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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need some feedback on this. My truck is at the dealer and I am having a problem with the coolant being pushed out of the reservoir. I know that this sounds like a head gasket but the Dealer through me a curve. They said that it could also be a oil cooler causing this problem. Next they said that this is more common then a head gasket leaking. Funny how he also said that the tech feels it is a head gasket. The truck is out of warranty.

Has anyone ever heard of this? The dealer said that this will cost $4,153.00 plus tax to replace the head gaskets and oil cooler. I am providing the head studs.

If the oil cooler is a common problem with this , I will replace it with the head gaskets. I have never heard or seen anyone post this on the forum.

Thanks in advance

PS:
The dealer said that the temps betweent he coolant and oil are fin. I have been reading that if the temps are more then 25 degrees apart, this would indicate that the oil cooler could be bad. I have the EGR cooler blocked. Turbo has been cleaned recently. Dealer did say while the truck was there that the #1 fuel injector has been failing. Anyone advise location of #1 fuel injector. I would really want to know if the oil cooler can cause the same symptoms as bad head gaskets?

Thanks again in advance
 

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Well oil coolers are common problems. They get plugged up then slow the coolant flow down so it gets too hot, then goes into the egr cooler and gets super heated and flash boils out of your reservoir. I believe it is common practice now to replace egr cooler when doing the oil cooler. But i would just install an egr delete kit. If it is head gaskets good luck to you, thats a lot of money to spend. Have you considered doing the work yourself? there are a bunch of write ups on here that involve doing headgaskets and oil coolers in the truck. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well oil coolers are common problems. They get plugged up then slow the coolant flow down so it gets too hot, then goes into the egr cooler and gets super heated and flash boils out of your reservoir. I believe it is common practice now to replace egr cooler when doing the oil cooler. But i would just install an egr delete kit. If it is head gaskets good luck to you, thats a lot of money to spend. Have you considered doing the work yourself? there are a bunch of write ups on here that involve doing headgaskets and oil coolers in the truck. Good luck
Thanks Mike, I am sorry. I added the following info when you left this post. I do have the EGR cooler blocked. My friend said that he will do it for $1,400.00 for labor only. He will lift the body off. I only have seen the temp rise when I hit hills with the truck towning a 46 foot gooseneck with living quarters. I never heard the clutch fan kick in until I have this problem. It is just getting worse. Thanks for the response.
 

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It sounds like nows the time for you to do the head gaskets, 1400 isnt bad, and for another 240 bucks you can get the oil cooler kit, through in a coolant filter and never worry about the oil cooler again!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
It sounds like nows the time for you to do the head gaskets, 1400 isnt bad, and for another 240 bucks you can get the oil cooler kit, through in a coolant filter and never worry about the oil cooler again!
Here is another curve? :crazy: Coolant filter?
Where can I get the oil cooler kit for this price? The dealer said it was more then that, but they are a dealer - they will be the highest in pricing. :nod:

Anything else I should know? :dunno: While I have this apart?
*Head gaskets (2 different sizes)
*oil cooler
*coolant filter
*Updated Turbo drain tube
*one injector (#1 cyl)
*Inspect injector O rings
*Coolant Filter
*HPOP
*STC

Any tips about where I can get the parts at a reasonable price?

Thanks for all the info. :thumb:
 

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I got my oil cooler rebuild kit from ford for 240. Coolant filter kit from thedieselsite.com for 130. head gaskets and studs i paid 650 from river city diesel. if you look around this site most of the sponsers are priced very fair and will treat you right!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got my oil cooler rebuild kit from ford for 240. Coolant filter kit from thedieselsite.com for 130. head gaskets and studs i paid 650 from river city diesel. if you look around this site most of the sponsers are priced very fair and will treat you right!

I bought the ARP head studs a few weeks ago. I would have bought the head gaskets but I am told there are 2 different listings for my year. Just my luck, my year had two listings. :doh:

I will search that site and also the sponsors of this forum.

Ah, a rebuild kit. I did not know that was an option. I would have thought I would have had to buy a new one.

You are one for answers and knowledge. :nod: :thumb:
 

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If you are doing head gaskets, I would do the HPOP STC, the oil rail plug 0-ring and the updated turbo drain tube while it is apart. Also check the o-rings on the injectors. Might as well since you have it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you are doing head gaskets, I would do the HPOP STC, the oil rail plug 0-ring and the updated turbo drain tube while it is apart. Also check the o-rings on the injectors. Might as well since you have it apart.

