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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally digging in to the backlog of work needed for my truck. KDD heads, BPD oil cooler relo, new radiator, standpipes, dummy plugs, hot side cac boots, CCV relo, wicked wheel. Also, I plan to do solenoids in my tranny, 6.4 trans pan + filter, flush. Also radius arm drop brackets to get my caster in line.

I was part way through getting it torn down before someone recommended I take pics but have been taking some pics and will post them here as I go. There's way better how-to posts to follow but perhaps I'll have a different angle or issue that can help someone. I'm on my work laptop so will get the pics posted later when I get the chance. Right now, I have valve covers off and DS oil rail off. I'm stuck at PS oil rail bolts between oil rail and AC Box (they couldn't have designed in an extra inch?).

That said, I did run into something that caught me by surprise. When pulling the left side valve cover, as I broke loose the bolts, it would release pressure and spittle out white looking liquid. Literally looked like spit. I'd say about half the bolts did this. I can't understand why the valve cover would be pressurized? The inside itself didn't look off. It was clean and no out of place residue. However, the yahoo who did the HG job before did NOT torque down the oil rail at all. Most of them were finger tight and some were wobbly loose.

Anyone run into something like this? Any theories on what's up with the pressure? Part of me wonders if the pressure came from the bold holes/threads themselves and not the valve cover space. Like he torqued it down with water in the holes or something?

Pics to come later, I promise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Point of no return for me. This is as far as I've torn it down in the past. Intake and turbo off. Note, I am replacing with a remote cooler kit from BPD. The IPR full flow manifold with therefore no longer be used. I'll likely be selling that, so let me know if there's interest. Else, off to ebay it'll go.
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It doesn't really matter to me now since the Oil Cooler is being replaced by the BPD plate. However, I'm curious what this is (circled in red).
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I've seen worse looking up pics but I was still surprised to see the crap on the screen.
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Looks like old bits of screen that I pulled out of the bottom of the hole.
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Honestly, the BPD plate was so shiny, I spent a good amount of time trying to clean up the oil filter housing as best as I could so that it didn't look so bad on the plate. It was a lost cause.
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I opted to do the BPD oil cooler plate first before pulling the heads thinking I'd leave it all capped off and keep crud out. In hindsight, probably would have been better to do after but I don't think it'll make much difference.
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It's hard to see. Circled in red is the 'spittle' that came out when I cracked the valve cover studs. The pressure release sounded like opening up a shaken bottle of soda. Like I said, about 1/2 the bolts did this.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tonight I pulled off the y-pipe to exhaust bolts. I'm still unable to get to the passenger side oil rail bolts (between oil rail and condenser). There's simply not enough room. I tried a 1/4" ratcheting wrench with a short t30 bit in it. It'll fit on but by murphy's law, these two bolts are the only ones the last mechanic actually torqued down and I can't get them to break free without stripping because there's not enough room to catch the right angle. I'm open to tips if someone has 'em.

I have the driver side engine mount unbolted (not yet removed). I'm hopeful I can jack up enough to remove the mount completely and then lower down to give clearance for those oil rail bolts. This will be limited by the clearance from the Oil rail to the condenser. Will try this tomorrow.

I did start to remove the head studs on driver side. Broke 1 plastic clip for the rocker before I realized those don't come off without the rest of the assembly... The only 11/16 12-point socket I had was for a 3/8 driver. So I was using a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on my breaker bar. It literally snapped the adapter in half. Good times. So, will try again tomorrow with the right socket. I can tell, these studs are going to be a good time getting off and back on.

Just starting to get to the point where I'm questioning myself and wondering if I'm in too deep. Seems every time I think, OK - smooth sailing from here, I end up spending 4 hours fighting a bolt and scraping knuckles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the encouragement @backhoebill

Made some more progress today. Heads are off!

DS Head ready to come off - or so I thought. Notice the lone stud in the back. Took me some time to figure out why the head wouldn't come off.
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I'll be replacing the pushrods with the 6.4 versions. Took this pic to show the difference. I expected them to be identical style but slightly different lengths. I didn't expect the heads to be different.
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DS Headgaskget. I'm not entirely sure what to look for as far as failure points. I'm assuming where the black sealant is missing would be where it's leaking.
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Everything looked ok except this valve.
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After pulling the DS head, I was able to pull the Engine Mount, then lower the DS.
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After dropping the DS, I had tons of clearance to access the oil rail bolts and studs.
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Showing the clearance I had access the studs.
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Bonus shot of the view out my workshop.
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Got sick of breaking my back and broke out the persuader.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pulling the Head. The plate worked really well. Not sure I would get it again. It pulls them off fine but the angle won't be right for going back on so I think I'll be using chains to go back on anyways.
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PS Head
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PS Block
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PS Gasket.
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Making foam cutouts to fit into the cylinders.
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I think the foam cutouts are working out well. I have the DS fully sealed out (small pieces stuffed in each galley).
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have not been planning to replace the injectors. However, now that I'm this deep into it, I'm starting to question that. I have no idea how old these ones are. To my knowledge, they've not given me any problems.

