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Discussion Starter #1
One head .006 the other .012, valve job did on the one shaved .012 to make sure there is valve to piston clearance. As long as it was done right, should I be ok?

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The valves would need to be sunk into the head and then the stems shortened the correct amount.
And it seems you might also have to do something to the rocker arm seats?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The valves were sunk into heads and stems shortened to make valve to piston clearance right. The "spec" is .013 to .027 of clearance. He made the valves meet that spec. In theory all should be good. He got those numbers from a.r.e (or something like that) spec sheet and also talked to ford, and also some diesel specialty shops he knows to research all this. Gonna hope all turns out well. Let you guys know. I told him I'd never heard of this being done on a regular basis, people just buy new heads. I'll let you know tomorrow as I'll have it back together.

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Discussion Starter #5
Shortening the push rods doesn't make since to me if all that work is done, your then making the valves open less which would affect performance it seems to me. am I wrong in that thinking?

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If the valve job was done correctly to compensate for the heads being shaved, then you will be just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I trust the guy that did it. He came highly recommended and took the extra effort to make sure of what to do. And less than $300 for all the head work and to clean the intake.

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Shortening the push rods doesn't make since to me if all that work is done, your then making the valves open less which would affect performance it seems to me. am I wrong in that thinking?

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If the valves end up higher, then you have to shorten something so you can get the proper lash. It doesn't seem to matter whether you shorten the pushrods or shorten the valve stems. As long as you dont change the cam profile, and the lash is right, the valve will open the same. Now I'm curious what the pushrods look like in this motor that they can shorten them easier than machining the valve stem.

Any pics?
 

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Shortening the push rods doesn't make since to me if all that work is done, your then making the valves open less which would affect performance it seems to me. am I wrong in that thinking?

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Who said anything about shortening pushrods? You countersink the valves and take an equal amount off the valve stems to maintain valve train geometry. That's how it's done.

Those PTV clearances seem awfully close to me but I don't know what the tech spec calls for and these don't rev all that high.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry I read artic fox post wrong. Never mind what I said...:confused:

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Discussion Starter #11
Dang it, I ended up knicking the drivers side gasket some at the back on the part where it looks like coolant dead ends into the block. Took some of the blue off. I hope it'll seal up. If not, guess I'll be doing that side again. Oh well, if not for bad luck..... you know the rest!

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Buy a new gasket. It would be a lot easier to put a new one on now than later.

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Discussion Starter #13
Its already back together. As long as I am able to re use the arp's, I don't care, I'll do it again. It's the drivers side so the heater box won't have to come out, it won't be to bad if I have to.

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^^^ What they said. These are not gassers, you can't just pull the head and put new gasket. Gotta get them checked every time.

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Discussion Starter #16
I figure I'll know immediately if oil is mixing with water. Shouldn't have to have head milled for that, should I? That head got milled .012 already, do if thats the case I'm screwed.

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Good news, got her fired up and no leaks so far (knock on wood). Not seeing any water in oil or vise versa. Hope everything stays sealed up.

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