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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally digging in to the backlog of work needed for my truck. KDD heads, BPD oil cooler relo, new radiator, standpipes, dummy plugs, hot side cac boots, CCV relo, wicked wheel. Also, I plan to do solenoids in my tranny, 6.4 trans pan + filter, flush. Also radius arm drop brackets to get my caster in line.

I was part way through getting it torn down before someone recommended I take pics but have been taking some pics and will post them here as I go. There's way better how-to posts to follow but perhaps I'll have a different angle or issue that can help someone. I'm on my work laptop so will get the pics posted later when I get the chance. Right now, I have valve covers off and DS oil rail off. I'm stuck at PS oil rail bolts between oil rail and AC Box (they couldn't have designed in an extra inch?).

That said, I did run into something that caught me by surprise. When pulling the left side valve cover, as I broke loose the bolts, it would release pressure and spittle out white looking liquid. Literally looked like spit. I'd say about half the bolts did this. I can't understand why the valve cover would be pressurized? The inside itself didn't look off. It was clean and no out of place residue. However, the yahoo who did the HG job before did NOT torque down the oil rail at all. Most of them were finger tight and some were wobbly loose.

Anyone run into something like this? Any theories on what's up with the pressure? Part of me wonders if the pressure came from the bold holes/threads themselves and not the valve cover space. Like he torqued it down with water in the holes or something?

Pics to come later, I promise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Point of no return for me. This is as far as I've torn it down in the past. Intake and turbo off. Note, I am replacing with a remote cooler kit from BPD. The IPR full flow manifold with therefore no longer be used. I'll likely be selling that, so let me know if there's interest. Else, off to ebay it'll go.
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It doesn't really matter to me now since the Oil Cooler is being replaced by the BPD plate. However, I'm curious what this is (circled in red).
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I've seen worse looking up pics but I was still surprised to see the crap on the screen.
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Looks like old bits of screen that I pulled out of the bottom of the hole.
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Honestly, the BPD plate was so shiny, I spent a good amount of time trying to clean up the oil filter housing as best as I could so that it didn't look so bad on the plate. It was a lost cause.
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I opted to do the BPD oil cooler plate first before pulling the heads thinking I'd leave it all capped off and keep crud out. In hindsight, probably would have been better to do after but I don't think it'll make much difference.
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It's hard to see. Circled in red is the 'spittle' that came out when I cracked the valve cover studs. The pressure release sounded like opening up a shaken bottle of soda. Like I said, about 1/2 the bolts did this.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tonight I pulled off the y-pipe to exhaust bolts. I'm still unable to get to the passenger side oil rail bolts (between oil rail and condenser). There's simply not enough room. I tried a 1/4" ratcheting wrench with a short t30 bit in it. It'll fit on but by murphy's law, these two bolts are the only ones the last mechanic actually torqued down and I can't get them to break free without stripping because there's not enough room to catch the right angle. I'm open to tips if someone has 'em.

I have the driver side engine mount unbolted (not yet removed). I'm hopeful I can jack up enough to remove the mount completely and then lower down to give clearance for those oil rail bolts. This will be limited by the clearance from the Oil rail to the condenser. Will try this tomorrow.

I did start to remove the head studs on driver side. Broke 1 plastic clip for the rocker before I realized those don't come off without the rest of the assembly... The only 11/16 12-point socket I had was for a 3/8 driver. So I was using a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on my breaker bar. It literally snapped the adapter in half. Good times. So, will try again tomorrow with the right socket. I can tell, these studs are going to be a good time getting off and back on.

Just starting to get to the point where I'm questioning myself and wondering if I'm in too deep. Seems every time I think, OK - smooth sailing from here, I end up spending 4 hours fighting a bolt and scraping knuckles.
 

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Test port for the base oil pressure
 
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Your doing good. Don’t get discouraged. Likely you just need to take a break, or change gears. Needing a new (correct) tool is the number one issue you may encounter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the encouragement @backhoebill

Made some more progress today. Heads are off!

DS Head ready to come off - or so I thought. Notice the lone stud in the back. Took me some time to figure out why the head wouldn't come off.
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I'll be replacing the pushrods with the 6.4 versions. Took this pic to show the difference. I expected them to be identical style but slightly different lengths. I didn't expect the heads to be different.
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DS Headgaskget. I'm not entirely sure what to look for as far as failure points. I'm assuming where the black sealant is missing would be where it's leaking.
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Everything looked ok except this valve.
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After pulling the DS head, I was able to pull the Engine Mount, then lower the DS.
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After dropping the DS, I had tons of clearance to access the oil rail bolts and studs.
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Showing the clearance I had access the studs.
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Bonus shot of the view out my workshop.
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Got sick of breaking my back and broke out the persuader.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pulling the Head. The plate worked really well. Not sure I would get it again. It pulls them off fine but the angle won't be right for going back on so I think I'll be using chains to go back on anyways.
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PS Head
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PS Block
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PS Gasket.
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Making foam cutouts to fit into the cylinders.
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I think the foam cutouts are working out well. I have the DS fully sealed out (small pieces stuffed in each galley).
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have not been planning to replace the injectors. However, now that I'm this deep into it, I'm starting to question that. I have no idea how old these ones are. To my knowledge, they've not given me any problems.

Any suggestions? Is it stupid to be this deep and not replace them? Is there a check I can do to verify condition?
 

