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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know this has been discussed a number of times. I spent a good hour reading many posts here and I learned alot. I now have questions on how I currently have my GPR set up.

I have a 2000 excursion. It does not have the Glow plug control module ( which is weird to me because my Brother in law also has a 2000 excursion and his does have the GPCM)

My excursion does have the shunt. Over the course of the last 4 years owning the truck I have replaced the GPR at least twice. I am aware of the $70 napa GPR and the cheaper $30 napa part that is the same but the mounting holes are wrong.

I'm pretty certain that the current GPR is the $30 dollar one because when I installed it I did not install the shunt correctly. I basically put all the blue wires on the "rear" main post. ( I am going to try and post a pic).

The proper GPR is not that important to me as I am going to install the Stancor part many have recommended.

Here are my questions. Is it possible that the shunt not being properly hooked up cause the GPR to not work properly in turning on the GPs? And with the shunt not hook up properly why have I not thown any CEL codes? The reading I have done on here suggest that the purpose of the shunt is to send a dash cel code to let you know that either the left or right GP are having issues? I have no CEL light or codes that I am aware of.

I have GP to replace, and I am going to do all the checking that klhansen recommends, but with some suggesting it is difficult to get the shunt to work with the new stancor unit, if my "hack job" wiring is working in keeping the CEL off and the GPR other wise still works, I'm wondering if I just "bypass" the shunt altogether as it is currently.


http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...18219062882.2003254.1447295104&type=1&theater

I am not smart enough to embed photo but the link above should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I know this has been discussed a number of times. I spent a good hour reading many posts here and I learned alot. I now have questions on how I currently have my GPR set up.

I have a 2000 excursion. It does not have the Glow plug control module ( which is weird to me because my Brother in law also has a 2000 excursion and his does have the GPCM)

My excursion does have the shunt. Over the course of the last 4 years owning the truck I have replaced the GPR at least twice. I am aware of the $70 napa GPR and the cheaper $30 napa part that is the same but the mounting holes are wrong.

I'm pretty certain that the current GPR is the $30 dollar one because when I installed it I did not install the shunt correctly. I basically put all the blue wires on the "rear" main post. ( I am going to try and post a pic).

The proper GPR is not that important to me as I am going to install the Stancor part many have recommended.

Here are my questions. Is it possible that the shunt not being properly hooked up cause the GPR to not work properly in turning on the GPs? And with the shunt not hook up properly why have I not thown any CEL codes? The reading I have done on here suggest that the purpose of the shunt is to send a dash cel code to let you know that either the left or right GP are having issues? I have no CEL light or codes that I am aware of.

I have GP to replace, and I am going to do all the checking that klhansen recommends, but with some suggesting it is difficult to get the shunt to work with the new stancor unit, if my "hack job" wiring is working in keeping the CEL off and the GPR other wise still works, I'm wondering if I just "bypass" the shunt altogether as it is currently.


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I am not smart enough to embed photo but the link above should work.
bump so one of you smart guys may comment. T

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Question. I replaced the GPR with the stancor unit. Tested as has been suggested and it is working. Moved on to testing the GP. I popped the clips on each head gasket and tested the outside 2 prongs on each junction. The out side 2 on the drivers side showed no reading whatsoever, and the inside 2 showed 2 or just under.

On the passenger side all but 1 gave no reading at all and 1 in the 2 area.

No reading would be the same as an open circuit. The directions I was following said an infinite reading was bad, and anything over 2 ohms was bad. What does no reading mean?

I was expecting to get varying results and I actually got no results or 2.

Lastly, I was using a "cheap" ohm reader, where the lowest setting was 200. What would a more sensitive meter tell me?
 

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i dont know that much about meters. but i would start to wonder if some of the glows came unlugged under the VC? might try a better meter first? if you have to replace one glow, then at least do the entire side. buy a set of 8 from ebay, Motorcraft ZD-11 or Beru plugs only, never autolite or otherwise.
 
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