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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello all. just thought i would share a few pics of a headstud install with the cab on and motor in. in all honesty, now i see why shops charge so much for this job :( i am just getting ready to ship the heads out to be checked and machined if need be. i tell ya, if you are contemplating doing it this way, have patience. and LOTS of it. as you can see from the pics, i had alot of help :hehe:
the drivers side was the hardest by a long shot. for the guys going to be doing this job, i have read alot saying to massage the firewall to get the head off but it is the bolt that hits the firewall while trying to pull it out. all i did was pull it out as far as it would go, then get a 41/2 " grinder with a cut off wheel and cut it in half as you cant re-use them anyway. came out like a charm. oh yeah be sure to cover everything up before that.
on the passenger side, i have seen a few guys remove the cover for the evaporator to get at the valve cover bolts and such. i removed the whole heater box assembly and i could almost lie in there! it was sssooooo much nicer to do it this way although i did have to evacuate the ac system.
the fricken heads just have to be 88 pounds dont they!!!!!!! buggers to come out. especially the drivers side with no room plus i cant seem to get the stupid oil dip stick out of the block. i had to weave the head around the dipstick cause it goes through the exhaust manifold and i didnt take off the manifolds yet.
 

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Good deal! Looks like you have a couple of good helpers there... Congrats on doing it yourself. Just a quick question. Have you considered how you are going to get the rear stud installed on the driver side? Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah. once i cut the head off the old bolt, it slid right out no problem. so the new studs are just that. studs. so i am sure that it will just slide in like the original came out after cutting it. hopefully:doh:
the pic of the dodge is what i am forced to drive in the meantime. oh well, cant complain. at least its a diesel!!!
clarence
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what do you think of that nice turbo pic? see the one blade? not sure where that went or how it happened. it is a recon-ed turbo installed 2005. my truck is an 03 by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
also, if anyone is going to do this, the glow plugs stick out the bottom of the head by 1/4". i found out the hard way. head was heavy, i was tired, and i plopped it down on the table and bent all 4 in that head! oh well more money to spend i guess. ah, i needed new ones anyway. at least that is what i told the wife.
clarence

i will do a better write up of it and take a whack more pics as it goes together to help others out cause my batteries went dead in the camera while i was taking it apart. freakin cold here when i started. i had to wait for it to stop snowing to do this.
 

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what part of manitoba are you from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
good ol' hydro town gillam. 1200 kms from you. i am sending the heads to competition engine machining in winnipeg. heard anything about them? they come highly recommended.
 

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everything i have heard has been positive
 

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I am with evil eye, if you had to cut the one stud to get it out, chances are it wont go in unless you cut it and that would be a waste of course... keep us posted on how the rebuild goes!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sorry guys. i mean i cut it to get the head off. it is the width of the head of the bolt that hits the firewall, not the length. clear as mud?
but you are right. we will see how the rest of the build goes. all the wiring is insane!
 

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gotcha:thumb:
 

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Why are you replacing the headstuds?? Just because you got the SCT tuner? I was just curious because of the pic of the new tuner.:icon_ford:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yeah that is part of it i guess. lots of guys are running tuners without headstuds and thats fine. i run out of warranty at the end of the month and i, like so many others, pull my camper all summer. i dont want to have to have it on my mind all the time that i could be out somewhere and have the headgaskets go then have to be at the mercy of the dealer or a shop and have to pay them to do it when i am just as capable. not to mention a tow job and all the extra expenses. in the end i am looking at at least 3000 dollars where as i do it myself, have peace of mind knowing they are there, have an excellent excuse to get the programmer that i wanted, not to mention other things i wanted to get, save money by doing it myself, learn a whack load about my truck, and be able to pass on the knowledge to others. i guess thats about it on why.
clarence
 

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Very good reasoning thats for sure. It looks like you have your work cut out for you! It will be a good learning experience to say the least. Good luck with everything I hope it goes just as planned!:)
 

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Ok heres a dumb question, how come on the back head bolt you cant lift it up enough to clear the block threads and hold it to the head as you remove it? Same thing should hold true when reinstalling the studs. You know put it in the head, somehow hold it there while you slide the head in place? I've never done this job but wouldn't that make all this simpler?:dunno:
 
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