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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently installed the 6.0 solutions kit from MKM customs on my 05 super duty. New head gaskets, head studs, egr delete, and oil cooler. i got it all back together n started it, it ran fine for about 10 minutes, and then i started hearing almost a loping sound from the exhaust, over the turbo whistle and im hearing a slight ticking sound from the engine. At first it was running rough, but it seems to have smoothed out. I pulled some codes and they all pointed at a cylinder number 5 fault. I also am seeing a slight amount of white smoke when it idles. ive checked the coolant to see if it thats what is causing the white smoke, but the coolant level remains exactly the same.

My first thought was push rod, so i pulled the valve cover and pulled both out for that cylinder and they are perfectly straight. everything else looks fine on that bank. I cleared the codes and they havent came back. Does this sound like an injector? or some other push rod? maybe a turbo problem? any help or info is greatly appreciated
 

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Sounds like injector. Verify you are properly plugged to harness. If everything looks good and you are holding good oil pressure, try again. Injectors can be slow in picking up the fuel because of air in your system. If nothing is rattling or banging like something is loose, try it again. Let it warm up and it should start to clear up.
 

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Are you sure you checked the pushrods,rocker arms, and valve bridges and that they are installed correctly? Sounds like the exact same symptoms mine had after head gaskets and mine was #6 exhaust pushrod bent/not seated correctly. Double check everything...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When i first put them in, i did, i double checked all of them and triple checked that the brass side was up. i spent a while on it and took my time just so this wouldnt happen. the cylinder that threw the code, i just pulled the push rods out and rolled them on my kitchen table, they are perfectly straight, and rocker arm clips are all in place, and everything looks right. i just put them back in and im gonna put it back together and see if maybe one just wasnt seated all the way like you said. my buddy works at the ford dealership and we'll do an injector test just for kicks. but before i put the valve cover back on, i'll be sure to go through it and overlook it thoroughly again. thank you guys very much.
 

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Yea thats the next best thing is to do an injector test. If its not a pushrod causing an exhaust valve to stay open somewhere and dump fuel out (and not combusting causing the smoke) then its an injecotor stuck. If it's not an injector then I would check all your exhaust pushrods. As bad as it sucks I would pull them out one by one and check them. I had one that looked fine from the top but once i tried to pull it out i could tell it was bent really bad at the bottom. The pushrod can get bent just right causing your exhaust valves to not close on that cylinder causing the lopey exhaust sound and cause it to dump fuel out of that cylinder because the ex. vavles are staying open and wont let it fire in that cylinder and its just dumping fuel in your exhaust causing the smoke. The same thing can happen to your intake valves if an intake pushrod is bent or rocker isn't seated but that causes a loud backfiring/popping through the intake. I had the exact same symptoms just about 3 weeks ago after my head gasket install. Just take your time and don't get frustrated buddy. You will figure it out. Pushrods are only like $5 each so hopefully that will get her fixed for you. If you have any more questions let me know man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That sounds about right, I was hoping it would be the cylinder that through the code. But maybe there's more than one problem. If it isn't number 5 injector, I'll start pulling push rods. So thank you for all the information, it's been a major help.
 

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Good luck man. Ya if its not an injector I would take your time and pull each push-rod one by one. If your getting backfiring through your exhaust and the valve isn't closing it will throw a cylinder contribution code ( low/no compression). When you have them check the injectors have them do a cylinder contribution check. I had that done and it told me cyl#6 no compression (the exhaust valve wasn't closing due to the bent push-rod).
 

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How did you like the 6.0 solutions kit. I am gettin ready to do mine and am thinking about gettin the same kit. Did it come with valve cover gaskets or did you have to get them seperatly. Did you have to get alot of other things or is the kit pretty much complete. Thanks for any info you can give an this and good luck with your truck.
 

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How did you like the 6.0 solutions kit. I am gettin ready to do mine and am thinking about gettin the same kit. Did it come with valve cover gaskets or did you have to get them seperatly. Did you have to get alot of other things or is the kit pretty much complete. Thanks for any info you can give an this and good luck with your truck.

The vavle cover gaskets are re-useable. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well i did the injector test, and 5 was out of spec. so i replaced it. but it's still throwing the code. on that cylinder and making the noise, and symptoms. I havent had time to test it again to see if the injector is still showing that its out of spec. Im going to do a relative compression test and if compression is low than i have no idea, as ive checked pushrods on that cylinder already. I just hope it isn't a lifter or something. But if compression is okay and injector is out of spec, i guess im gonna check ficm and all wiring N whatnot. Do you know if a lifter issue would give those symptoms?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I really was impressed with the mkm customs kit. i got it on sale for like $1280, and it was remarkably simple to install. The head gaskets are definately high quality, and the oil cooler as well. the only thing i had to buy that didnt come in the kit was valve cover gaskets, they are re-useable, but mine kinda looked a bit haggard so I figured id just go ahead n replace them. and a few of them little black rocker arm retainer clips. i broke one and it was a pain in the *** to find the little piece that fell in the head.
 

