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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,

So I changed out the #2 injector and the FICM which caused all this havoc to begin with.

I bled the system and got her running and let her high idle for a little while. Took her out on a test run went 10 miles and bam it shut off. I restarted the truck and drove it home.

The truck now won't start and I am wondering about my values

ICP is 600+
IPR hits 23.9 during cranking
My fuel pump is putting out 62 psi

I called Ed at FICM to get his opinions. He asked if I had my DC alternator bench tested and since it had been working fine I did not. He mentioned he sees the voltage regulator take out FICM logic boards every week.....well at this point I am not sure if it happened again. I pulled the following codes:

P0611 FICM Fuel injector control module performance Internal FICM failure
P1378 INJ Module FICM supply voltage circuit low Faulty connection, fuse, faulty relay, short to ground, charging system
U0105 PCED Lost communication with FICM Communication failure
P2552 FICM circuit — throttle/fuel inhibit circuit RPM out of range for closed pedal position

I am kinda bummed right now and not sure what is going on but somehow I wonder if the FICM logic board went again?

The truck will not start at all now.


At this point I am like WTF!

Joe
 

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A buzz test will tell you if the logic board went out i believe. Also check the FICM wiring, a chafed wire will kill the logic board.
 

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Yes, the first thing to check is the wiring and the connections. You might be surprised. I thought for sure I had my FICM connections good and secure, but I didn't.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
So now the POS starts and runs normal but I did not take it for a test drive. I am not sure of my IPR values maybe someone can confirm they are good. I am sure the ICP and FMP are good

At idle:
ICP- 636
IPR- 22.1
47.5 FMP

At 2000 rpm:
ICP- 939
IPR- 27.1
FMP- 47.5 - 48.0

The buzz test is even prior to start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I need to clear my head because I was ready to burn the truck to the ground earlier.:laugh2:

I am going to check everything. I went from a miss to now it's dying on the road SMH



Yes, the first thing to check is the wiring and the connections. You might be surprised. I thought for sure I had my FICM connections good and secure, but I didn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You are correct Jack! I have my hair but I surely have a skunk line down the center LOL

I love my truck but in all honesty there isn't a day that I don't think "what is going to happen next?" and to be honest it wears me out.

It is funny because I was a wrench by trade for 15 years and moved onto better things and my dad is retired (75) and was a wrench for 50 years. He has such a cool outlook on stuff whereas I go from 0-60 when stuff goes wrong :wink:

The problem with this engine is the HEUI.....and the obvious head bolts.....dogsh*t system in my opinion. When it works it is great any one of 10 things go wrong it is broke.
 

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You are correct Jack! I have my hair but I surely have a skunk line down the center LOL

I love my truck but in all honesty there isn't a day that I don't think "what is going to happen next?" and to be honest it wears me out.

It is funny because I was a wrench by trade for 15 years and moved onto better things and my dad is retired (75) and was a wrench for 50 years. He has such a cool outlook on stuff whereas I go from 0-60 when stuff goes wrong :wink:

The problem with this engine is the HEUI.....and the obvious head bolts.....dogsh*t system in my opinion. When it works it is great any one of 10 things go wrong it is broke.
I know what you mean man!. I have a 116K on my long block build now. No problems to this point but I keep wondering if there are pieces and parts I should be replacing as PM. I don't know!! Loving my truck but holding my breath for the next ride on a rollback! LOL!!


k
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am still curious about my IPR values, they seem low.

I removed the valve and the screen was intact and the valve was not stuck.

I am not sure if I cracked the connector housing while removing it or it was cracked when I was wrestling the up pipe into place a few months ago since it is in that general area.

Either way I am committed to change it out new and see what happens with my values and stalling issue.

I will keep updating as I find stuff.


The part that is bugging me is all the FICM codes I pulled after the few stalls I had.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well this just keep getting better and better....:hehe:

I have an ODAWG II manifold and it is definitely bigger than stock. Well I managed to remove the old IPR and as I mentioned the connector was cracked and I didn't know what happened.

I now know, this manifold is so much bigger than stock that the casting does not allow the valve to rotate past it on its last thread rotation and the connector hits. I had to grind the step off the socket to clear the manifold and figured awesome, it worked.

Now I need to take off the intake manifold to install my new IPR or risk cracking that one. With the lower values I was getting I took a chance removing it to check the screen and see if it was stuck, and of course broke the connector.

Time to recoup and clear my head, this is getting worse by the day :|
 

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The IPR connector should rotate independently of the valve.

