid into intake.
Im more confused than ever now. I know that it is getting fuel to the bowl, and voltage is good.
 

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yes I understand your confusion the 7.3 is a very complex setup becuase of all the electrical crap. Every mechanic out there will have their own opinion and honestly most of the ford techs dont know squat about the powerstroke i have found that out time and time again. that being said I would honestly try an ether shot it will not hurt anything as long as you dont overlaod it. I have owned my 94.5 powerstroke since it was new and have been through just about everything and puzzled the ford mechanics so many times that theyve been begging me to work there for a while. Just try the easy and least expensive first. Many times on these trucks its usually just a sensor or relay. and did you say thetruck would just flat out die on you while driving? If so will it fire back up right off or what happenswhen it quits? mine did this and it turned out to be the high pressure oil pump and i talked to countless mechanics about it and none of them said anything bout the hpop.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No my truck quit running completely while driving on the freeway and has not restarted. The passenger side uvch was backed way out, i plugged it back in. My truck still has yet to start. Only code was p1316. I was thinking about the hpop, going to check oil level. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok sprayed starter fluid into air intake....didnt even try to start.
*Hpop is full, rpm gauge moves while cranking, fuses ok, voltage is 12v drops to 10v while cranking, No CEL on, no codes, wait to start comes on then goes off like normal, oil pressure gauge shows oil pressure while cranking.
 

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yea hpop's do different things when they go out I have put two on mine over the years. One just quit all together and the other would run then quit, sit for a minute then crank rite bak up. neither leaked oil but I have heard of many doing that.
 

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NEVER EVER EVER SPRAY STARTER FLUID WITH THE GLOW PLUGS ACTIVATED.

1316 should be IDM Yes your truck will or could still buzz test with a bad IDM.

While complicating these trucks aren't that hard they practically tell you what is wrong with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
originally had p1316 code when truck died.....after reconnecting passenger side uvch, the CEL went off. However, my truck still will not start. Cleared p1316 w/ scanner, no codes at this time and no CEL.
I understand about the use of starting fluid, it appears forum members are really split on this practice.
I'm leaning towards the IDM now, kind of curious that while the uvch was loose with a bad connection it may have damaged the IDM, just a thought?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok did'nt get much feedback, other than do a buzz test, since I nor any of my friends have a scanner that can do an in depth test. Bad as I hate to I will be taking it to Ford dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ford tech came by my shop used his Snap On scanner, IDM was bad, buzz test on injectors was fine. Sold me a used IDM $150 and charged me $50 for diagnostic. $200 and my Big Red Machine is rolling again.
 

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im glad you got the big red up and running again.But using starting fluid could of be a fatality to the old 7.3 i have seen it time and time again when glow plugs a activated the are red hot and when either hits them the blow apart then they lay there on top of your piston beating away at i eventally leading to a rebuild. or they stick out of the top of your valve cover like a little toggle switch i have seen that one before too.NEVER NEVER use starting fluid with your glow plugs active on anything!!!!! 200 bucks you sure got a deal on that one.:)
 
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