[SCUM]

I tried to find the thread where I got it but can't right now. Before starting everything I tried finding parts listed and pics and torque sequence. At some point I found and copied the below sequence and had it in my notes to follow. Not sure if 3 steps would have been easier or not but either way that ship has sailed for me.

Tighten the head bolts in the following sequence.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 65 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 95 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 135 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 180 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 210 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft

I've been forum surfing trying to find someone with the same issue as me with the fuel line fitment. Not seeing anything. I was very careful but I'm wondering now if I bent the lines along the way somehow. So now my question is, am I safe bending them back into place.

 

[TooManyToys]

I believe that was my posting. After 95lbft, I marked the nuts and studs to measure the rotation to ensure the studs were elongated the same.

 

[mlgjellybean123]

I tried to find the thread where I got it but can't right now. Before starting everything I tried finding parts listed and pics and torque sequence. At some point I found and copied the below sequence and had it in my notes to follow. Not sure if 3 steps would have been easier or not but either way that ship has sailed for me.

Tighten the head bolts in the following sequence.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 65 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 95 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 135 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 180 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 210 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft

I've been forum surfing trying to find someone with the same issue as me with the fuel line fitment. Not seeing anything. I was very careful but I'm wondering now if I bent the lines along the way somehow. So now my question is, am I safe bending them back into place.

Replace the passenger side or just make it fit. My passenger side got screwed up when I took the intake manifold off too. Maybe try rotating at the banjo bolt.

I don't think you can replace the driver's side without taking the head off, it's ridiculously tight there as you've seen.

 

[TooManyToys]

I installed the driver's side with the head, front cover, and intake installed, but not with the filter's assembly.

Screenshot from video.

 

[SCUM]

I tried getting a fuel line. No one stocks it. So I ordered one but will probably bend and force it for now. I'll swap it out when it ships.

I got both valve covers back on today before it started raining on me. Hopefully I'll have a good window without rain tomorrow to wrap things up. Game plan is to get intake, turbo and filters on. Then wiring. Then BPD reroute for the oil cooler and figure out how/where to install the ipr filter.

Thought I'd share this extra tidbit. While it rained, I decided to fix my ficm plugs. I found these on Mouser for significantly cheaper. The small plug is about $8 and the third larger plug is about $20.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-1456315-6

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-1456315-2

In this pic, the one in the left has already been replaced. You can see the difference in the top left key that will prevent me from using the same plug to replace this.

So here Is my solution. I just took a Dremel and removed that key tab (bottom right in this pic). I test fit to make sure it fit and locked in. Worked perfect

Here, I'm showing how I swapped it out. I had bought some plastic tools to release the pins. Those were an exercise in frustration. Instead, I cracked it open and used a small screwdriver to break the locking tabs. Then I just swapped the pins over one at a time. Fast and easy.

 

[bismic]

Nice post on the FICM plugs. Those are a whole lot cheaper than the Alliant connectors.

 

[Hydro]

Digi-Key and Newark are two other sources for connectors -- your connector were some cheaper there -- I like Mouser, but sometimes their prices are high for the same parts -- have to check all three sources

1456315-6 TE Connectivity AMP Connectors | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. 1456315-6 – 32 Rectangular Connectors - Housings Socket Black 0.157" (4.00mm) from TE Connectivity AMP Connectors. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

https://www.newark.com/te-connectivity/1456315-6/automotive-housing-receptacle/dp/56AC5015

That plastic tool can be a pain for sure, especially when the wire is short -- there are also different sizes (colors) yours may not be right for that wire / connector -- thinking it should have been the blue tool -- when the tool is inserted in the plug hole, the edges of the tool should just touch each other

 

[SCUM]

Mostly put together today. Intake, turbo, BPD bypass (mostly), new radiator, hot side cac. I spent more time than I'd like to admit fighting the stupid oil dipstick tube. I cannot get that oring to pop in. Can someone confirm that it actually is supposed to pop into the hole and not just sit in recessed?

This is the best I can get pulling and pushing on it from below while the wife was pushing and wiggling and twisting from above.

This shows how I'm routing the ipr filter. The bpd kit is nice but I wish there was a little more wiggle room with the oil lines.

 

[Hartwig]

I have installed the IPR filter so, that the filter cup points downwards. When loosening the filter cup, otherwise the coolant in the filter cup runs out I suppose.

