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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I have recently encountered a cracked head. I’m at a loss, and I’m not entirely sure what I want to do. I’ve been researching on here and online. So far I’ve come to a few conclusions, should I rework my cracked head? Or should I try out Promaxx?
If you have any suggestions I’m all ears. I’ve reached out to 3 people on here. I’ve not heard anything back yet.
When replacing the heads should I replace the standpipes and dummy plugs? They are less than 3 years old.
I’ve had a thought to add a fuel line to the rear of the heads also while I have it apart again.
I would even build the heads I’m just not exactly sure how to build them.
Here it is I’m asking for suggestions?
Thanks,
Aaron
 

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IMHO you have only 2 options if you're looking to keep your truck. KDD or UCF o-ringed heads. You should do all updates while you're down. If you're needing steady fuel pressure, Marty's Diesel regulated return will serve you well.

k
 
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Discussion Starter #3
IMHO you have only 2 options if you're looking to keep your truck. KDD or UCF o-ringed heads. You should do all updates while you're down. If you're needing steady fuel pressure, Marty's Diesel regulated return will serve you well.



k


I’m wondering what you mean by all the updates?
I have bulletproofed the engine (stock FICM) extreme cold weather package. ARP 250-4202 head studs. So far I’ve got about $13,000 into this hog.
My first thought was to fix and sell but I do love the truck.
If I can get a good run I’d do anything, it’s gonna be cheaper than buying new.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I’m wondering what you mean by all the updates?
I have bulletproofed the engine (stock FICM) extreme cold weather package. ARP 250-4202 head studs. So far I’ve got about $13,000 into this hog.
My first thought was to fix and sell but I do love the truck.
If I can get a good run I’d do anything, it’s gonna be cheaper than buying new.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stand Pipes, dummy plugs, blue spring, push rods, turbo drain, (if they haven't been updated) When I had my second build done, I reused the updated parts.

k
 

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Another vote for KDD heads (UCF is also a good option).

I love that KDD heads are brand new instead of 15 year old reman heads (if they even accept your cores). So no need to pay core charges, pay to ship back heads, worry about core charges, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I did end up buying UCF o-ring heads port and polish upgrade also the black Diamond head gaskets.
I also bought Martys regulated return.
Bpd bypass oil filter, and water pump.
I ordered all new motorcraft radiator hoses, heater core hoses I’m replacing all rubber that came in contact with the coolant. I had seen someone post that the front cover should be replaced but I don’t think it’s necessary there is no rubber on that gasket. It’s a metal gasket.

Does anyone have any experience with an ATS coolant recirculation kit?
Or the ESOF stainless line kit? These 2 items are offered by Thoroughbred Diesel.
My ESOF doesn’t operate without locking in the hubs. I replaced the bearing and seals on the left side already. I’m thinking the lines are rotted.

Also any thoughts on the fan upgrade with the 7.3 clutch? Is it worth the money?
 

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I went with UCF ported and polished as well, only difference is I went with arp 625's. The 7.3 clutch fan was great for my use, and keeps cooling temps closer to 200° all the time towing heavy. I cross the scales at 24,000+ while towing my 5er and haven't had any issues since doing the heads and clutch fan. May want to consider an Odawg Sr3 intake since you will be completely apart it is a nice addition.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I went with UCF ported and polished as well, only difference is I went with arp 625's. The 7.3 clutch fan was great for my use, and keeps cooling temps closer to 200° all the time towing heavy. I cross the scales at 24,000+ while towing my 5er and haven't had any issues since doing the heads and clutch fan. May want to consider an Odawg Sr3 intake since you will be completely apart it is a nice addition.


Nice, I had forgotten to mention I did buy the Odawgs SR2, with the emissions check I still need my EGR in tact. One of these days. Lol


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Discussion Starter #10
I have been looking at all my options for my turbo, I thought at first to rebuild it. The bearings are still good no play that you can see or feel. There is however a considerable amount of rust where the housings meet together. After seeing that I thought it might not be worth the $1000 to put in the used OE turbo, but I don't really know. With my build that I am still doing I was wondering if I should just buy a new turbo, I've been looking at the stage 2 from KC turbos. I have done a lot of reading about the upgrades I have chosen. Im just not sure how everything will work together. So the question I still ask myself are if I upgrade the turbo should I also upgrade the intercooler, Will the transmission still handle this just fine? I thought I should also do a custom tune, I currently run the SCT ITSX.
I haven't totally forgotten about the Transmission I put a secondary transmission filter on it, Im gonna do a flush, I updated the pan to the 6.4 liter pan and filter, and I installed the updated dummy plug. Im currently at 160000 miles.
What are some of the other experienced members thoughts.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I am running Alliant pure power new injectors. Im certain they are the same as stock as I didn't purchase an upgraded set. Thanks for the reply.
 

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What size injectors do you plan on running? That will determine the best turbo size and how long your trans will last
It's been a minute Charlie. Glad to see you around again.
@breathingfiredragon I'd imagine a KC Stage 1 will suit your needs pretty well. A Stage 2 would work, but really needs bigger injectors to work like it should. A 1.5 is an option, but I think it works better with a little bump in injector size too. @peixinho Is the guru though, so listen to him.
 

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It's been a minute Charlie. Glad to see you around again.
@breathingfiredragon I'd imagine a KC Stage 1 will suit your needs pretty well. A Stage 2 would work, but really needs bigger injectors to work like it should. A 1.5 is an option, but I think it works better with a little bump in injector size too. @peixinho Is the guru though, so listen to him.
I get on a few times a week... still learning how to navigate the new site.

For stock injectors... I would get a KC s1 turbo
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Is the whistle the only difference in the performance? It really wouldn’t matter to me. Also is the whistle loud at an idle or creeping along slowly like in first gear in the mountains?
 

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Talk with Charlie again and get the TSD tunes. I got a Stage 2 turbo from him and ran TSD SPD and a tow tune they made for me and they were the best tunes I ran in my truck. I did blow out my intercooler after the turbo swap and just put in one that Charlie recommended. Was basically an OEM replacement but had better tanks I believe.
 
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