Any suggestions? Is it stupid to be this deep and not replace them? Is there a check I can do to verify condition?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys. I was careful with the injectors and plugs in place. The heads went from crane to table on 2 blocks of wood on the table so the tips were suspended while I pulled them. I'll admit, if I had taken the time to see how easy it was to pull them, I would have done that first. I assumed they'd be a PITA and would be easier from the bench.

I didn't soak the studs with pb blaster prior to cranking on them. I don't think they're as bad as they look in the pic. The outside ones next to the exhaust were just as hard to brake free as the oil soaked ones inside. The nuts were unthreading fine except the last bit had enough tention from dirt/grime to grab and unthread the stud with it. Once they were out, it was easy to hold the stud and finish unthreading the nuts. I assume I haven't ruined the threads. Other than obvious physical damage, is there something I should look for? These are good for multiple use, right?

Also, I did debate pulling the fender well. However, after pulling the DS engine mount and letting it down (rotating the engine), I had tons of room. It actually was easier to pull the Passenger side than the Drivers Side once I did this. Went way smoother than I thought it would to be honest. Hopefully it goes in as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I initially tried installing that way but the holes wouldn't line up. That or I was catching stupid. I'll check it again. I definitely don't have spacers that came with it but I can work that out.

For the studs, I'll see if I can find some evapo-rust locally to give them a soak and clean up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A few more pics from yesterday's work. Not much to show for it but cleaning the block took me pretty much ALL day.

Used a cheap flattening stone with 3m sandpaper. I checked the flatness with a straight edge.
Azure Rectangle Wood Paint Door


Results after several hours of work. On each side, I did 45 deg TopLeft -> BotRight. Then flipped to TopRight -> BotLeft. Then Left->Right. Then Top -> Bot. All of that using 150grit. Then did it all over again using 180grid. I cleaned with brake cleaner and a wipe down after each run. I'm pretty happy with the end result.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Welp. I was feeling pretty proud of myself. I got the passenger head put together and set into place today. I have just the outside (non-stud) bolts in snug (not torqued) to keep it in place. I torqued in the glowplugs and was just setting the injectors when it dawned on me... I didn't put the 3 back studs in the head before setting it. So, now I get to pull it back out and do it over again.

What do you guys think regarding the gasket? Just those outside bolts snugged to keep in place. Am I OK still using it? My only thought is with the o-ring heads, is there a chance those have already impressed into the gasket? Ugh, stupid. The good news is after doing it once, I have more confidence and will be able to go faster the 2nd time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks guys! I think I'll pick up a new gasket today to have on hand for when I pull the head. If I see any scraping/marking, I'll replace it. If not, I'll re-use and return the new one. Spent the night kicking myself over this one. I stood there and stared at everything for a good 5-10min before proceeding to make sure I wasn't missing anything and it was ready to go. Spilt milk now I guess.

Side note, since we chatted about it before, I decided to keep the injectors but did put on new gaskets, including the copper washer. I also replaced the coolant line that runs along the back firewall to the degas bottle. That had been cut and spliced so figured I'd replace it while I had things out and it was easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Didn't take pics today but got a fair amount done (for me). Pulled the passenger head back out and dropped in a new HG - this time with the studs in place. I failed to mention before, but I did chase and clean all the stud threads. So, with the ultralube, everything went together smoothly. Just finished the torque sequence up to 210. Injectors are in and torqued. I still need to do the lifter bolts. Tomorrow, I plan to recheck the torque then get the oil rail in. Then start building and installing the DS Head. Overall, it's going smooth as I plod along.

By the way, I did soak the studs ends and nuts that were a little discolored from surface rust. The evaporust cleaned them off but also stripped the black paint. I expect that will leave them susceptible to further rust so I plan to put those (or as many as I can) inside where they'll stay oil soaked. There's no pitting or damage with the exception of one where, at the very tip, the threads look pinched slightly and catches the nut. I opted to leave the nut on rather than backing it off completely to avoided damaging the threads on the nut. There's plenty of good thread to still be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Forgot to mention, the HG did have some slight scuff marks. Enough that I decided to replace it, which made my daughters day. She was helping work the lift for me when I did this and she decided the HG would make the perfect picture frame in her room. I can't say I disagree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Didn't get much done yesterday because we had company. However, I did go back and check the torque on the PS studs. Several of them took a bit to get back to 210. I have a digital torque wrench so could see they had dropped to around 190. Mainly the center ones (1st ones in the sequence).

