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Well, I pressure tested the coolant system today. T-ed in a mechanical gauge at the coolant return to the degas bottle (Powerstrokehelp.com style) and drove the heck out of it.

Topped out at 8 PSI. When I removed the degas cap to release the pressure the gauge bottomed out at 2 PSI. So I guess PSI is either 6 or 8 max. Either way there was no rapid climb or spike in pressure. Head gaskets are still OK? Good news as far as I can tell.

Oil cooler is on the way out and temp delta was hovering right around 15 while I tested the coolant system pressure. Ran some hills, but no trailer.

UPS just dropped off new oil cooler rebuild kit, intake gaskets, turbo mounting kit, updated oil drain tube, and two green o-rings that for some reason I thought I needed but can't remember where they go.

I'm going to have my mechanic replace the t-30 torx screw on the back of the oil cooler outlet with a hex head that stands proud of of the housing, with anti sieze, so I will be able to remove it for a back flush in the future if necessary. I spend countless hours last week in vain to remove that s.o.b. for a backflush that never got done.

EGR is already deleted and I think I'm gonna gamble on the head gaskets again. Straight up oil cooler swap, labor about $500 and parts were just under $300. Could have been worse.

The wife was near saying that if the head gaskets were out, the truck had to go, or she was. I think divorce might be cheaper than keeping a 6.0 running. For now I'm stuck with this turd (the truck, not the wife). Hope this oil cooler is the last one (it will be number four in 119,000 miles).
 
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:hehe: thats true...

Well his theory isnt fully correct. see you need to pressurize the system to 16psi before you go romp on it. Otherwise your guna read pretty much water pump pressure. When you pressurize it to 16-your getting to find out right then and there if the cap is junk, then when you go out and romp it, and the pressure rises from 16 to say anywheres in the 20psi range-you verified bad head gaskets.
 

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Use the flush document linked in my signature line previous to this, and flush the ever-living-crap out of it. It will take you a whole day.
Then fill with CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant.
Add coolant filter.
Rip it apart and do the oil cooler after this.
 
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Use the flush document linked in my signature line previous to this, and flush the ever-living-crap out of it. It will take you a whole day.
Then fill with CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant.
Add coolant filter.
Rip it apart and do the oil cooler after this.
No Cat coolant is killing the rubber components in 6.0s and 6.4s, i didnt believe it at first from what alot of techs were asking on FMCDealers diesel tech to tech forum, til i had 2 literally spewing coolant from just about every orifice.

The rubber donut under the intake manifold looks like a mouse chewed it, water pump gasket shot, front cover leaks, and the blue hose for the egr cooler almost becomes porous.
 

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You are the first to ever mention this. With all the trucks on this forum running this coolant (mine included). I have the Fleetrite straight from International....which, by the way, is just repackaged Rotella ELC.
 
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Oh, and I will be draining the system, and taking a close look at the waterpump seal real soon. I am BETA testing the new Bulletproof diesel waterpump impeller.
Im not sure whether the customers just topped it off, or just put it in after they drained their radiator. Just like green coolant. Supposedly theres guys that are running green with no issue-probably because they ran distilled water in it until all the coolant was thinned out to pure distilled water, pressurized and drained then probably filled with green...

Or they replaced all the hoses etc.

I found it odd that the intake donut was deteriorated. I know when you pull the intake youll get a squished appearance but this one looked swelled and the inside was chewed up almost like a mouse got in there... you have no idea how frustrating it was to pin point 1 leak at a time until every leak was repaired.

Let me know how you made out and let me know about the bpd water pump! im very interested in it. Im not one for OEM stock trucks, if i had it my way, every head gasket job i ever did would have been studded, new oil cooler and egr delete. but thats if i had it my way

Dont get me wrong, i would own one if i had the money to put in one plus fuel... And after driving mikes-MDUB07 (his truck is at my shop my svc mgr had a bug up his @ss for the pyrometers and the stacks had i known he'd pull that crap i would have had him return it to stock) id def have one straight piped and stacked. and id build it to the hilt to see how much these stock bottom ends handle and what works what doesnt. but im fond of my chevrolets and i know what fs up with them fords and dodges. chevys have less important (to me) failures than the other 2.
 

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Well, the kicker in this whole coolant thing (and I don't think I stated my point very well) is that International uses Fleetrite in this engine from the factory. Fleetrite IS a CAT EC-1 rated ELC.
Once I take it apart I will let you know what I find.
The Fleetrite coolant has only been in there since late February.
I bought this truck last September used (off Fleabay..). I flew out to Missouri and drove it home, not having a single clue about anything to do with a 6.0, I heard they had problems, but I just love the way these trucks look. Dumb way of getting involved, and I was lucky that nothing serious was wrong with the truck when I drove it all that way.
 
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I bought this truck last September used (off Fleabay..). I flew out to Missouri and drove it home, not having a single clue about anything to do with a 6.0, I heard they had problems, but I just love the way these trucks look.
Sounds like 6.4 customers. They seem to love that body style but quickly hate whats under the hood. ive had customers beg me to take their traded 6.0 in the shop pull the motor tranny and transfer case and put it in place of the 6.4 :rofl:

6.0s grow on me more and more every day. they are the easiest diesel in fords history to wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Use the flush document linked in my signature line previous to this, and flush the ever-living-crap out of it. It will take you a whole day.
Then fill with CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant.
Add coolant filter.
Rip it apart and do the oil cooler after this.
I did last week, took me 22 hours with the time I battled near to death with that t-30 screw on the back of the oil cooler outlet. I should have almost been able to do a head gasket/stud job in that amount of time.

Already have a coolant filter.

Already have EC-1 coolant.

No EGR cooler. Delete installed.

No coolant leaks. No missing coolant. No smoke/steam at exhaust. No loss of power.

Ripping it apart next week for new oil cooler as delta is nearing out of spec.

How do I pressurize the system prior to pressure test?
 
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okay you need a brass T 3/8ths nipples 4-5 feet of 3/8ths rubber hose, pressure gauge, and a big rigs valve stem. Put 3 nipples in the T drill your hole in the middle of the T braze the valve stem in, put the T inline with the hose coming off the degas bottle going to the radiator, run the 5 feet of hose to the gauge put a nipple on the gauge too. Clamp everything, put air to it make sure the gauge reads 16 psi and the cap will make an owl hoot if it goes over 16psi. If it goes up fast hoots and drops below 16 replace it.

MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM IS FULL! thats the only way to get an accurate reading. Now say the cap is bad you replace it, hoots then holds at 16, you go down the road like you just stole the truck, find a long straight away, up hill preferably, and hold it to the floor. If it builds up over 16psi (beings youve egr delete) its head gaskets. If its up over 20psi definite bad head gasket! how? bad gasket leaks boost pressure-and viola high coolant pressure.
 
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