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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I just completed several upgrades including 190cc 75% over Warren injectors, new stand pipes, new oil rail plugs, new hpop stc fitting, airdogg 150, 4in mbrp turbo back exhaust, KC stage 2 turbo kit, custom tunes from innovative diesel, and arp studs and new head gaskets and now have a cylinder #4 contribution code. The truck starts and runs fine and doesn't have the code untill the truck warms up then it has a rough idle and no power. I have pulled the ipr and the screen is clean. The ICP is around 590 at idle and IPR is around 21% which seems normal. At WOT ICP was 2000 which seemed a little low and IPR was around 83% which seemed high. I hooked shop air into the oil rail at the passenger side valve cover and can hear what sounds like a leak toward the rear under the head on the driver side. I haven't made a connector to put power to the ipr valve while I'm pressurizing the system is this necessary? I also haven't pulled the #4 injector to check orings I just didn't want to pull a head stud nut unless I have to. Any help would be much appreciated the truck has been down over a month and would like to get it going after dropping all that $$ in it.
 

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Yes, the ipr must be energized when testing.
What year is the truck? Does it restart once hot? Or do you have to let it cool down?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The truck is a 2005. Yes it will restart when hot just a slight rough idle. I will setup something to allow me to energize the ipr when I pressurize the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
One more thing I forgot to mention. There is some noticeable blow by when it's running coming from the dipstick and the valve cover vent it's just a slight haze I initially that was maybe the lube used for the nuts on the arp studs burning off or maybe wd40 I used to clean some of the sealing surfaces but I'm pretty sure it's blow by now.
 

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If it restarts hot, this is not a leak.
Because of the tune, you'll need to monitor icp voltage to get an accurate measure. The reading you're seeing is likely falsified

Run the bubble test. You more likely have combustion bleeding back through the fuel system
 

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I doubt your ICP is accurate. Since you've got 190/75 injectors, I'd assume you're running a custom tune. The ICP is spoofed to get more power. You will need to check ICPv and convert the voltages to get true ICP pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I figured out the problem and hopefully I didn't destroy anything. I opened up the valve cover and everything looked good so I swaped the #2 and #4 injector and the cylinder contribution problem followed the injector but since they were new injectors and I really didnt want to pull all of that stuff apart again for the 3rd time and I hadnt drove my truck for a month I thought maybe If I ran a cetane additive and the archoil friction modifier the injector might clear up so I drove it about 60 miles which is my round trip to work and the code didn't show up on the 30 miles there but came back on my way home. Tried it again the next day and it ran terrible on the way to work and I noticed my low fuel pressure warning light that comes on at 50 psi briefly flash when I would get into the throttle which seemed really strange since I am running the airdog150 and blue spring mod. On the way home it died on me about 10 miles from home I let it cool of a little and it started back up but It didn't want to crank which it has also been doing when it's hot but it was way worse than normal this time. I made it about 9 miles and it died again I let it cool a little started again and made it about 1/8 of a mile from my house let it cool again and restarted this time really really rough idle and tons of white smoke and after the 1/8 mile to the house I started hearing a terrible knocking sound as I pulled in the driveway. So from what I have read It sounds like an injector stuck open dumping fuel and causing vapor lock that is why I was having slow cranks while hot and the white smoke was fuel basically vaporizing in the exhaust. I called Warren and they are sending me a new injector I just hope I didnt cause any other problems running it like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One more thing I just remembered which I'm not sure about. I was watching my IPR, EBP, and ICP when this started and they were all looking good the previous 50 miles until it started bogging down and died but when that happened my IPR went into the 80's and my ICP was around 1000 when the truck died and from what I understand unless the ICP drops below 500 it should still idle at least so that shouldn't have been the reason it died but it seems kinda strange that the IPR went into the 80's.
 