More curves. :)
What is a HPOP STC?
I need to replace one injector I will check/replace all the O rings on the injectors. Good idea. :thumb:
The updated Turbo drain tube is much better?

Thanks for the help and info.
Rob
 

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the biggest problem with these things is the oil coolers-egr coolers and fan clutch if the engine starts to heat up on hills and the fan clutch does not engage the fan clutch may be a problem. the dealer should have tested it as part of the diagnosis. the fan clutch will engage at 215 degrees of oil or coolant temp. does not matter which. this can cause the same problems you are having and can cause overheating problems. i'm a ford diesel tech in southern arizona and see alot of these kinds of problems.
 

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The HPOP is the high pressure oil pump and the STC is the snap to connector that usually fails and leads to long cranking and no starting when the engine is warm. I would def. do the STC while you have it apart.
 

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I only know because I just went through all of this and will be picking up my truck tomorrow. Head gaskets were blown in 3 spots. New gaskets, ARP studs, replaced EGR cooler, rebuilt oil cooler, new HPOP, new STC and pressure regulator, new oil tubes in the heads and we replaced all the o-rings that we came across. HPOP was trashed due to pressure regulator coming apart and the parts fell in the the pump. Should run like a new truck. I am just glad to get my truck back.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the biggest problem with these things is the oil coolers-egr coolers and fan clutch if the engine starts to heat up on hills and the fan clutch does not engage the fan clutch may be a problem. the dealer should have tested it as part of the diagnosis. the fan clutch will engage at 215 degrees of oil or coolant temp. does not matter which. this can cause the same problems you are having and can cause overheating problems. i'm a ford diesel tech in southern arizona and see alot of these kinds of problems.

On the hill's, the fan clutch would engage. Now I know it is at 215 degrees. The EGR cooler is blocked. Would a bad oil cooler push coolant out of the overflow? It has pushed coolant out while maintaining normal engine temp. If the oil cooler is and easy fix, I should try it first. Then have the head gaskets replaced over the winter after racing season.

Mike mentioned that there is a rebuild kit. :thumb:
I will have to do some research to see where the oil cooler is. I heard that it is near the EGR cooler. The dealer said that it is about a 3 to 4 hour job. I am thinking it will take the same amount of time as it was for me to replace the EGR cooler. I replaced that in my driveway last year.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How does the coolant look? Usually when the oil cooler is going, you will get engine oil in the coolant. Is it dark?
The coolant looks great. I check it often. Thanks for this tip.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The HPOP is the high pressure oil pump and the STC is the snap to connector that usually fails and leads to long cranking and no starting when the engine is warm. I would def. do the STC while you have it apart.
I will replace them while I have it apart. I do plan on keeping the truck for a long time. I have to much invested in it - FASS Fuel system, Rhino Lining, Gooseneck hitch, Rear air bags... you guys know what I mean. It only has 50,000 miles on it too.

always replace the injector o rings any time the injectors are removed. kit #cm 5055 from ford.
I would never reuse an old O ring. It would most likely break while trying to take it off. Thanks for the part number. :thumb: I actually thought an O ring would come with a new injector. Funny, why would they do that? :rofl:

I only know because I just went through all of this and will be picking up my truck tomorrow. Head gaskets were blown in 3 spots. New gaskets, ARP studs, replaced EGR cooler, rebuilt oil cooler, new HPOP, new STC and pressure regulator, new oil tubes in the heads and we replaced all the o-rings that we came across. HPOP was trashed due to pressure regulator coming apart and the parts fell in the the pump. Should run like a new truck. I am just glad to get my truck back.
Your info has helped me. Where you pushing fluid out of the coolant res.?

Thanks for all the help and tips, keep them coming. I have a note pad with all the notes from here.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The Oil Cooler is right underneathe the oil filter housing.
That sounds easy. I think the intake has to come off for that. I am still thinking of just trying to rebuild the oil cooler now, hook up the trailer and try it out around the area. Then do the head gaskets in the off season.
 

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Mine was pushing coolant out of the overflow also. The clutch fan was kicking on and off for a while and then it started staying on all the time. It did help a little when I replaced the thermostat. I think it was sticking. I tried starting with the easy fixes first to see if that would solve the problem.
 
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