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Ok, I have no clue about racing a 2wd superduty.. but I want to gather some info. I would like to focus on suspension at the moment, we can take this in other areas if needed.

If you post "HUR! Buy a 4wd!", I will have your posts deleted.

Tires:

I found an old thread that mentioned these tires: MandHTires.com

Anyone use a different size?

The tires above state that I need a 16x10 rim. I believe mine are 16x8 and I've only found 16x8 and 16x8.5 rims. Is anyone running a 16x10?

Traction bars:

On the street, I can break loose with no issues and send the truck sideways without building boost. This only happens if the street is fairly smooth. On a grooved concrete road, I still break loose off idle.. but the rear end hops in a rather violent manner. I assume this will happen at the track also. The fix? Hopefully traction bars. Does anyone make traction bars for the 2wd? Everything that I've found is for 4wd or 4wd with 4in+ lift.

I also have the camper package, so the rear leafs are very solid. This does not allow for any type of squatting when launching.

Shocks:

I'm running Bilstein HD's. They are GREAT for towing and hauling, but no so great for launching. Other options?

Air bags:

Anyone using air bags? I've heard that you can play with different pressures on each side to help stop or minimize wheel hop. True? False?

Adding weight:

As if the truck wasn't heavy enough, who is adding weight over the rear axle?



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Competition engineering makes a ladder bar that if i understand correctly has a floating mount to allow the axle to follow its normal travel with the leaves while stopping axle wrap, how it can do both i dont know. i've been reading chassis building books for my 94 flareside and have decided on four link with airbags. if i do it correctly i will be able to change air pressure for road race or drag race. As far as not squatting, if youve ever seen a 98-02 ss camaro launch, the whole car actually lifts up. So called anti-squat properties can actually put more force on the tires.
 

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I run a Nitto drag radial and in 2wd thay make a huge difference. M&H has a big drag radial that uses a 17 x 12 wheel that I heard hooks very well also. If you want a bad a$$ traction bar get in touch with Caltrac's and have them make you some(about $400) They work awsome on the street and at the track. You better get a Detroit locker or a true-trac to make it all work together.
Here is a link to Caltrac Calvert Racing, home of CalTracs, "The Bar With The Bite"

Here is a few pics of mine
 

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when you get this all figured out let me in on it ... I have loads of power and cant get it to the ground... my truetrac helps a lot ... I mean really really a lot...

but I have wheel hop issue too.. that's the biggest issue as of right now.. I want to try it with a pair of slicks but need to fix the wheel hop first...


How strong are these drive shafts and hanger bearings.. If I hook up will this stuff hold with the torque??? I had a 3" dia chrome molly shaft built for my 79 after making a pretzel with my stocker
 

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interesting thread. im anxious to learn. those 2 sites already helped me. been lookin for the right size diameter slicks for mine. fyi about the rear springs. 1 leaf was tookin out on mine and heat treated for less arc. it squats pretty good but still have traction issues too. i dont get wheel hop ever. also my axle is from a 04 for some reason. sometin to do with fitting the rims on better i think. :dunno:
 

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What tire pressure you guys running?

In RE: I did see a regular cab 7.3 with 2 HUGE logs in the bed and it weighed approx. 400 lbs to help with wheel hop. he also used them for sled pulling.
 

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What u talkin bout willis
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DIRK IF YOU NEED SOME RIMS I GOT SOME 16.5 RIMS THAT ARE 10" WIDE ILL LET YA GET FOR A DECENT PRICE

BUILD SOME TRAC BARS
GET A LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL
 

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I've been racing my 2WD OBS CC DRW for over 2 years. Since I didn't want to modify the silky smooth ride (yeah, right), I have avoided putting traction bars on it. My solution for the moment is to use spring clamps on the front halves of the leaf packs, and to launch barely off idle. This requires deep staging to allow me to leave at my "comfortable" spot on the tree, which slows the truck even more. Good thing it's bracket racing!

As far as tires, I needed a load range E tire since the primary job of my truck is to haul my camper &/or race car. I ended up with Bridgestone Desert Dueller Revo AT tires, which have been much stickier than the old Goodrich tires I had.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
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