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Hard starting

932 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  NoRalPh
Can someone give me a clue here: This is where my 99 7.3 is at. I had a lot of issues with it, fixed what I felt was wrong with it which now when it starts it seems to run fine. Things I have done so far in the past week:
Changed all and upgraded injectors from Diesel Force.
Changed wiring harness in valve covers
Installed tuner
Installed new glow plugs
At that point the truck ran like a dream and than after a week I could only start it on starting fluid.
Checked the internet (You Tube) and the way the truck was sounding to someone's else truck I went and changed out the icp sensors.
I found two wires that might have been touching so I taped those bare wires also.
Now the truck starts and runs fine when it starts but it seems to only start if I roll it over and stop and crank it over again as fast (Within a 1/2 second) as possible till it starts.
If I keep cranking it on the first try it won't start either
If I give it a few seconds between cranks it wont start either
Does this mean I have some sort of pressure leak either fuel or oil that won't let the injectors fire till pressure is built up by re-cranking the engine within a split second of the previous cranking session.
I also installed new glow plugs. The check engine light came on but now is off. I don"t if those two wires that I taped were throwing the check engine light since I am not sure they were touching in the first place.
Any clues what I could be looking for? I have a appointment to take it to a diesel mechanic tomorrow morning, but now I don't know if it makes any sense if the engine light is no longer on. I don't want to be paying if it going to be just a guessing game with no engine light on.
Thanks in advance
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is the starter turning Fast Enough?

poor battery cable connections,or just a "tired starter motor" ?
Batteries at Full Charge?

a Denso Starter is you need one
I stole all of this info from the "internet" most of it from this forum.

If you want a good starter, get a PowerMaster 9051 or a GENUINE Denso TG228000-8420 from a reputable company like CNC fabrication.


I had the Powermaster on mine and it was working perfectly until the solenoid wire came loose inside. Powermaster offered to repair it free of charge. I bought the Denso to keep me going until the Powermaster. They are both excellent starters.

How to install it


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There's just So Many things that you could be seeing this from, you shouldn't have to take it anywhere just yet though. Do you have the tools to be able to monitor sensors? I would start with the HiPres Oil sensors first (ICP & IPR) to see what they report as you're cranking. This is really the basics of diagnosing those kind of problems.

When starting there are 4 important things we want to watch;

ICP pressure (in psi plz)
IPR% (shows how Hard the system is working to make that pressure)
Cranking RPM (100+ required, av is @150)
Cranking Voltage (in a '99 can't drop below 10v while cranking on the starter)

This will all give a lot of good insight into what's going on as you try to start.

Coupla things though, STOP USING EITHER RIGHT NOW before you do serious damage to your engine (GP's and Either don't mix ;) ). You say you replaced the ICP sensor, where did that sensor come from? If it's an aftermarket, this could be the cause of it all.

When did this all start? You've done a lot of stuff, had tremendous opportunity to make poor choices (injectors/tuning, sensors, connectors, GPs, etc.), where along the way did it go wrong or first Stop going wrong? If you tried to do this on-the-cheap (buying everything on the net for the best price) you might have created much of it yourself. GENIUNE FORD Sensors & Plugs (and they are both Heavily Counterfeited) have become an absolute necessity...

My Usual Scanner Advice;

If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.

To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android ->

Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.

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