Hopefully the IPR is your issue. A short in it or the wiring is one of the two main causes of intermittent dying. The other is the FICM wiring.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Not sure what you mean by that Mark?

The valve body and the protective shield are all one....nothing rotates independently from that I see. That would be awesome if it did but maybe I am dumb and not sure what you mean.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mark,

I think you just saved me a whole lot of aggravation and work. I NEVER thought the valve spun free of the hex, I just thought they were manufactured to screw in and self align.

The question at this point is HOW many times can it be rotated or does it matter?

I need atlleast 1 or 1 1/2 rotations so I can clear the 1/4" of the intake protruding into the space I need.

I am hoping the solenoid and valve are separate (no internal leads attached).

Seriously, this is why I feel stupid at times and this site fixes me right up. :grin:
 
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It doesn't matter how much it rotates

Glad to help - it looked like you were getting frustrated.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
You guessed correct my friend!

I normally don't hit walls, but with this set of problems I have hit it twice and had to walk away yesterday.

So glad you chimed in brother.....thank you again....I OWE YOU ONE!

I will report what I find after I assemble it tomorrow....taking the family out for the day.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update:

The IPR valve is changed and the values are better than the original 15 yo valve but the truck still stalls. The truck stalled 5 times in a 2 mile stretch but ran great up until then.

The truck will stall once I have driven 10 miles or so with intermittent hard runs just incase the oil system still had air in it.

I have been monitoring IPR, ICP, FMP, FICM SYNC, and all the other relevant stuff.

When the truck shuts off I lose FICM SYNC which goes to "0" from the "1" when it is running correctly.

The truck will start right back up which is what is making me insane.


I had the FICM redone complete by ED and went for the ULTRA build and the eco tune. I never had a stall issue just a miss in #2 and WDI rebuilt the shorted coil. The FICM went to Ed as a precaution and he found the FICM just was not right....so that is why I went with a complete overhaul.


At this point I called Ed to ask his opinion and he advised me to send the FICM back to him so he can go through it, and no matter what he finds, he is sending me a completely different unit just to completely rule that out.


I am at my wits end with this issue and not sure which way to go next.


The truck has 104k original miles. All the updated stuff was done (same HPOP pump) to it when I yanked the motor out and as a precaution I changed out the crank and cam position sensors. It really sounds like a HPO system issue but it starts right back up when hot and it only dies when hot or after having been driven for a bit....which makes me think it is not HP oil system related but anything is possible.


For some reason I think there is something wrong with the FICM that got overlooked because at this point I have gone through everything possible.

Looking for opinions or thoughts

Thank you
Joe
 

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I don't think it's common to have issues with the cam or crank sensor but I would be looking at them pretty close after all that you have done. Following to see what the outcome is.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I agree.

After this there is only a few things left (in order of importance).

Alternator to DC power for a rebuild/refresh just in case but it's always been solid x 4 yrs
R&R FICM relay but it is 1 year old
Cam sensor ck/replace (2 yrs old)
Crank Sensor ck/replace (2 yrs old)
Wiring for both (rewrapped and inspected entire harness when engine was out
PCM

I am eager to hear what Ed finds. This is getting a bit tiresome and making me crazy.

Are there any fuses in the truck or other circuit interrupters that I should be looking at?


Thanks
Joe

The DTC's I pulled most recently are:

P0611 FICM Fuel injector control module performance Internal FICM failure
P1378 INJ Module FICM supply voltage circuit low Faulty connection, fuse, faulty relay, short to ground, charging system
U0105 PCED Lost communication with FICM Communication failure
P2552 FICMM FICMM circuit — throttle/fuel inhibit circuit RPM out of range for closed pedal position
 

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Ed will take care of you! Like you I am anxious to see what he has to say.

Assuming Ed confirms the FICM is ok (personally I hope he finds a problem with it!), here are the code descriptions that might point to the next place:

P2552 - FICM M Circuit - Throttle/Fuel Inhibit Circuit: Power Monitor Activated. No signal from the FICM Monitor circuit. FICM or PCM open/short. Could be from a FICM plug (usually middle plug) not firmly seated.

P1378 - Low FICM logic power. System detects less than 7 volts. Could be low batteries, loose connections (or excessive circuit resistance), bad relay, or even a bad FICM: FICM detects logic power low, less than 7 volts. Low batteries, loose connections/ resistance in circuit, defective relay.

P0611 - FICM memory fault. Loss of FICM Power or internal FICM failure: FICM memory fault will set if a RAM or ROM fault exists. Loss of FICM Power. Other internal FICM failure.
 
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