 

[SCUM]

Yeah, I debated orientation. I'm hopeful that the filter will become less and less of a thing as my system continues to clean out and will just be there for extra insurance. Heck, I debated leaving my bypass filter in place somehow too. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything, but space is really getting tight after the bypass install.

I'm not super thrilled with how all the bypass hoses (oil and coolant) are TIGHT and rubbing against each other and other things (e.g. the CAC tube and valve cover). So I've been carefully going through and wrapping in heater hose at all the potential wear spots. I wish there was a way to test connections for seal before putting everything back together. Hopefully I won't be immediately pulling it apart for something stupid.

I've been researching heavily on the dipstick tube install. Seems no-one has issues with installation on the 6.0. I can't imagine the oring isn't supposed to be popped down inside the hole. However, I can't find any pics to confirm one way or the other. I'm going to try pulling it all out again tomorrow and see if there's any bends or something preventing it to actually pop in the last little bit. Not sure what else to do. I was under the truck basically doing pullups using the tube with all my weight on it and couldn't get any progress. I am starting to wonder if I put the wrong oring on it so might try putting a new OEM one on when I pull it to inspect.

 

[bismic]

dipstick tube o-ring: 3C3Z-6753-AA

(but you probably had that already)

 

[SCUM]

dipstick tube o-ring: 3C3Z-6753-AA

(but you probably had that already)

Thanks, I do have it. I already have it on hand. I bought an OEM one along with other things I suspected I'd need but then later discovered was included in kits from other stuff (same thing happened with my turbo drain back tube - I think I ended up with 2 sets of those because I didn't realize BPD provided some with the relocation kit). Instead of using the OEM oring I bought, I used one from a kit. I'm hopeful that it's the wrong one (was meant for something else?) so is just slightly too big to fit.

According to the forecast, I'm destined to be wrapping this all up in the rain tomorrow. Wish me luck

 

[bismic]

good luck!

 

[TooManyToys]

I grabbed some screenshots from one of my reassembly videos. I had to force the dipstick in, holding it with pliers. I also filled the recess once it made it to the internal lip with TA-31 to prevent weeping in the future hopefully.

 

[SCUM]

Thanks @TooManyToys! That's extremely helpful. Thanks for the pics. After seeing yours, I really do think the oring I put in was thicker than that and was hanging up on the lip of the hole too much.

 

[TooManyToys]

Unfortunately, I didn't take a still image of it at the time, I was rushing to get the engine assembled. So the best I can do on the size. Grainy and not great focus.

 

[SCUM]

Still gives me a profile view of what to look for when I tear it apart. Thanks again.

 

[SCUM]

Well, it fired up and for the min or so I ran it, I saw no oil leaks or coolant (water right now until I flush the system some) leaks. However, I have a major exhaust leak somewhere. Couldn't quite determine but I think it's the y-pipe to turbo connection which is frustrating because I took a lot of care to make sure it was mated up well. I might be the drivers side exhaust to y-pipe but not sure. I tried feeling around for puffing but couldn't feel anything but it was smoking up through the turbo area so it's a pretty big leak. Taking a lunch break while it rains and will get back at it to see how much I have to tear back down to get to it... ugh.

Prepping for the rain today. Should have set this thing up sooner.

The bad o-ring on the dipstick tube. Notice it's damaged now from me pushing on it so much.

Here's the OEM side-by-side with the 'new' o-ring. The OEM is angular rather than smooth round (not sure if it's visible in the pic). Also slightly smaller diameter. Not sure where this one was supposed to go and why I was convinced it went to the tube.

Able to get it to seat in this time. I also did load up the top of it with some high-temp RTV just for insurance. I'll be pissed at myself later if I ever need to take it out. That's future self's problem. Not mine.

A final shot of the BPD routing. I spent a considerable amount of time protecting every hose from potential rubbing and hotspots with wrapped heater hose. Should be good.

 

[SCUM]

OK. I went to fire it up again, cause I can. The crank time was stupid long (~45s). After I've primed everything and gotten it fired up the first time, shouldn't it be back to normal cranking times after that? Or is it normal to take a long time to build up the oil pressure each start for a while? I'm watching the pressure start at near 0 and work it's way up towards ~500 before it fires. Once it fires it's fine (other than that exhaust leak).

 

[backhoebill]

It takes a few minutes of spirited driving to get all the air out. As far as the smoke, you may have some burning off of external oils for a couple of warm up cycles. I wouldn’t start taking things apart just yet


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