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That's because It's trying to keep from stalling. Normal
 

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Sorry this is kinda a long story. I think I have finally found the source of all my problems and it's not good. After installing the new injector and getting everything back together for the third time I checked my oil and it was high and I noticed something on the dipstick that looked like a fabric of some sort but couldn't tell what it was but it had kinda like a dryer sheet texture but covered in oil. There was just a couple very very small pieces. I had the dipstick completely out during the rebuild so I thought maybe something got in there when it was off and it wasn't metal on in the dipstick so I wasnt super concerned about it. I was more concerned about why my oil level was half an inch high. So I drained some out through a screen and it was terrible smelling. It had what I'm pretty sure was small chunks of the grease used for the arp studs kinda grey sludge it was also stuck to the magnet but was completely smooth like greese the oil also had a bunch of diesel mixed in which is where the extra "oil" came from but the bigger problem was a bunch of tiny pieces of something that I'm thinking was either a piece of the oil filter or I somehow left a paper towel somewhere in the engine during rebuild which is definitely possible I did most of it at night sleep deprived. I found a pretty big piece about the size of a quarter in the oil filter housing setting on the drain and that seemed more like paper towel. So I drained all the oil and put new oil and filter in it with the new injector and tried to start it but it was hydrolocked. Today I removed all the glow plugs and disconnected the fuel pump, ficm, and glow plug harness and cranked it from the started wire under the hood. Fuel came out of almost every cylinder for a decent amount of cranks. Finally it all cleared out but number 8 it slowed down but wouldn't stop completely untill I pulled the filter under the truck and drained some of the fuel from the motor then it stoped. I reinstalled everything and kinda hoping for a miracle the number 8 might come loose if I start it I started it and it cranked fine and started up but immedialy was blowimg a little white smoke amd ideling a little rough so I let it idle about 5 min and reved it to about 2k a couple times hoping it would come loose but no luck just lots of white smoke. I killed it and checked the codes and just the ones from before were there so I cleared them and tryed to start again and it was hydrolocked again. Hopefully I haven't bent a rod yet but from whay what I've read that's not real common just from the starter. I also noticed there was actually diesel coming out the exhaust and dripping on the ground. I'm guessing the injector I changed was hung up closed so the truck through a imbalance code due to no fuel but the others were spraying so no codes. Now I'm not sure what to do and would appreciate any advice. I'm thinking remove all the injectors and remove the spool valves clean them all and reinstall the injectors. Also remove oil cooler to see if anything is in there and check the screen under it and remove the IPR valve and clean that screen even though the scanguage was showing it around 23% and my pressure around 700 which cold seems about right. I'm just not sure how to get that junk out of the system. I assume I'm probably just going to have to keep an extra injector handy because it will probably take a while to completely clear out. Anyone have any experience with cleaning up after somebody doing something this dumb please let me know I'm about to end up bankrupt and divorced if don't stop spending weeks at a time working on this thing haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I pulled one of the injectors and the spool valve was definitely hung up and moved back and forth like there was greese not oil lubricating it. So I cleaned it up and used rotella t6 to lube it up and now it slides back and forth with no effort at all. I imagine the rest are the same. I didnt see any contaminates at all so maybe whatever was in the oil didn't make it that far.
 

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Did you get them all pulled and cleaned? Is she running?
 

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No, hopefully this weekend I will have a chance to pull it all back apart. I ordered a compression tester also to make sure I didn't do any damage with all the hydrolocking and new turbo bearings for my new turbo for the 3rd time during all this. I still have no idea why the oil went from brand new to looking like it had 20k on it in less than 100 miles. The truck never had any issues before no stiction at all and the oil always still looked pretty decent even after 5k and while I had everything apart everything looked pretty clean inside. My only guess is there was a big carbon build-up somewhere that came loose with the archoil and it did what it's suppose to and dissolved it into the oil making the oil black and sticky. I still plan on using it but I will definitely be keeping a close eye on my oil for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got them all pulled and found the cause of all the problems. I guess I over torqued 5 of the 8 injectors causing the copper washer to fail and that blew out the lower o rings. That caused low compression and blow by of all that half burn fuel into my valve cover and crank case which junked up my oil and caused all the spool valves to start sticking. I took them all apart and cleaned and re lubed them today. They were all sticking pretty bad but after cleaning they moved easy and smooth . The weird thing is the only code I got during this was a cylinder contribution error on one of the three injectors that still looked good and I somehow managed to swap that one with one of the only two remaining good ones when I was trouble shooting that code so I had no idea the other 5 were blown out.
 

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I've never tried Archoil but I've heard good things about it. I have tried hot shot secret and Revx to help prevent stiction. I prefer the Revx personally. I know this go around I will be on top of things. I'm always running a monitor, 5w 40 T6 and Revx. Dropping that much money on a new set of sticks, I don't want to give Warren Diesel any more money than I have to. Hahahahaha.
 
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