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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
OK I don't think I'll get a reply but at lease I can vent.Have a 07 6.0l no start. I have 53.0 FICM, Sync,IRP will reach well over 500psi, even over 1000 psi, IPR at 85% but will get back down to 60% or so and try to start. Batters very good and hot. Placed a rest fitting and gauge at the IPR Valve port Held pressure for 12+ hours. Just put studs, OEM Ford Headgaskets, hipo fitting, Weleded up EGR Cooler, New Ford Oil Cooler, new idlers, Up graded water pump, Mismito radiator, Cooling filter system, Blue spring and banjo fittings upgraded, new dummy & Stand pipes FORD's upgraded one, 54Volt FICM, new glow plugs and harness, Turbo Cleaned, new IPR & IPC valve and sensor. So, what am I missing here? I have oil pressure on gauge cluster, new oil correct Ford Filter and cap new degas bottle and cap. I've cranked on this thing a lot and I mean a lot. So what did I do wrong? I am a pretty fair mechanic and pay attention to detail. I have noticed some exhaust smoke on top of the intake manifold when it do try and start, but just never has started. What or when is the smoke coming from? No I have not ran a compression test, truck was running great then started spitting out water and blew off the degas cap so head gaskets and studs. SUGGESTION?? Thanks I've watched a lot of videos!!

Where you think the smoke on top maybe coming from? I can't crank and watch at same time
I'll try and find someone to help with that.
 

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Well the only things I can think of are:
Can you hear your fuel pump running?
What is your fuel pressure reading?
Make sure your connectors are fully clicked locked on the FICM.
BTL
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Great advice, I don't have Fuel Pressure reading but will, fuel pumps running I believe FICM is plugged in good, but I will check again. I also will check plugs on fender well by the battery driver's side, I did pull the cab so I unplugged these as well. I checked all the grounds all looks good. This is my first time to pull a cab but it went smooth and pretty easy and the same going back together. I'll check Fuel Pressure and FICM Connections. ( have got it to start just for a bit sounds like a jack hammer) it will be late tomorrow before I can look at it again, Thanks for your input.
 

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What are the codes?

Forscan is the best for pulling codes - unless you have a Snap-On tool
 
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After you verify FP and injector clatter, double check your FICM connections. Then check your FICM connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK Guys, did all the above. I think I have a FICM Harness issue, I've cable tied it and that seamed to help. Finally got it to start!
But I have questions on what I am seeing on my Scangauge II The ICP is 578 @ idle 689rpm the FMP is 54.5 volts and the one I am concerned about is the IPR Valve being @ 73.8 @ just idle! What gives? I did a air test at the IRP valve port w/gauge and it held 80 PSI for 12 hours...so do I still have a Hi Pressure oil leak? Where & How?? @ 2302 RMP the IPR Valve is up to 86.7 percent! ICP @ 1481 psi. Where do I go from here. Also truck throttle is late coming back down after I rev it up a little bit? And truck doesn't have the normal amount of seat of the pants power at normal driving. All related I am sure. Hope you guys have some insite into this for me. Thanks!
 

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First of all, 80psi is pretty low. When you say "held for 12 hours" do you mean you turned off the air supply and it held at 80? What was the applied PSI?

Is your new IPR a motorcraft part? If not, I'd recommend you try a motorcraft part. If yes, I'd check the the ipr pigtail and voltage. Make sure you are getting full voltage at the power side of the IPR and that the control (ground) is truly getting close to zero on the 'on' pulses.

Might be nice to measure the IPR resistance as well.

It's rare for a later model 6.0 to have an weak HPOP issue.

I'll keep thinking about this.

For those who say earlier edits of this.. I beg forgiveness. I'm exhausted and should have left this response for the morning.
 

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Might want to pull the IPR valve and check for trash on the screen, or even a torn screen.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions!! I TOOK THEM!!! I am pretty fair mechanic but at 68 I can still learn a thing or two.
First off: Yes the IPR was aftermarket....tried it as a suggestion Price was the issue on that! But BAD!! I did put the original one back in and the results are: IPR @ 24.2 Percent @ 689 RPM ICP @ 578 FMP 54.5 volts Runs Great! I can change a IPR valve pretty quickly now days. I sprayed silicone spray into FICM connections and Cable tied them tightly! and Then I got them tighter still, hope this solves that issue. I would like to buy a good 1855214 C92 Harness cheap. I still have to charge the A/C since I did have the cab off to pull heads and do the ARP Studs and OEM FORD Head-gaskets 20mm, I also used OEM Ford Oil Cooler. Best to always use OEM PArts for sure!

OK One more question Coolant and what additives if any? Yes Ford Anti-Freeze is good but how much a gallon guys? IS there a option here or not? I do have a coolant filter on as well. Yes this is my last Truck I'll own so better make it last.

Thanks Again and a Big Thanks to DieselTechRon!! Man I miss that guys his videos are the best, easy to understand and not stupid loke some are. Have a Blessed Day Guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Woo hoo!. I'm glad the IPR did it. Stay away from aftermarket parts like that. I know it hurts the wallet, but I believe it pays in the long run.

DieselTechRon RIP
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions!! I TOOK THEM!!! I am pretty fair mechanic but at 68 I can still learn a thing or two.
First off: Yes the IPR was aftermarket....tried it as a suggestion Price was the issue on that! But BAD!! I did put the original one back in and the results are: IPR @ 24.2 Percent @ 689 RPM ICP @ 578 FMP 54.5 volts Runs Great! I can change a IPR valve pretty quickly now days. I sprayed silicone spray into FICM connections and Cable tied them tightly! and Then I got them tighter still, hope this solves that issue. I would like to buy a good 1855214 C92 Harness cheap. I still have to charge the A/C since I did have the cab off to pull heads and do the ARP Studs and OEM FORD Head-gaskets 20mm, I also used OEM Ford Oil Cooler. Best to always use OEM PArts for sure!

OK One more question Coolant and what additives if any? Yes Ford Anti-Freeze is good but how much a gallon guys? IS there a option here or not? I do have a coolant filter on as well. Yes this is my last Truck I'll own so better make it last.

Thanks Again and a Big Thanks to DieselTechRon!! Man I miss that guys his videos are the best, easy to understand and not stupid loke some are. Have a Blessed Day Guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Question: This morning upon start up noticed a lot of smoke coming up from below or around or somewhere smoke. Not electrical, cleared up after truck started. What are your thoughts of possibilities? Intake manifold, oil filter housing?, or what? Also long crank cold, little longer than normal
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Y Pipe leak got that fixed.....now it has died for no apparent reason.....ok after it died in the shop while trying to charge A/C. I started wiggling wires is order.....the wire going to the Crank Sensor I think was the issue. It did show No SYC when no start. Wiggled it started right up ran fine 20 minutes later something, same results no syc and wiggled same two wires at the point behind fuel filter, and it started right up. Split open the harness didn't really see anything left it open for now , tried to make it die by wiggling same two wires never did. Sad, wish it did. So I'll keep a eye on that issue. If I had a extra $750 for a OEM Harness I would just buy one and the injector harness too. Always something. But I am BULL Headed, I'll get it. May order a pigtail and replace all the way to the CPS and splice into the main harness. truck only has 118,000 miles and I don't drive it everyday, just when I need to haul something requiring a trailer. O' FYI this truck did get great mileage thanks to a non hot rod custom tuner by a guy who worked with Moats, he's in OHIO.
Again guys thanks I'll get all the little things fixed. (I did get my puddle light & door lights wired up and that's good.) Ron
 

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One trick you may want to try with the FICM, is to cut a short piece of heater hose and place that under the plugs to help press them into the sockets
 
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