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You really should not handle the heads with the injectors and glow plugs in place , the potential for damage to those parts is high with them in place

Consider the miles and how much fuel has been forced thru the tiny holes on the injector tips -- the fuel wears the holes and degrades the spray pattern over time -- So, harder starting and less fuel mileage
 

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Just my two cents and some observations. Obviously major work has been done on this engine before you. If its higher mileage, I would have pulled it and done everything right and once. I have pulled the 6.0 engine with cab on and cab off. Cab off is great but If you have plenty of time, cab on is not that bad as long as you raise the cab about 6 inches. Since you opted to pull the heads and not the engine, do yourself a favor and remove the fender liners (maybe you did after first pics?). As stated earlier, pull the injectors and glow plugs before unbolting the heads. Hope you didn't destroy the ARP threads. I have never seen ARP's that dirty and rusty. Did you clean them and soak them in PB or something before you cranked on them? Not being critical just most of us here have learned from our mistakes. I have no room to talk about making mistakes on the 6.0,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys. I was careful with the injectors and plugs in place. The heads went from crane to table on 2 blocks of wood on the table so the tips were suspended while I pulled them. I'll admit, if I had taken the time to see how easy it was to pull them, I would have done that first. I assumed they'd be a PITA and would be easier from the bench.

I didn't soak the studs with pb blaster prior to cranking on them. I don't think they're as bad as they look in the pic. The outside ones next to the exhaust were just as hard to brake free as the oil soaked ones inside. The nuts were unthreading fine except the last bit had enough tention from dirt/grime to grab and unthread the stud with it. Once they were out, it was easy to hold the stud and finish unthreading the nuts. I assume I haven't ruined the threads. Other than obvious physical damage, is there something I should look for? These are good for multiple use, right?

Also, I did debate pulling the fender well. However, after pulling the DS engine mount and letting it down (rotating the engine), I had tons of room. It actually was easier to pull the Passenger side than the Drivers Side once I did this. Went way smoother than I thought it would to be honest. Hopefully it goes in as well.
 

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The most critical part of the threads is where the nuts reside. (🤭) Corrosion pitting on the threads will increase the friction, and there won't be as much preload (clamping force) as a higher amount of the stated torque force will go to the increased friction. So inspect the nut and final resting nut threads. With the ARP lube, hopefully, they will be fine.

Any rust on the top of the stud can be removed. While you could use a spinning wire wheel, I'd recommend getting some Evapo-Rust from Amazon or Tractor Supply to soak the rusted area for a few days. Do not use any acid, which inches vinegar. Any acid will cause hydrogen embrittlement in the steel. While that is always a concern for hardened steel like the studs are, I never use acids anyway. It still occurs with milder steel; it's just that softer steels are never stressed as high. Removing hydrogen from the steel also promotes rusting at a higher rate.

After soaking in Evapo-Rust, you can dress the threads with a wire brush. You will still have the pitting, which is not as smooth and increase the torque loss, but it won't be in the critical tensioning area if there is no rust under the nutted area.

The ARP discussion of reusing the studs is true, except parts never get rusty in their context of racing. In our applications like this, that's not true.

The issue you have with the bracket is that it's installed in reverse. You should have spacers that make the bracket sit higher off the manifold bolting area, so the lifting ring is more towards the center. One can also use a perforated steel angle ($8 Home Depot) or an Adele Clamp, as I have done repeatedly.

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(After poof reading that first sentence, I had to add the emoji. In today's world, we need a laugh.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I initially tried installing that way but the holes wouldn't line up. That or I was catching stupid. I'll check it again. I definitely don't have spacers that came with it but I can work that out.

For the studs, I'll see if I can find some evapo-rust locally to give them a soak and clean up.
 

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You just need to soak the tips.

The bracket looks like it has the correct holes just missing the spacers. You could also use drilled out nuts as spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A few more pics from yesterday's work. Not much to show for it but cleaning the block took me pretty much ALL day.

Used a cheap flattening stone with 3m sandpaper. I checked the flatness with a straight edge.
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Results after several hours of work. On each side, I did 45 deg TopLeft -> BotRight. Then flipped to TopRight -> BotLeft. Then Left->Right. Then Top -> Bot. All of that using 150grit. Then did it all over again using 180grid. I cleaned with brake cleaner and a wipe down after each run. I'm pretty happy with the end result.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Welp. I was feeling pretty proud of myself. I got the passenger head put together and set into place today. I have just the outside (non-stud) bolts in snug (not torqued) to keep it in place. I torqued in the glowplugs and was just setting the injectors when it dawned on me... I didn't put the 3 back studs in the head before setting it. So, now I get to pull it back out and do it over again.

What do you guys think regarding the gasket? Just those outside bolts snugged to keep in place. Am I OK still using it? My only thought is with the o-ring heads, is there a chance those have already impressed into the gasket? Ugh, stupid. The good news is after doing it once, I have more confidence and will be able to go faster the 2nd time.
 

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Welp. I was feeling pretty proud of myself. I got the passenger head put together and set into place today. I have just the outside (non-stud) bolts in snug (not torqued) to keep it in place. I torqued in the glowplugs and was just setting the injectors when it dawned on me... I didn't put the 3 back studs in the head before setting it. So, now I get to pull it back out and do it over again.

What do you guys think regarding the gasket? Just those outside bolts snugged to keep in place. Am I OK still using it? My only thought is with the o-ring heads, is there a chance those have already impressed into the gasket? Ugh, stupid. The good news is after doing it once, I have more confidence and will be able to go faster the 2nd time.
You would probably be fine, but I wouldn't chance it.
 
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Gasket should be fine -- the main thing to look for is "skinned" places if you slid the head around getting it into place -- that little bit of compression from those two bolts did nothing to the gasket at all
 

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When I talked to a Fel-Pro engineer about gaskets, we discussed the what-if of tightening down a gasket, disassembling, then reusing the gasket. He said as long as the engine wasn’t started it would not be an issue, the sealer needs heat to set.

Hydro’s comment of sealant scraping is important.
 
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