I tried researching retorquing to see what the concensus was but it seems all over the place. Do you guys retorque after letting it sit overnight? When retorquing do you back off 1 at a time by 1/4 turn them pull back into spec? Or just check it again 210 and call it? Any benefit to retorquing after a 2nd or 3rd overnight of sitting?

Also, just to confirm some torque specs. I'm seeing 23 ft lb for the rocker box but found one place that said "late model" is 46 ft lb. Anyone know for sure on the 05 what I should be torquing to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
but this has nothing to do with the fasteners; I just had to get that out.
Haha. Don't hold back.


If yo are at full torque value, then back off and re-torque at the final value. However, if the nut is off even a slight amount, the asperities between the thread and under the nut will be different, and will be subject to some relaxing over time. But the gaskets sealant will be compressed.
OK. So you're saying, if I'm at max (210 in this case), back off to retorque again. However, you lost me after that. How do I know if the nut is off even a slight amount? And won't they be subject to some relaxation regardless if the nut is off slightly or not?

In my head, the center studs were loose/relaxed after sitting because they were first ones in the sequence. Often as I go through a torque sequence and it pulls the metals together, the first previous nuts end up loosened as I go along. I assume this is the metals getting sucked in/straightened relieving the load from the 1st ones. I'm tempted to go try to retorque (or better worded, check that they are all 210 spec) again today to see if they loosened anymore after another night of sitting. My concern is that, in reality, every time you check, you have potential to slightly tighten further so risk over torque?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yeah, I did the 2x for most steps. Not all but certainly the first, one of the middle steps and the final. I broke it up into 5 steps (65, 95, 135, 180, 210). The first step had a ton of variation between the first 65 pull and the 2nd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The problem with the second hit of a previously applied torque is the static friction can be higher than the dynamic friction when the bolt/nut was torqued. Bolt torqued to 200lbft. The elastic tension decreases to what would be achieved at 190lbft. Static friction is higher than 200lbft, so the torque wrench clicks off, yet the fastener is at a lower elastic tension.

The only way to confirm is to mark the nut/head, back off, and retighten in a dynamic mode.
This makes perfect sense to me. Thanks! I did recheck the torque on passenger side. It's solid and holding. I know that's exactly the scenario your explaining with the static tension. However, I feel confident with it given when I retorqued yesterday, the bolts moved into 210 (dynamic). Plus the oil rail and standpipes are all in place and I have no motivation to take them off again...

However, I think I'll do this method for the drivers side, which I expect to start placing soon. I'm about to jack up the engine and get the DS engine mount back in place, then wait for one of my kids to get out of school so I can get some help working the lift while I place it. I still have a ton to do but it's fun to be on the downhill side of the job finally and see it start coming back together. I'm trying to be slow and methodical so I don't misstep again like I did with the PS studs...

FYI, I opted to torque the Rocker Carrier to 23 ft-lb. All but one source said to do that. Plus it seems to be pretty irrelevant compared to the 210 ft-lb of studs that will be holding it in place when it's all said and done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Phew. Got the DS Head in place and torqued down to 210. I swear that side was harder that the PS. I'll retorque tomorrow and move on.
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Here's a pic of where I supported the engine while the mount was out. This was right after I raised it back up and was reinstalling the mount.
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Here's my next hang up. I temporarily placed the fuel bowl back in to make sure the fuel lines were routed right and lining up. They're not. The Drivers side is slightly off. I can probably force that one to work. The passenger side though is WAY off. I don't understand why. I stared at it for quite a while trying to see if I had it installed wrong but I don't see an alternative way. It's several inches off from the mark. Any tips here. Am I missing something? Part of me wonders if the BPD adapter plate positions the housing 8n a slightly different angle. Or maybe assumes a different version of fuel line (e.g. From a different year or something). Sorry the pic is off rotation. Not sure why it's loading that way. You can see the PS line is way off though and can get to that point without beding it.
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Driver side routing view. You can see it's just slightly off. Still requirea bending to get in place.

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I tried to find the thread where I got it but can't right now. Before starting everything I tried finding parts listed and pics and torque sequence. At some point I found and copied the below sequence and had it in my notes to follow. Not sure if 3 steps would have been easier or not but either way that ship has sailed for me.

Tighten the head bolts in the following sequence.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 65 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 95 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 135 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 180 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 1 through 10 to 210 lb-ft.
Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Tighten bolts 11 through 15 to 31 Nm (23 lb-ft

I've been forum surfing trying to find someone with the same issue as me with the fuel line fitment. Not seeing anything. I was very careful but I'm wondering now if I bent the lines along the way somehow. So now my question is, am I safe bending them back into place.
 
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