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I just installed my mkm solution kit and I have the same symptoms. I'm going to check the push rods and rockers later today but I have a question. Can I just undo the nuts on the head studs with the rocker arms or do I have to undo them all in sequence then re torque?
 

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Well i did the injector test, and 5 was out of spec. so i replaced it. but it's still throwing the code. on that cylinder and making the noise, and symptoms. I havent had time to test it again to see if the injector is still showing that its out of spec. Im going to do a relative compression test and if compression is low than i have no idea, as ive checked pushrods on that cylinder already. I just hope it isn't a lifter or something. But if compression is okay and injector is out of spec, i guess im gonna check ficm and all wiring N whatnot. Do you know if a lifter issue would give those symptoms?
If it were me I would pull all the rockers and everything double check and triple check everything. If you thinking a lifter than you need to replace it before it messes up the lifter boar. aka the block!! I would hate to see that happen. we have been seeing more and more of this issue lately at the dealership.
 

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I just got mine back from having all this work done. I had the same lope sound issue. Had to replace the fuel injector harness ($200 installed). That didn't fully fix it and it turned out Ford had yanked on the harness or something at one time during other warranty repairs and they damaged the wiring on two injectors. Had to replace those injectors and then it ran perfectly.
 

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well for what it is worth I just did the same thing and got my kit from a company called IPR and it came with every gasket and O ring you could ever want...... also as for the lifter I had the same problems when I got my truck back together. so here is some stuff to look for I had 2 bent lifters on pass side. on drivers side I had 2 bent lifters also but before I put valve covers back on I pulled the ficm relay and had a buddy turn the motor over while I watched and inspected all lifters/rockers/bridges/valves and I found some rockers that didnt look right. after closer inspection they were cracked. I also check the free play on the rockers and found one with too much play and had to replace the plastic clip holding it on.... I have also heard of the little ball on the end of the rocker that sits on the bridge falling off some how??? so take your time and look real close... do your research everyone wants to point at injectors and 6.0 do have injector problems but its not always that easy and you dont want to be a "parts replacer" it is to expensive!!!!! good luck:crazy:
 

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My first thought was push rod, so i pulled the valve cover and pulled both out for that cylinder and they are perfectly straight. everything else looks fine on that bank. I cleared the codes and they havent came back. Does this sound like an injector? or some other push rod? maybe a turbo problem? any help or info is greatly appreciated
Can you pull the push rod out with out pulling the head bolt?
 

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Can you pull the push rod out with out pulling the head bolt?
Yes you can, absolutely. There is no need to touch the 10 headbolts or ARP studs once they are torqued, unless you are having to pull the Rocker Box or Head back off. Also, once you torque the head bolts or studs, it is ill-advised to release torque and re-torque after achieving desired torque application.
To pull the push rod you have to release torque on the rocker arm which has nothing to do with the actual torquing of the head, rocker box to block. One of the biggest issues with re-assembling after a head removal is ensuring you install the push rods correctly seated in the Lifter, then in the Rocker Arm seat. It is important that you visibly see that the steel ball is properly seated within the rocker arm assembly and attachment for ball is seated within the rocker arm. Simply slide the rocker assembly down on the rocker mount and install bolt. Inspect to see that push rod is seated in lifter and in the rocker arm seat then apply final torque of rocker arm.
 

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Yes you can, absolutely. There is no need to touch the 10 headbolts or ARP studs once they are torqued, unless you are having to pull the Rocker Box or Head back off. Also, once you torque the head bolts or studs, it is ill-advised to release torque and re-torque after achieving desired torque application.
To pull the push rod you have to release torque on the rocker arm which has nothing to do with the actual torquing of the head, rocker box to block. One of the biggest issues with re-assembling after a head removal is ensuring you install the push rods correctly seated in the Lifter, then in the Rocker Arm seat. It is important that you visibly see that the steel ball is properly seated within the rocker arm assembly and attachment for ball is seated within the rocker arm. Simply slide the rocker assembly down on the rocker mount and install bolt. Inspect to see that push rod is seated in lifter and in the rocker arm seat then apply final torque of rocker arm.
Thanks man. I'm having a similar problem with my truck on #8 cyl.
I have pulled the valve cover and inspected everything, but didn't pull the push rods out. They didn't look like their was a problem. I will fell better if I pull them out and check them before the head comes off.
Thanks!
 

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You'll have to pull the Oil Rail to get to the Rocker Arm Assembly. I think it is 8 bolts, but don't pry the oil rail out. Just yank on it a couple of times and it will come free. Once out you will leak oil out of the rail, so be prepared. Once out of the way, you have a clear path to rockers, push rods and injectors. If you pull a rocker off, check the push rod to make sure it isn't bent. If you're checking # 8 then I assume you've pulled the degas tank out of the way...
 
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