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Discussion Starter #1
Meet the shipper in Terrell, Tx and picked her up. She was everything I thought she would be. Its really amazing to see how much trucks built these days are so "car like" and how my 2000 Ford is a "truck".

Anyway, got a little oil leak around the pan. I will inspect more closely in the morning. Hoping its the oil pan gasket instead of rear main seal.

The only other thing is when starting in 1st I hear a small "rattle" from just under the shifter. Don't hear it when starting off in L.

Any other things I should pay close attention to?

:icon_ford:
 

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how about some pics!!
 

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2000 so its a 7.3? Sorry mobile doesn't show sigs and your profile didn't state.

Where in Texas are ya? Houston area here!

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Here are pics as requested. One where she was on the truck and the next she is at home.

I live just south of Fort Worth. I am really happy; the truck is in great shape even with 109K on the odometer.
 

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Anyway, got a little oil leak around the pan. I will inspect more closely in the morning. Hoping its the oil pan gasket instead of rear main seal.
Don't jump to conclusions ;) neither of those are as likely as a bunch of other stuff...

Here's an interesting video, BUT I have to warn you about this guy,,,, he makes Great Videos, that Does NOT make him infallible though. He's got some really GOOFY theories (not about this though) So, don't take him as your Guru, as many do :( Confirm his advice on anything else he says :wink[3]:

POWERSTROKEHELP.COM - The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners
 

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His video on the leaking hpop is pretty good. It narrowed down my leak which I thought to be a rear main. Turns out I was wrong...now if the 5 inches of rain we're getting would stop....I finally have time to poke around!

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I was driving it around all weekend getting familiar with her and this morning on the way to work the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. However, since my oil pressure was up and my temps were good I just came on in. I have a diesel service place near me that I am going to go by and have them put the reader on it to see whats going on.

Also have some vibration at highway speeds. When that happened to me in my Duramax it was due to a front hub going out.

Also, thanks for the link to that video. From what I can tell that leak may indeed be coming from that intake valley and running down the back of the engine. However it appears to be a very slow leak. Still gonna clean everything up with some brake cleaner and watch it.
 

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If your truck is 4WD, that front hub noise & vibration you hear may actually be just the needle bearings and is an inexpensive fix. The test for that is to Lock the front hubs IN (you don't need to be in 4WD) and see if the noise stops. Then, unlock one side or the other to tell which one has the problem (the needles don't turn when the hub is locked so you eliminate the noise)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, it is 4WD. It only does it at highway speeds. Is it ok to run with hubs locked at 65mph?
 

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I think it is, yes..

But, if you never hear that noise under 65 then it doesn't sound like the needles to me (they will do it lower than that and often sound like you're driving over the "rumble strips")

Our hubs are roller bearing not taper so, they can be tricky to diagnose. If you get to the point where they actually have slop in them (take the wheel off, spread the pads open, wiggle) they're Really Bad! As they go they first get noisy and you'll feel a slight roughness as you turn them slowly by hand.

Here's a link on replacing the needles, it shows what's involved in replacing the hubs too -> Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page

Could also be Many other things too of course ;)
 

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Don't jump to conclusions ;) neither of those are as likely as a bunch of other stuff...

Here's an interesting video, BUT I have to warn you about this guy,,,, he makes Great Videos, that Does NOT make him infallible though. He's got some really GOOFY theories (not about this though) So, don't take him as your Guru, as many do :( Confirm his advice on anything else he says :wink[3]:

POWERSTROKEHELP.COM - The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners
its pretty common for people to spill oil adding oil or changing the filters and the oil spilled runs down the back of the engine looking like oil pan gasket or rear main seal leaking. its common to be nothing but oil and no problem lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
"Well, I was driving it around all weekend getting familiar with her and this morning on the way to work the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. However, since my oil pressure was up and my temps were good I just came on in. I have a diesel service place near me that I am going to go by and have them put the reader on it to see whats going on.

Also have some vibration at highway speeds. When that happened to me in my Duramax it was due to a front hub going out. "


Well, after running some B15 and Diesel Kleen in the truck she is running great and the SES light has turned off.

As for my vibration I have located the culprit. It is the hubs; primarily the drivers side. It is coming apart. However, even though my wife does not understand, these types of things often come with a truck with over 100K on the odometer.

I have decided to bite the bullet and order the Dynatrac free spin hub kit. Having to wait till the end of the month though...$$$$! I am also going to get their ball joints and do those while I am in there as well.

Thank you to everyone who offered advice/thoughts.
 

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You can buy ALOT of stock unit berrings for what the free-spin kit cost... not saying to not get it, just trying to help put things in perspective. The stock unit berring is easy to change, I can do one in less than an hour now, nothing to adjust, and it's 'stock', parts are easy to find.

Unless you're going to run big tires, 35" and up will take their toll on the unit berrings...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The truck came with 33" tires on it and I do eventually plan to run 35" tires once I get to rebuilding/upgrading the suspension.

I know it is expensive but I figured if I do this I wont have to worry about replacing them for a long time. Just maintain them and they should last a long time.

Trust me, I have considered replacing with stock units.

I also figured I would do the ball joints while I am in there that deep. My luck is one would go out a month after I do the hubs.

Thanks,
Rascal
 
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